I guess it's trial and error... Think I will cut it back like I said above... To 1/2 the amount I'm using now and then keep upping it until it negatively affects my mileage and then put a little less than that in.
Luvin' the tcw3
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Yes, maybe that was the problem. I've been reading the "Been testing" thread on LS1.com. Sarge seems like a nice guy who really wants to help. He's very knowledgeable without being condescending, and he thoroughly answers all questions. If that's his picture in the avatar, he looks like a cross between Sam Elliot and Tommy Chong.
That is tommy chong... Some people on the Ls1 forums don't get it either. I post there. Okay, I ran a few tanks w/o oil, and like I mentioned before it smelled like an old well tuned vehicle. Good smell imo. Now with tcw-3 the smell is greatly reduced. It seems like a pretty drastic change to me.
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
With the cheap Super Tech brand I recommend 500:1, since it has more solvents in it than oil, but with other name brands I recommend 640:1
The Pennzoil Full Synthetic stuff is so stout that I think we might even be able to cut back to 750:1
Are you saying that I'm "overkilling" using the PZ syn TC-W3 at 400:1? May well be so -- I don't have enough experience either way. But hey, I love the smell of the stuff. Maybe I should just snort half of what I've been putting in my gas. . .
With the cheap Super Tech brand I recommend 500:1, since it has more solvents in it than oil, but with other name brands I recommend 640:1
The Pennzoil Full Synthetic stuff is so stout that I think we might even be able to cut back to 750:1
Are you saying that I'm "overkilling" using the PZ syn TC-W3 at 400:1? May well be so -- I don't have enough experience either way. But hey, I love the smell of the stuff. Maybe I should just snort half of what I've been putting in my gas. . .
As long as your car is running fine, starting fine, and getting good fuel mileage, then 400:1 appears to be working for you.
Are these 2C oils safe for short city driving? I have a 5 mile commute, 4 cylinder, and near zero weather conditions during the day. Sometimes my water temp needle never reaches the middle of the scale.
What do people think... are these conditions good for a UCL like PZ TC-W3? Or should I just use a leaner dilution to avoid any negative effects?
I'm currently on my second tank of MMO at the recommended 4 ounces for every 10 gallons.
What do people think... are these conditions good for a UCL like PZ TC-W3? Or should I just use a leaner dilution to avoid any negative effects?
I'm currently on my second tank of MMO at the recommended 4 ounces for every 10 gallons.
Originally Posted By: sunfire
Are these 2C oils safe for short city driving? I have a 5 mile commute, 4 cylinder, and near zero weather conditions during the day. Sometimes my water temp needle never reaches the middle of the scale.
What do people think... are these conditions good for a UCL like PZ TC-W3? Or should I just use a leaner dilution to avoid any negative effects?
I'm currently on my second tank of MMO at the recommended 4 ounces for every 10 gallons.
I've tried MMO TCW3 and Lucas UCL. Of the three I like MMO the best, with TCW3 a close second place.
Under the driving conditions you are doing I would use a UCL. That thin film of oil left behind will certainly help reduce engine wear on cold restarts. An added bonus is MMO is good at cleaning up carbon deposits and keeping a clean combustion chamber clean. Take your pick of any of the three.
Are these 2C oils safe for short city driving? I have a 5 mile commute, 4 cylinder, and near zero weather conditions during the day. Sometimes my water temp needle never reaches the middle of the scale.
What do people think... are these conditions good for a UCL like PZ TC-W3? Or should I just use a leaner dilution to avoid any negative effects?
I'm currently on my second tank of MMO at the recommended 4 ounces for every 10 gallons.
I've tried MMO TCW3 and Lucas UCL. Of the three I like MMO the best, with TCW3 a close second place.
Under the driving conditions you are doing I would use a UCL. That thin film of oil left behind will certainly help reduce engine wear on cold restarts. An added bonus is MMO is good at cleaning up carbon deposits and keeping a clean combustion chamber clean. Take your pick of any of the three.
Originally Posted By: sunfire
Are these 2C oils safe for short city driving? I have a 5 mile commute, 4 cylinder, and near zero weather conditions during the day. Sometimes my water temp needle never reaches the middle of the scale.
...Or should I just use a leaner dilution to avoid any negative effects?
That is an interesting question. Since none of us have done an actual scientific test, non of us can really say for sure. I don't think it will damage your engine, but it would be better if the engine was hot to get complete combustion of the TC oil. I think the TC oil would benefit the gasoline that stays in your tank for a long period. I read that TC oil acts a little like a fuel stabilizer; keeping your gas fresh longer.
Are these 2C oils safe for short city driving? I have a 5 mile commute, 4 cylinder, and near zero weather conditions during the day. Sometimes my water temp needle never reaches the middle of the scale.
...Or should I just use a leaner dilution to avoid any negative effects?
That is an interesting question. Since none of us have done an actual scientific test, non of us can really say for sure. I don't think it will damage your engine, but it would be better if the engine was hot to get complete combustion of the TC oil. I think the TC oil would benefit the gasoline that stays in your tank for a long period. I read that TC oil acts a little like a fuel stabilizer; keeping your gas fresh longer.
hi guys, i am very tempted to try adding 2 cycle oil on my Toyota Yaris. However, its difficult to find something with TCW3 rating overhere in Singapore. Is it fine with 2 cycle oil with Jaso FD rating instead? any comment?
TCW3 is the best choice, it is ashless, most 2 cycle oils are not. I'd try and find TCW3, MMO, or be 100% certain the 2 cycle oil you plan on using is ashless. JMO
This is all good information, but has little if anything to do with burning it as a very low concentration fuel add in a 4-cycle engine:
Originally Posted By: tenderloin
Two-Stroke Oil Ratings
Even today, there continues to be a huge number of questions regarding which oil is the one to use, which oil is better than another, and which oil is good enough. Let’s review the two-stroke lubricant standards; API TC; TCW; TC-W2; TC-W3; JASO FC; and ISO-L-EGD.
Non-racing two-stroke oils are usually given ratings from the API (American Petroleum Institute) “TCâ€, the BIA (Boating Industry Association) “TC-W†and currently the NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) “TC-W2 and TC-W3â€. The TC, TC-W and TCW2 standards are not current and do not meet the standards of today’s performance engines.
For a lubricant to receive one of these ratings it must pass certain levels of cleanliness and film strength. The lubricant is run at ratios up to 150:1 for specified times and loads. The engine is then examined for carbon deposits and for bearing and cylinder wear. If it meets the test criteria, the lubricant passes.
The Japanese Automobile Manufacturers Organization (JASO) developed a series of tests aimed at presenting more real-world conditions that a lubricant used in a motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV or PWC would encounter in use by consumers. They test for exhaust valve cleanliness, lubricity, exhaust smoke/blocking and initial torque. The highest JASO standard is FC. These tests are very difficult to pass and are a better indicator of a lubricants level of protection and performance that TC-W3 in non-marine applications.
European engine manufacturers tested TC-W3 and JASO lubricants and determined that their engines needed a cleaner lubricant and one that would withstand higher heat conditions. They established the ISO international standards for two stroke engine lubricants. Their first standard, ISO-L-EGB was comparable to the JASO FB standard. They later developed the ISO-L-EGC which is similar to the JASO FC rating.
They felt they needed an even tougher standard for the newest generation of performance two stroke engines. The ISO-L-EGD+ was created to establish a higher standard of detergency and ability to withstand higher levels of heat. The new test runs for 3 hours vs 1 hour for the previous test.
If a lubricant is certified ISO-L-EGD+ it has passed the most stringent tests set by American, Japanese and European engine manufacturers. Polaris recommends TC-W3 lubricants, Yamaha JASO FC and Ski-Doo/Sea-Doo requires ISO-L-EDG+ lubricants.
Examine the oil bottle of any oil in question and see what the highest level of certification is. It is generally accepted that if you use a lubricant that meets the ISO-L-EGD+ standard in your new snowmobile you will provide certified warranty compliance and protection.
Originally Posted By: tenderloin
Two-Stroke Oil Ratings
Even today, there continues to be a huge number of questions regarding which oil is the one to use, which oil is better than another, and which oil is good enough. Let’s review the two-stroke lubricant standards; API TC; TCW; TC-W2; TC-W3; JASO FC; and ISO-L-EGD.
Non-racing two-stroke oils are usually given ratings from the API (American Petroleum Institute) “TCâ€, the BIA (Boating Industry Association) “TC-W†and currently the NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) “TC-W2 and TC-W3â€. The TC, TC-W and TCW2 standards are not current and do not meet the standards of today’s performance engines.
For a lubricant to receive one of these ratings it must pass certain levels of cleanliness and film strength. The lubricant is run at ratios up to 150:1 for specified times and loads. The engine is then examined for carbon deposits and for bearing and cylinder wear. If it meets the test criteria, the lubricant passes.
The Japanese Automobile Manufacturers Organization (JASO) developed a series of tests aimed at presenting more real-world conditions that a lubricant used in a motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV or PWC would encounter in use by consumers. They test for exhaust valve cleanliness, lubricity, exhaust smoke/blocking and initial torque. The highest JASO standard is FC. These tests are very difficult to pass and are a better indicator of a lubricants level of protection and performance that TC-W3 in non-marine applications.
European engine manufacturers tested TC-W3 and JASO lubricants and determined that their engines needed a cleaner lubricant and one that would withstand higher heat conditions. They established the ISO international standards for two stroke engine lubricants. Their first standard, ISO-L-EGB was comparable to the JASO FB standard. They later developed the ISO-L-EGC which is similar to the JASO FC rating.
They felt they needed an even tougher standard for the newest generation of performance two stroke engines. The ISO-L-EGD+ was created to establish a higher standard of detergency and ability to withstand higher levels of heat. The new test runs for 3 hours vs 1 hour for the previous test.
If a lubricant is certified ISO-L-EGD+ it has passed the most stringent tests set by American, Japanese and European engine manufacturers. Polaris recommends TC-W3 lubricants, Yamaha JASO FC and Ski-Doo/Sea-Doo requires ISO-L-EDG+ lubricants.
Examine the oil bottle of any oil in question and see what the highest level of certification is. It is generally accepted that if you use a lubricant that meets the ISO-L-EGD+ standard in your new snowmobile you will provide certified warranty compliance and protection.
yes, i know, but MMO n 2 cycle oil with TCW3 rating is smthing i cant find in Singapore. thats Y i was thinking to use 2 cycle oil with Jaso FD rating.
Do you fellow posters add the mix of TCW-3 before you fill up or after you fill up at the gas pump? If you add it after the fill up what is the benefit vs before the fill up?
Curious as to when the straight TCW-3 or mixed combination is added to your fuel tanks. Thanks.
Curious as to when the straight TCW-3 or mixed combination is added to your fuel tanks. Thanks.
I dump it into the tank before, so the fuel mixes the 2C as it gets pumped in.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I dump it into the tank before, so the fuel mixes the 2C as it gets pumped in.
+1
That's what I do.
I dump it into the tank before, so the fuel mixes the 2C as it gets pumped in.
+1
That's what I do.
Originally Posted By: tigershark1976
hi guys, i am very tempted to try adding 2 cycle oil on my Toyota Yaris. However, its difficult to find something with TCW3 rating overhere in Singapore. Is it fine with 2 cycle oil with Jaso FD rating instead? any comment?
Yes, it is OK to use. In the dose you will be using, you probably wont notice any difference. There is no such thing as 100% ashless 2C oil. All 2C oil produces ash.
http://www.ultralighthomepage.com/OIL/oil.html
http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm
hi guys, i am very tempted to try adding 2 cycle oil on my Toyota Yaris. However, its difficult to find something with TCW3 rating overhere in Singapore. Is it fine with 2 cycle oil with Jaso FD rating instead? any comment?
Yes, it is OK to use. In the dose you will be using, you probably wont notice any difference. There is no such thing as 100% ashless 2C oil. All 2C oil produces ash.
http://www.ultralighthomepage.com/OIL/oil.html
http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm
Originally Posted By: Trajan
Originally Posted By: Kaie
Is there a specific TC-W3 people are using? or just anything cheap at the store?
So long as it's TC-W3, doesn't matter.
+1. I just use Castrol Super Outboard as its cheap and I like the half liter bottles it comes in. I'm liking the combination of MMO & TC-W3 I'm using. I only recently started using them together, so I'm still tweaking the ratio. 3 ounces of MMO and 1 ounce of TC-W3 to 10 gallons seems to produce the best effect, for me, so far.
Edit: I rely on my Scangauge, the feel of the car, and my ears for feedback on the tweaking process. The addition of TC-W3, in this amount, to MMO produces in my engine a smoother sound and mileage looks good on the Scangauge. I'm also used to reading the ignition timing off it along with rpm, as that's good real time feedback, and all the numbers look good while the TC-W3 seems to smooth the engine acoustics.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: Kaie
Is there a specific TC-W3 people are using? or just anything cheap at the store?
So long as it's TC-W3, doesn't matter.
+1. I just use Castrol Super Outboard as its cheap and I like the half liter bottles it comes in. I'm liking the combination of MMO & TC-W3 I'm using. I only recently started using them together, so I'm still tweaking the ratio. 3 ounces of MMO and 1 ounce of TC-W3 to 10 gallons seems to produce the best effect, for me, so far.
Edit: I rely on my Scangauge, the feel of the car, and my ears for feedback on the tweaking process. The addition of TC-W3, in this amount, to MMO produces in my engine a smoother sound and mileage looks good on the Scangauge. I'm also used to reading the ignition timing off it along with rpm, as that's good real time feedback, and all the numbers look good while the TC-W3 seems to smooth the engine acoustics.
-Spyder
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