I know, to each their own...nothing like some rib poking though...
Look at doing a Bypass on my 6.0, Q's...
- Thread starter Toy4x4runner
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Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
If your hose doesn't sport one of the numbers you see in the above link ..then you've probably got a 212F rating at EXTREME pressure (by automotive standards).
I have gates hose...and the stuff listed in your link.
And I thought you, of all people, wouldn't be surprised at what one can obtain from ebay...
Looks like we're in real time here.
There's nothing wrong with using the lower temp hose at the way lower pressure. When most go to a hydraulic shop to have lines made up ..that's typically what they get; 212F rated hose. I used the stuff in a few of my projects due to off the shelf costs over other offerings. You can chew up 30 feet of hose pretty quickly especially if you're doing lots of varied length connections.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
If your hose doesn't sport one of the numbers you see in the above link ..then you've probably got a 212F rating at EXTREME pressure (by automotive standards).
I have gates hose...and the stuff listed in your link.
And I thought you, of all people, wouldn't be surprised at what one can obtain from ebay...
Looks like we're in real time here.
There's nothing wrong with using the lower temp hose at the way lower pressure. When most go to a hydraulic shop to have lines made up ..that's typically what they get; 212F rated hose. I used the stuff in a few of my projects due to off the shelf costs over other offerings. You can chew up 30 feet of hose pretty quickly especially if you're doing lots of varied length connections.
One thing to remember, regarding the 212*F number, is the fact that this hose is rated at 1kpsi, 2kpsi, 4kpsi at 212*F...not that 212*F is a magic failure point. I think the temperature rating of the hose would "increase" (within reason) at lower pressures...
And again, I have been running this particular hose for around a year and a half...before that, I had some generic hydraulic hose on for almost two years with the Amsoil setup with no issues other than it was not weather resistant (outer sheath weather checked). I have amassed over 125k miles on hydraulic hose with no ill effect...
And again, I have been running this particular hose for around a year and a half...before that, I had some generic hydraulic hose on for almost two years with the Amsoil setup with no issues other than it was not weather resistant (outer sheath weather checked). I have amassed over 125k miles on hydraulic hose with no ill effect...
Ok, I could careless about the Hose discussion. (just behing honest). More interested in which oil filter unit is best. and the GC is HUGE. no way.
FS-2500, KleenOil, PuraDyn and Amsoil are my choices. Looking for the best filtering unit. I'll worry about hoses and such after I pick the unit.
FS-2500, KleenOil, PuraDyn and Amsoil are my choices. Looking for the best filtering unit. I'll worry about hoses and such after I pick the unit.
What, no oilguard?
eh who knows. I'm not sure of any of them. I can't believe theres no one that is outstanding, or favored. Like I said I like the cartridge kind, not the full spin on filter type. I guess any of the brands will work better than none.
I have an Oil Guard and think it's grand. Get whichever one floats your boat as they will all filter mucho better than the stocker.
I was being serious about the oilguard...its a canister, well made, and very efficient...
Until I got my GCF, I was leaning heavy towards one...
Until I got my GCF, I was leaning heavy towards one...
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
You'll get used to that rhetoric from SteveS. I really do say this with a smile on my face ..a big one, but I'd hardly go on a turbo charger site just to tell all of the road racers that they're wasting their time and should drive slower.
But my retoric is based on facts not speculative wants and ideas. other than on commercial equipment how many engines wear out that have been properly maintained ? mechanical trouble will occur bypass or not. Wrecking yoads are full of running engines pulled from worn out chassis and wrecked cars.
You'll get used to that rhetoric from SteveS. I really do say this with a smile on my face ..a big one, but I'd hardly go on a turbo charger site just to tell all of the road racers that they're wasting their time and should drive slower.
But my retoric is based on facts not speculative wants and ideas. other than on commercial equipment how many engines wear out that have been properly maintained ? mechanical trouble will occur bypass or not. Wrecking yoads are full of running engines pulled from worn out chassis and wrecked cars.
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Originally Posted By: Steve S
You probably won't wear out the engine without a bypass so why install one.
Because I can??? Do you need a reason?
want is a reason . good or bad.I would then get an Amsoil kit , a great bang for the buck.
Originally Posted By: Steve S
You probably won't wear out the engine without a bypass so why install one.
Because I can??? Do you need a reason?
want is a reason . good or bad.I would then get an Amsoil kit , a great bang for the buck.
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Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
You'll get used to that rhetoric from SteveS. I really do say this with a smile on my face ..a big one, but I'd hardly go on a turbo charger site just to tell all of the road racers that they're wasting their time and should drive slower.
But my retoric is based on facts not speculative wants and ideas. other than on commercial equipment how many engines wear out that have been properly maintained ? mechanical trouble will occur bypass or not. Wrecking yoads are full of running engines pulled from worn out chassis and wrecked cars.
Steve. No one that doesn't have a OEM turbo "needs" a turbo. Fact. They need a different car. In FACT, most that have them don't even need them. Most that own pickup trucks don't need them either ..and that's a fact. SUV'S ..McMansions ...Ipods ..surely cellphones ..text messaging... No one needs a steak ..no one needs a fitted suit. No one needs anything but the daily adult requirement outlined by the AMA (or whomever they quote).
That's all based on "fact". All you should need is a stone knife and a bear skin and you should be good to go.
None of that is speculation ..it's fact. The archeological dig sights have plenty of examples that humans lived in the past with just those implements. Fact!!
Shall I remind you of that daily with every post that I make??
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
You'll get used to that rhetoric from SteveS. I really do say this with a smile on my face ..a big one, but I'd hardly go on a turbo charger site just to tell all of the road racers that they're wasting their time and should drive slower.
But my retoric is based on facts not speculative wants and ideas. other than on commercial equipment how many engines wear out that have been properly maintained ? mechanical trouble will occur bypass or not. Wrecking yoads are full of running engines pulled from worn out chassis and wrecked cars.
Steve. No one that doesn't have a OEM turbo "needs" a turbo. Fact. They need a different car. In FACT, most that have them don't even need them. Most that own pickup trucks don't need them either ..and that's a fact. SUV'S ..McMansions ...Ipods ..surely cellphones ..text messaging... No one needs a steak ..no one needs a fitted suit. No one needs anything but the daily adult requirement outlined by the AMA (or whomever they quote).
That's all based on "fact". All you should need is a stone knife and a bear skin and you should be good to go.
None of that is speculation ..it's fact. The archeological dig sights have plenty of examples that humans lived in the past with just those implements. Fact!!
Shall I remind you of that daily with every post that I make??
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Originally Posted By: deeter16317
One thing to remember, regarding the 212*F number, is the fact that this hose is rated at 1kpsi, 2kpsi, 4kpsi at 212*F...not that 212*F is a magic failure point. I :
And again, I have been running this particular hose for around a year and a half...before that, I had some generic hydraulic hose on for almost two years with the Amsoil setup with no issues other than it was not weather resistant (outer sheath weather checked). I have amassed over 125k miles on hydraulic hose with no ill effect...
I see
you're singing to the preacher
Yes, pressure ratings are at temp. 6" schedule 40 (iirc) CPVC pipe has a burst strength of 570lbs
.....@ 70F
It degrades quickly as you approach 200F.
One thing to remember, regarding the 212*F number, is the fact that this hose is rated at 1kpsi, 2kpsi, 4kpsi at 212*F...not that 212*F is a magic failure point. I :
And again, I have been running this particular hose for around a year and a half...before that, I had some generic hydraulic hose on for almost two years with the Amsoil setup with no issues other than it was not weather resistant (outer sheath weather checked). I have amassed over 125k miles on hydraulic hose with no ill effect...
I see
Yes, pressure ratings are at temp. 6" schedule 40 (iirc) CPVC pipe has a burst strength of 570lbs
YEP!
Though anything can be rationalized
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Originally Posted By: Toy4x4runner
Ok, I could careless about the Hose discussion. (just behing honest). More interested in which oil filter unit is best. and the GC is HUGE. no way.
FS-2500, KleenOil, PuraDyn and Amsoil are my choices. Looking for the best filtering unit. I'll worry about hoses and such after I pick the unit.
The best? Elusive answer. In filtration? Short of a centrifuge?
Get a motor guard and change the tp every 3k. $0.50 filter changes. The sacrifice is longevity.
You can make your own depending on how your room is setup. You can even have custom micron ratings built to your spec if you look around a bit. 9" elements ...20" elements ...all cotton wound and ss center cores. This splits the tp and the spin-on deal. You just need room for (about) 14x4" cylinder or a 24x5" cylinder. Hoses are your choice for the hook up.
Page 359-361 at www.mcmaster.com
Ok, I could careless about the Hose discussion. (just behing honest). More interested in which oil filter unit is best. and the GC is HUGE. no way.
FS-2500, KleenOil, PuraDyn and Amsoil are my choices. Looking for the best filtering unit. I'll worry about hoses and such after I pick the unit.
The best? Elusive answer. In filtration? Short of a centrifuge?
Get a motor guard and change the tp every 3k. $0.50 filter changes. The sacrifice is longevity.
You can make your own depending on how your room is setup. You can even have custom micron ratings built to your spec if you look around a bit. 9" elements ...20" elements ...all cotton wound and ss center cores. This splits the tp and the spin-on deal. You just need room for (about) 14x4" cylinder or a 24x5" cylinder. Hoses are your choice for the hook up.
Page 359-361 at www.mcmaster.com
I need an oem turbo cause it does good things I never will realize the benefits of a bypass filter though. I use a pickup to haul a trailor and hay. I have no use for an suv though.
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Originally Posted By: Steve S
I need an oem turbo cause it does good things I never will realize the benefits of a bypass filter though.
Can't you get there far cheaper in another car without a turbo? All that wear and tear on your engine. No need to spend the extra money when a bicycle or a good pair of sneakers and some careful timing of your commuting event can't cure
I need an oem turbo cause it does good things I never will realize the benefits of a bypass filter though.
Can't you get there far cheaper in another car without a turbo? All that wear and tear on your engine. No need to spend the extra money when a bicycle or a good pair of sneakers and some careful timing of your commuting event can't cure
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And you'll never be able to take that turbo with you. This is the end. My only friend, the end.
In the end, we meet our fate together.
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With a turbo you get there just faster.
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