Long OCI

Wow, you’ve got yourself the cheapest costs all around. Nice job.
Thanks. I
Wow, you’ve got yourself the cheapest costs all around. Nice job.
I try to only buy Walmart store brands for everything. Saves me hundreds of dollars a month which I then just put into investments for long term savings. When it comes to all expenses (including oil changes), my thinking is: Why pay too much for anything (whether it's food, fuel, car repairs, oil, etc, etc, etc), cause 5 years from now, the only thing that will matter is how much you saved.
 
My oil change cost is:

Oil: $17.98 SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 @ 18.98 - $1.00 for 5% discount of Walmart credit card.
Filter: $3.50: Fram Extra Guard 7317 (95% Efficiency @ > 20 microns) from Amazon subscribe and save.
Labor: $16 at local tire place to do the oil change with my oil and filter.

Total price 37.48 + tax.
It would only be: $21.48 + tax if I did the oil change myself.

Why not just grab a Supertech oil filter as well while you're at Walmart instead of ordering on Amazon? Isn't the Supertech filter still around $3?
 
I fail to see where he made a blanket statement.
I was agreeing with dnewton. He stated that there are multiple factors that should be taken into consideration when determining an appropriate OCI and I agree. Then I made a general statement that as a culture we like to generalize situations and put firm rules on situations that shouldn't have firm rules.
 
Toyota = 5K, Malibu = 7.5K, Hyundai = 6 months.

I just keep things simple and do the oil changes when it is time to do other things like tire rotations and general inspections or based on the severe schedule. It’s just easier for me that way.

Could I extend it, sure. Could I shorten it, sure. Would either change anything in an impactful or meaningful way, doubtful.
 
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I got everyone beat. Yearly oil changes at clearance Shell Rotella 0w20 and Mobil One oil filter. That is less than 10.00 so in 6 years 60.00 spent on oil changes. 😆
 
I got everyone beat. Yearly oil changes at clearance Shell Rotella 0w20 and Mobil One oil filter. That is less than 10.00 so in 6 years 60.00 spent on oil changes. 😆

How did you possibly get the oil AND that M1 oil filter for under $10? The filter alone is usually more than that.
 
How did you possibly get the oil AND that M1 oil filter for under $10? The filter alone is usually more than that.
Bought filters at Walmart for under 3.00 on clearance, so I bought all they had for my van. The oil was 1.00 a quart at Tractor supply on clearance however, all they left was 0w20 so I bought all they had. 6.00 for oil and 3.00 for filter.
 
Whether it's a socket set, a computer or a car, I believe in taking care of the tool. I leased a 2103 Accord LX Sport, and serviced it with M1 every 5K, or less.
Our 2006 TSX has about 120K and I would drive it anywhere and not even check the oil level. I just put a set of Michelin Sport A/S tires on it. Do I overdo it? Perhaps, but I have never been sorry I have erred on the side of quality.
I’m not sure if I can believe this, I mean a 2103 Accord sport…… 😜
 
Bought filters at Walmart for under 3.00 on clearance, so I bought all they had for my van. The oil was 1.00 a quart at Tractor supply on clearance however, all they left was 0w20 so I bought all they had. 6.00 for oil and 3.00 for filter.

That's a nice score! I never see deals like that up here :cry:
 
I have a ~100 mile commute a day with a direct-injected turbo engine. I do 8-10k intervals.

1, at 5000 miles I'd be changing oil roughly once every other month.

2, I've had enough UOAs done to be perfectly fine running good oil/filter to 10k in this car.

3, if doing 5k OCIs vs 10k OCIs gets me an extra 100k on the engine, at that point (400-500k) I'm going to be spending or have spent a significant amount of money on other things due to age/wear (suspension, belt drive components, transmission) to make it likely not financially viable to continue driving the car vs buying a new one.

4, a 3k OCI interval is a non-starter unless it's for a very specific application (race engine), desperate PM for a H/K, or drives are so infrequent and short (condensation and fuel dilution) I should be riding a bike instead.
 
Why not just grab a Supertech oil filter as well while you're at Walmart instead of ordering on Amazon? Isn't the Supertech filter still around $3?
Thanks for that idea. I checked Walmart's website.

The SuperTech filter ST6607 filter fits my application. It's $3.84. It says its Efficiency is 99%, but it doesn't state at how many microns that efficiency is measured.

For compariosn, the the Fram ExtraGuard PH7317 @ 3.50 with Amazon subscribe and save.
The Fram has 95%+ efficiency @ > 20 microns.

 
Thanks for that idea. I checked Walmart's website.

The SuperTech filter ST6607 filter fits my application. It's $3.84. It says its Efficiency is 99%, but it doesn't state at how many microns that efficiency is measured.

For compariosn, the the Fram ExtraGuard PH7317 @ 3.50 with Amazon subscribe and save.
The Fram has 95%+ efficiency @ > 20 microns.

Supertech Oil Filters have been typically 99%@30 micron. So from a cost and efficiency standpoint, the Fram from Amazon is the better option.
 
I was agreeing with dnewton. He stated that there are multiple factors that should be taken into consideration when determining an appropriate OCI and I agree. Then I made a general statement that as a culture we like to generalize situations and put firm rules on situations that shouldn't have firm rules.
The impression it gives is that he had made a blanket statement. Anyways... 👍
 
I have four 3rd gen Honda Odyssey EX-L's. I really like that generation, and they are very luxurious 8 pasenger minivan's and are so cheap on the used car market. I like to think of them as the most luxury per $1 spent.

I plan to keep them for many years to come. So I cleaned out the engines with 3 cycles of:
[Solvent based engine flush, followed by 1 quart HPL EC30 + 3.5 quarts regular full synthetic oil]
for 3 consecutive 4,000 mile OCI's.

Now I'm just doing 4,000 mile / 6 month OCI (whichever comes first) with a low priced full synthetic that has either the Dexos 1 Gen 3 (or Euro MB 229.5x) approval with a HTHS > 3.1. My only concern is internal engine cleanliness. A clean engine with frequent oil changes and clean internals should be able to go 300k miles. I decided I don't want to deal with sludge, varnish, stuck piston rings, groves in cylinder walls, oil burning etc on any car I ever own. So I never go past 4k miles with full synthetic HTHS > 3.1 oil.

UOA's don't capture sludge/varnish accumulation, and the wear metal readings are always within the statistical deviation (margin of error) of the test.
One thing good about a UOA, can verify water in the oil,
 
Just buy a car that calls for 5k oil changes. Then nobody can tell you that you change it too much 😎
 
Extended oil changes are not always fatal to engines. My friend retired about a year ago. His drive to work was about 75 miles each way, for a total of 150 miles minimum per day. He made that ride for 30 years. Never had an engine problem from it. He would change cars every few years, due to them being lease vehicles. He told me he may have changed toil 2 maybe 3 time per year. Mainly because he didn't want to waste time sitting around a garage. He must have did this with at least 10 vehicles, of different makes and models. He wasn't particular what oils the garage put in the cars, or what filter they used. If it was only one brand of vehicle he owned , people would say that's only one case. But he had a car from every US mfgr, and the results were the same. Now that he bought a car he really likes, he still doesn't think changing oil often, is a necessary thing to do.,,
 
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