He could have also saved $16 on labor by DIYWow, you’ve got yourself the cheapest costs all around. Nice job.
He could have also saved $16 on labor by DIYWow, you’ve got yourself the cheapest costs all around. Nice job.
Thanks. IWow, you’ve got yourself the cheapest costs all around. Nice job.
I try to only buy Walmart store brands for everything. Saves me hundreds of dollars a month which I then just put into investments for long term savings. When it comes to all expenses (including oil changes), my thinking is: Why pay too much for anything (whether it's food, fuel, car repairs, oil, etc, etc, etc), cause 5 years from now, the only thing that will matter is how much you saved.Wow, you’ve got yourself the cheapest costs all around. Nice job.
Yeah, but not everyone can change their oil themselves. And not every shop is willing to change oil for you for $16 bucks (and let you bring in your own stuff), so I’d say the guy is doing pretty darn good overall.He could have also saved $16 on labor by DIY
My oil change cost is:
Oil: $17.98 SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 @ 18.98 - $1.00 for 5% discount of Walmart credit card.
Filter: $3.50: Fram Extra Guard 7317 (95% Efficiency @ > 20 microns) from Amazon subscribe and save.
Labor: $16 at local tire place to do the oil change with my oil and filter.
Total price 37.48 + tax.
It would only be: $21.48 + tax if I did the oil change myself.
I was agreeing with dnewton. He stated that there are multiple factors that should be taken into consideration when determining an appropriate OCI and I agree. Then I made a general statement that as a culture we like to generalize situations and put firm rules on situations that shouldn't have firm rules.I fail to see where he made a blanket statement.
I got everyone beat. Yearly oil changes at clearance Shell Rotella 0w20 and Mobil One oil filter. That is less than 10.00 so in 6 years 60.00 spent on oil changes.
Bought filters at Walmart for under 3.00 on clearance, so I bought all they had for my van. The oil was 1.00 a quart at Tractor supply on clearance however, all they left was 0w20 so I bought all they had. 6.00 for oil and 3.00 for filter.How did you possibly get the oil AND that M1 oil filter for under $10? The filter alone is usually more than that.
I’m not sure if I can believe this, I mean a 2103 Accord sport……Whether it's a socket set, a computer or a car, I believe in taking care of the tool. I leased a 2103 Accord LX Sport, and serviced it with M1 every 5K, or less.
Our 2006 TSX has about 120K and I would drive it anywhere and not even check the oil level. I just put a set of Michelin Sport A/S tires on it. Do I overdo it? Perhaps, but I have never been sorry I have erred on the side of quality.
Bought filters at Walmart for under 3.00 on clearance, so I bought all they had for my van. The oil was 1.00 a quart at Tractor supply on clearance however, all they left was 0w20 so I bought all they had. 6.00 for oil and 3.00 for filter.
Thanks for that idea. I checked Walmart's website.Why not just grab a Supertech oil filter as well while you're at Walmart instead of ordering on Amazon? Isn't the Supertech filter still around $3?
Supertech Oil Filters have been typically 99%@30 micron. So from a cost and efficiency standpoint, the Fram from Amazon is the better option.Thanks for that idea. I checked Walmart's website.
The SuperTech filter ST6607 filter fits my application. It's $3.84. It says its Efficiency is 99%, but it doesn't state at how many microns that efficiency is measured.
For compariosn, the the Fram ExtraGuard PH7317 @ 3.50 with Amazon subscribe and save.
The Fram has 95%+ efficiency @ > 20 microns.
The impression it gives is that he had made a blanket statement. Anyways...I was agreeing with dnewton. He stated that there are multiple factors that should be taken into consideration when determining an appropriate OCI and I agree. Then I made a general statement that as a culture we like to generalize situations and put firm rules on situations that shouldn't have firm rules.
Goodness at 80 how do I ever manage?Yeah, but not everyone can change their oil themselves. And not every shop is willing to change oil for you for $16 bucks (and let you bring in your own stuff), so I’d say the guy is doing pretty darn good overall.
I don’t know, share your secret.Goodness at 80 how do I ever manage?
One thing good about a UOA, can verify water in the oil,I have four 3rd gen Honda Odyssey EX-L's. I really like that generation, and they are very luxurious 8 pasenger minivan's and are so cheap on the used car market. I like to think of them as the most luxury per $1 spent.
I plan to keep them for many years to come. So I cleaned out the engines with 3 cycles of:
[Solvent based engine flush, followed by 1 quart HPL EC30 + 3.5 quarts regular full synthetic oil]
for 3 consecutive 4,000 mile OCI's.
Now I'm just doing 4,000 mile / 6 month OCI (whichever comes first) with a low priced full synthetic that has either the Dexos 1 Gen 3 (or Euro MB 229.5x) approval with a HTHS > 3.1. My only concern is internal engine cleanliness. A clean engine with frequent oil changes and clean internals should be able to go 300k miles. I decided I don't want to deal with sludge, varnish, stuck piston rings, groves in cylinder walls, oil burning etc on any car I ever own. So I never go past 4k miles with full synthetic HTHS > 3.1 oil.
UOA's don't capture sludge/varnish accumulation, and the wear metal readings are always within the statistical deviation (margin of error) of the test.