Yep 3/8 or even 1/4. Heat works well but like anything else you have to be careful, its not something i would play with on an aluminum manifold.
Kroil failed for me
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That my friend is something no one can tell you. Its an acquired feel. Set the impact on very low and let it hammer just a little, if that doesn't budge it try a socket or wrench.
The smaller the impact the better on small diameter bolts, a 1/4 cordless is ideal.
A 10mm head bolt, probably an M6 bolt will beak fairly easily so i wouldn't get too carried away.
I have a full set of rethreading tools, helicoils, time serts, left handed drills and all sorts of stuff and they get used often. Its all part of the business in the salt belt and in Germany (also the salt belt in southern Germany).
Anyone doing their own work i suggest owning these tools and learn how to use them properly. Practice and practice some more on old junk.
The smaller the impact the better on small diameter bolts, a 1/4 cordless is ideal.
A 10mm head bolt, probably an M6 bolt will beak fairly easily so i wouldn't get too carried away.
I have a full set of rethreading tools, helicoils, time serts, left handed drills and all sorts of stuff and they get used often. Its all part of the business in the salt belt and in Germany (also the salt belt in southern Germany).
Anyone doing their own work i suggest owning these tools and learn how to use them properly. Practice and practice some more on old junk.
Trav,
Those are actually 12mm headed nuts (2nd gen Odyssey EGR valve); still the same advice, correct? One of the nut seems to be more rusted than the other one.
You must be familiar with the EGR issues on this model; do you recall if you had to resort to anything out of ordinary on those nuts?
Those are actually 12mm headed nuts (2nd gen Odyssey EGR valve); still the same advice, correct? One of the nut seems to be more rusted than the other one.
You must be familiar with the EGR issues on this model; do you recall if you had to resort to anything out of ordinary on those nuts?
I'm not trying to put words in Trav's mouth, but I really doubt it. It's very seldom that I've ever had problems getting fasteners loose. Put a ratchet on it and give the handle a good sharp, heavy, jarring blow with your hand. It'll come loose and spin right off.
Tip: In my personal experience today's exhaust related fasteners tend to come off okay cold (as long as they're not rusted into oblivion), but VERY easy once heated to orange. O2 sensors on the other hand are best dealt with stone cold.
Tip: In my personal experience today's exhaust related fasteners tend to come off okay cold (as long as they're not rusted into oblivion), but VERY easy once heated to orange. O2 sensors on the other hand are best dealt with stone cold.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Trav,
Those are actually 12mm headed nuts (2nd gen Odyssey EGR valve); still the same advice, correct? One of the nut seems to be more rusted than the other one.
You must be familiar with the EGR issues on this model; do you recall if you had to resort to anything out of ordinary on those nuts?
I thought you had some 10mm head bolts that were frozen in there. The nuts are no problem, they come right off.
Trav,
Those are actually 12mm headed nuts (2nd gen Odyssey EGR valve); still the same advice, correct? One of the nut seems to be more rusted than the other one.
You must be familiar with the EGR issues on this model; do you recall if you had to resort to anything out of ordinary on those nuts?
I thought you had some 10mm head bolts that were frozen in there. The nuts are no problem, they come right off.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
I'm not trying to put words in Trav's mouth, but I really doubt it. It's very seldom that I've ever had problems getting fasteners loose. Put a ratchet on it and give the handle a good sharp, heavy, jarring blow with your hand. It'll come loose and spin right off.
Tip: In my personal experience today's exhaust related fasteners tend to come off okay cold (as long as they're not rusted into oblivion), but VERY easy once heated to orange. O2 sensors on the other hand are best dealt with stone cold.
In New England we have some serious problems with rust. It is very rare to get any bolts or nuts off an exhaust system that is more than a few years old.
In fact many rot off on their own (Ford F150 exhaust manifold studs). Rotted through oil pans are common, broken bolts in the block are common also. A smoke wrench is a must have here.
Stuff on top of the engine is usually no trouble though.
Since they started adding more chemicals to the salt mix its gotten much worse, it eats the cars alive. Most fasteners are as you say rusted to oblivion when the cars get older.
I'm not trying to put words in Trav's mouth, but I really doubt it. It's very seldom that I've ever had problems getting fasteners loose. Put a ratchet on it and give the handle a good sharp, heavy, jarring blow with your hand. It'll come loose and spin right off.
Tip: In my personal experience today's exhaust related fasteners tend to come off okay cold (as long as they're not rusted into oblivion), but VERY easy once heated to orange. O2 sensors on the other hand are best dealt with stone cold.
In New England we have some serious problems with rust. It is very rare to get any bolts or nuts off an exhaust system that is more than a few years old.
In fact many rot off on their own (Ford F150 exhaust manifold studs). Rotted through oil pans are common, broken bolts in the block are common also. A smoke wrench is a must have here.
Stuff on top of the engine is usually no trouble though.
Since they started adding more chemicals to the salt mix its gotten much worse, it eats the cars alive. Most fasteners are as you say rusted to oblivion when the cars get older.
It would be nice if they used higher quality bolts and nuts so they would not rust away to crumbly mess. Especially for the salt belt.
Yes it would. When i do an exhaust i use SS bolts or studs with copper nuts on the manifold connection.
Marine anti seize is a big help for future repairs on other parts.
Marine anti seize is a big help for future repairs on other parts.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Yes it would. When i do an exhaust i use SS bolts or studs with copper nuts on the manifold connection.
Marine anti seize is a big help for future repairs on other parts.
I hope your customers realize how lucky they are!
Yes it would. When i do an exhaust i use SS bolts or studs with copper nuts on the manifold connection.
Marine anti seize is a big help for future repairs on other parts.
I hope your customers realize how lucky they are!
I don't usually have a problem with the Odyssey EGR valve nuts, but often find the port in the intake clogged on these vehicles. Causes low flow.
Can require plenum removal. The later ones had a removable upper plate that has access to individual cylinder ports. Still need to check the passage through the lower to the upper from the EGR valve.
Can require plenum removal. The later ones had a removable upper plate that has access to individual cylinder ports. Still need to check the passage through the lower to the upper from the EGR valve.
Originally Posted By: wokeupdead
I don't usually have a problem with the Odyssey EGR valve nuts, but often find the port in the intake clogged on these vehicles. Causes low flow.
Can require plenum removal. The later ones had a removable upper plate that has access to individual cylinder ports. Still need to check the passage through the lower to the upper from the EGR valve.
I did the plenum removal work about 35K miles ago and that was the first time I had to do it on that van (at 180K) So I am assuming the plenum is probably not carboned up again that quickly. I have never touched the EGR valve in the 215K miles, so I am inclined to clean those ports first before taking off the plenum.
I don't usually have a problem with the Odyssey EGR valve nuts, but often find the port in the intake clogged on these vehicles. Causes low flow.
Can require plenum removal. The later ones had a removable upper plate that has access to individual cylinder ports. Still need to check the passage through the lower to the upper from the EGR valve.
I did the plenum removal work about 35K miles ago and that was the first time I had to do it on that van (at 180K) So I am assuming the plenum is probably not carboned up again that quickly. I have never touched the EGR valve in the 215K miles, so I am inclined to clean those ports first before taking off the plenum.
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