It's cleaning, slowly, that's good. Not sure MMO wouldn't have done as well over that period for far less cost, anyway you've got something working so keep plugging.
Kreen Experiences
- Thread starter LeakySeals
- Start date
- Status
Thanks for posting the update and the photo's Mea. It looks like it is cleaning up slowly, as others have pointed out.
Do you have the opportunity to get this vehicle on a open highway and drive it fast for a few hundred miles?
Maybe this is what your engine needs? A nice long highway run of oil and Kreen in the sump to get the mix flowing at a fast sustained speed.
With a clean oversize filter, IMO, you might derive the best benefit of the Kreen mix for a few hours run, at high speed, to get a very good cleaning.
That's how I ran my first Kreen treatment for 1K miles....and I hope to do one more Kreen treatment the same way, in the near future....while the weather is nice and cool. High speed, long distance driving for 1K miles seems to work well. Then change the oil, Filter and Kreen when its nice an "Hot" and all the fluid and dirt will drop out in a Fury once you open the drain plug.
Maybe Trav and the other Veterans of Kreen can give their suggestions......
Do you have the opportunity to get this vehicle on a open highway and drive it fast for a few hundred miles?
Maybe this is what your engine needs? A nice long highway run of oil and Kreen in the sump to get the mix flowing at a fast sustained speed.
With a clean oversize filter, IMO, you might derive the best benefit of the Kreen mix for a few hours run, at high speed, to get a very good cleaning.
That's how I ran my first Kreen treatment for 1K miles....and I hope to do one more Kreen treatment the same way, in the near future....while the weather is nice and cool. High speed, long distance driving for 1K miles seems to work well. Then change the oil, Filter and Kreen when its nice an "Hot" and all the fluid and dirt will drop out in a Fury once you open the drain plug.
Maybe Trav and the other Veterans of Kreen can give their suggestions......
Mongo, that is the formula for engine cleaning! Do it over a vacation trip, drop the oil when you come home! If not, plan it when you can get the engine good and hot and run it for trips lasting an hour or more, for 1000 miles or so.
Mongo: That is just what I did for the last two treatments. My first was at slow city driving with some highway. The second was mostly freeway. The third was mixed with mostly freeway but not very long trips. Fourth is due already.
Originally Posted By: mongo161
Thanks for posting the update and the photo's Mea. It looks like it is cleaning up slowly, as others have pointed out.
Do you have the opportunity to get this vehicle on a open highway and drive it fast for a few hundred miles?
Maybe this is what your engine needs? A nice long highway run of oil and Kreen in the sump to get the mix flowing at a fast sustained speed.
With a clean oversize filter, IMO, you might derive the best benefit of the Kreen mix for a few hours run, at high speed, to get a very good cleaning.
That's how I ran my first Kreen treatment for 1K miles....and I hope to do one more Kreen treatment the same way, in the near future....while the weather is nice and cool. High speed, long distance driving for 1K miles seems to work well. Then change the oil, Filter and Kreen when its nice an "Hot" and all the fluid and dirt will drop out in a Fury once you open the drain plug.
Maybe Trav and the other Veterans of Kreen can give their suggestions......
I agree 100%. This is what I did with my old Saturn + some high rev's in between and worked quite well.
Thanks for posting the update and the photo's Mea. It looks like it is cleaning up slowly, as others have pointed out.
Do you have the opportunity to get this vehicle on a open highway and drive it fast for a few hundred miles?
Maybe this is what your engine needs? A nice long highway run of oil and Kreen in the sump to get the mix flowing at a fast sustained speed.
With a clean oversize filter, IMO, you might derive the best benefit of the Kreen mix for a few hours run, at high speed, to get a very good cleaning.
That's how I ran my first Kreen treatment for 1K miles....and I hope to do one more Kreen treatment the same way, in the near future....while the weather is nice and cool. High speed, long distance driving for 1K miles seems to work well. Then change the oil, Filter and Kreen when its nice an "Hot" and all the fluid and dirt will drop out in a Fury once you open the drain plug.
Maybe Trav and the other Veterans of Kreen can give their suggestions......
I agree 100%. This is what I did with my old Saturn + some high rev's in between and worked quite well.
To be honest i'm not seeing the results on Mea's engine either.
I think the problem is the high temperatures he lives in combined with engine heat is just flashing most of the solvents off before it can work.
This product being a solvent and doesn't need high revs or long drives to be effective, in fact cooler temps and shorter runs where it stays in the engine longer is probably best for internal cleaning.
I think the problem is the high temperatures he lives in combined with engine heat is just flashing most of the solvents off before it can work.
This product being a solvent and doesn't need high revs or long drives to be effective, in fact cooler temps and shorter runs where it stays in the engine longer is probably best for internal cleaning.
I may have said this. I used Kreen on my BMW after 2-3 auto-RX treatment and MMO use. During this time I did oil changes every 3,500 to 5,000 miles with synthentic and conventional oils over a period of at least 50,000 miles. I still had varnish and a lifter tic. This car now has over 200,000 miles on it.
After I used kreen, It still has the varnish but the lifter tic appears to be gone. I am a believer in Kreen. However the smell of it is almost enough to scare you from using it.
After I used kreen, It still has the varnish but the lifter tic appears to be gone. I am a believer in Kreen. However the smell of it is almost enough to scare you from using it.
Getting the varnish out of the mechanical components like , lash adjusters, cam chain tensioner etc is the important thing.
Sometimes the varnish is in the pores of the aluminum and may never appear to go away completely.
Sometimes the varnish is in the pores of the aluminum and may never appear to go away completely.
Originally Posted By: Trav
To be honest i'm not seeing the results on Mea's engine either.
I think the problem is the high temperatures he lives in combined with engine heat is just flashing most of the solvents off before it can work.
This product being a solvent and doesn't need high revs or long drives to be effective, in fact cooler temps and shorter runs where it stays in the engine longer is probably best for internal cleaning.
if you take closer look, you can see that layer of $#^^%& got thinner, and bare metal starts to show in little spots.
To be honest i'm not seeing the results on Mea's engine either.
I think the problem is the high temperatures he lives in combined with engine heat is just flashing most of the solvents off before it can work.
This product being a solvent and doesn't need high revs or long drives to be effective, in fact cooler temps and shorter runs where it stays in the engine longer is probably best for internal cleaning.
if you take closer look, you can see that layer of $#^^%& got thinner, and bare metal starts to show in little spots.
Originally Posted By: Trav
To be honest i'm not seeing the results on Mea's engine either.
I think the problem is the high temperatures he lives in combined with engine heat is just flashing most of the solvents off before it can work.
This product being a solvent and doesn't need high revs or long drives to be effective, in fact cooler temps and shorter runs where it stays in the engine longer is probably best for internal cleaning.
Trav: If you look closely, you’ll see that it is working. Two things to note though:
1. It's the top end of the engine that only get splashes of the engine oil.
2. I don't believe that temperature is an issue here. Yes' of course I don’t want to have Kreen in the summers here when it's 47 Deg. C ambient here. If you say that short trips are better in cold weather, consider that even on the shortest trips, if you always warm up your engine, the temps in the engine is in the 65-85 Deg. C. depending on season. And that is enough temp for ½ a litre (1 quart) of any solvent to evaporate/flash off. Kreen, IMHO, is meant to evaporate, leaving behind a detergent residue in oil that does the cleaning.
Example: At the end of any short trip, the engine even in this winter sits to cool off from 70 Deg. C. to ambient temp... And the Kreen starts to evaporat. The ambient can be as cold as ZERO Deg. but the engine operates at a certain temp. So the Kreen evaporate argument is nul here.
To be honest i'm not seeing the results on Mea's engine either.
I think the problem is the high temperatures he lives in combined with engine heat is just flashing most of the solvents off before it can work.
This product being a solvent and doesn't need high revs or long drives to be effective, in fact cooler temps and shorter runs where it stays in the engine longer is probably best for internal cleaning.
Trav: If you look closely, you’ll see that it is working. Two things to note though:
1. It's the top end of the engine that only get splashes of the engine oil.
2. I don't believe that temperature is an issue here. Yes' of course I don’t want to have Kreen in the summers here when it's 47 Deg. C ambient here. If you say that short trips are better in cold weather, consider that even on the shortest trips, if you always warm up your engine, the temps in the engine is in the 65-85 Deg. C. depending on season. And that is enough temp for ½ a litre (1 quart) of any solvent to evaporate/flash off. Kreen, IMHO, is meant to evaporate, leaving behind a detergent residue in oil that does the cleaning.
Example: At the end of any short trip, the engine even in this winter sits to cool off from 70 Deg. C. to ambient temp... And the Kreen starts to evaporat. The ambient can be as cold as ZERO Deg. but the engine operates at a certain temp. So the Kreen evaporate argument is nul here.
No dispute from me thats just my opinion and its not worth much compared to your experiences with the product.
If you say its working great i'm glad your satisfied.
Quote:
If you say that short trips are better in cold weather, consider that even on the shortest trips, if you always warm up your engine, the temps in the engine is in the 65-85 Deg. C. depending on season. And that is enough temp for ½ a litre (1 quart) of any solvent to evaporate/flash off. Kreen, IMHO, is meant to evaporate, leaving behind a detergent residue in oil that does the cleaning.
Consider this..
Even if the coolant is up to temp it takes a lot longer to get the oil up to operating temp, on a 5 or 6 mile run in spring, winter or fall here the oil may not get close to operating temp.
If you say its working great i'm glad your satisfied.
Quote:
If you say that short trips are better in cold weather, consider that even on the shortest trips, if you always warm up your engine, the temps in the engine is in the 65-85 Deg. C. depending on season. And that is enough temp for ½ a litre (1 quart) of any solvent to evaporate/flash off. Kreen, IMHO, is meant to evaporate, leaving behind a detergent residue in oil that does the cleaning.
Consider this..
Even if the coolant is up to temp it takes a lot longer to get the oil up to operating temp, on a 5 or 6 mile run in spring, winter or fall here the oil may not get close to operating temp.
Trav: I do not intend to offend you with my responses. Just have my opinion, and I am no expert in fluid thermodynamics. I am an Electrical Engineer, thats all.
I THINK that the Oil will get hotter before the coolant does, being in direct and constant/faster contact with the cylinders where the heat is produced. Infact, when the water gets hot as well, it also retains the heat for a while as the rate of cooling is not instant once the engine is shuf-off and nothing is circulating.
I THINK that the Oil will get hotter before the coolant does, being in direct and constant/faster contact with the cylinders where the heat is produced. Infact, when the water gets hot as well, it also retains the heat for a while as the rate of cooling is not instant once the engine is shuf-off and nothing is circulating.
The above question is very platform dependent. Some engines run the oil much hotter due to spraying the piston crowns from underneath.
But in MOST engines the coolant gets hot much faster than the oil. This is due to the thermostat in the coolant forcing the temp to rise quickly to a predetermined point before opening.
But in MOST engines the coolant gets hot much faster than the oil. This is due to the thermostat in the coolant forcing the temp to rise quickly to a predetermined point before opening.
Originally Posted By: MeaMurano
Trav: I do not intend to offend you with my responses. Just have my opinion, and I am no expert in fluid thermodynamics. I am an Electrical Engineer, thats all.
I THINK that the Oil will get hotter before the coolant does, being in direct and constant/faster contact with the cylinders where the heat is produced. Infact, when the water gets hot as well, it also retains the heat for a while as the rate of cooling is not instant once the engine is shuf-off and nothing is circulating.
I found the opposite to be true. Coolant reached temp and oil is still warm to the touch, certainly not hot.
Trav: I do not intend to offend you with my responses. Just have my opinion, and I am no expert in fluid thermodynamics. I am an Electrical Engineer, thats all.
I THINK that the Oil will get hotter before the coolant does, being in direct and constant/faster contact with the cylinders where the heat is produced. Infact, when the water gets hot as well, it also retains the heat for a while as the rate of cooling is not instant once the engine is shuf-off and nothing is circulating.
I found the opposite to be true. Coolant reached temp and oil is still warm to the touch, certainly not hot.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: MeaMurano
Trav: I do not intend to offend you with my responses. Just have my opinion, and I am no expert in fluid thermodynamics. I am an Electrical Engineer, thats all.
I THINK that the Oil will get hotter before the coolant does, being in direct and constant/faster contact with the cylinders where the heat is produced. Infact, when the water gets hot as well, it also retains the heat for a while as the rate of cooling is not instant once the engine is shuf-off and nothing is circulating.
I found the opposite to be true. Coolant reached temp and oil is still warm to the touch, certainly not hot.
I agree.
Originally Posted By: MeaMurano
Trav: I do not intend to offend you with my responses. Just have my opinion, and I am no expert in fluid thermodynamics. I am an Electrical Engineer, thats all.
I THINK that the Oil will get hotter before the coolant does, being in direct and constant/faster contact with the cylinders where the heat is produced. Infact, when the water gets hot as well, it also retains the heat for a while as the rate of cooling is not instant once the engine is shuf-off and nothing is circulating.
I found the opposite to be true. Coolant reached temp and oil is still warm to the touch, certainly not hot.
I agree.
Mea no problem no offense taken. The results you get are what is important. I observed engines in high summer here didn't clean up as quickly as they did in cooler temps that all.
Basically i am trying to understand what conditions the product works best under not if it works, it has proven that it works well many times.
I put it in one engine in the summer and drove it to Pittsburgh an back overnight, the results for cleaning visible deposits were not steller.
I went till sept on the oil and did an OC with Kreen and drove it around town over the course of a few months and it did a great job.
Why is the question. The heat theory is just that, my own theory and it might be totally off base.
Basically i am trying to understand what conditions the product works best under not if it works, it has proven that it works well many times.
I put it in one engine in the summer and drove it to Pittsburgh an back overnight, the results for cleaning visible deposits were not steller.
I went till sept on the oil and did an OC with Kreen and drove it around town over the course of a few months and it did a great job.
Why is the question. The heat theory is just that, my own theory and it might be totally off base.
The longer it sits in the oil, I would think it would soften up the deposits and clean better... Anyways, we know Kreen works.
Quote:
The longer it sits in the oil, I would think it would soften up the deposits and clean better
+1 That seems to be the case.
The longer it sits in the oil, I would think it would soften up the deposits and clean better
+1 That seems to be the case.
Originally Posted By: MeaMurano
I THINK that the Oil will get hotter before the coolant does, being in direct and constant/faster contact with the cylinders where the heat is produced. Infact, when the water gets hot as well, it also retains the heat for a while as the rate of cooling is not instant once the engine is shuf-off and nothing is circulating.
oil is NOT in direct or constant contact with cylinders (except for negligible amounts of oil scraped from cylinders by rings).
water IS in direct or constant contact with cylinders as it circulates just outside the liners.
this is why most cars have WATER coolant radiator and no oil radiators.
I THINK that the Oil will get hotter before the coolant does, being in direct and constant/faster contact with the cylinders where the heat is produced. Infact, when the water gets hot as well, it also retains the heat for a while as the rate of cooling is not instant once the engine is shuf-off and nothing is circulating.
oil is NOT in direct or constant contact with cylinders (except for negligible amounts of oil scraped from cylinders by rings).
water IS in direct or constant contact with cylinders as it circulates just outside the liners.
this is why most cars have WATER coolant radiator and no oil radiators.
So, from what I read posted, it looks like I should have put the Kreen tonic in my oil and did some daily driving with a mix short trips to NJ and back.....as I normally do....monthly.
How long can you leave Kreen in your sump for mileage/time?
I was under the impression that you should not leave it in your sump for too long of a period of time. That is why I chose to run Kreen towards the end of my OCI, with about 1K or so left before it needed to be changed for a fresh fill of oil and filter.
So, can you please advise me as to which is the better method for using Kreen for my second dose?
A)Taking a long one way or round trip with Kreen in the sump for 4 days or
B) Leaving Kreen in my sump for over 1K miles with a mix of daily short trip city driving and some scattered 50 mile round trips to NJ?
Thanks.
How long can you leave Kreen in your sump for mileage/time?
I was under the impression that you should not leave it in your sump for too long of a period of time. That is why I chose to run Kreen towards the end of my OCI, with about 1K or so left before it needed to be changed for a fresh fill of oil and filter.
So, can you please advise me as to which is the better method for using Kreen for my second dose?
A)Taking a long one way or round trip with Kreen in the sump for 4 days or
B) Leaving Kreen in my sump for over 1K miles with a mix of daily short trip city driving and some scattered 50 mile round trips to NJ?
Thanks.
- Status
Similar threads
