Kia Oil Filters

[Sayjac]

^^^^ Been posted here before, but not an apples to apples comparison imo. The Prem. Plus shown (now Classic) has a nitrile adbv and for most that's not an issue for the average 5k ocis. Perhaps not true for Kia/Hyundai which may (or may not) be more susceptible to start up rattle, possibly caused by a compromised adbv.

Why not not compare it to a P1? Then it's a comparison of similar designed filters, both with silicone adbv.

 

[ltslimjim]

^I agree with sayjac.

 

[moto94536]

OEM is best way to go. I bought 10 Toyota OEM Oil filter for $40. Free Shipping.

I will not use fram, because when I use, heater and fan doesn't work. Weird..

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: moto94536
I will not use fram, because when I use, heater and fan doesn't work. Weird..


WT

?

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I will not use fram, because when I use, heater and fan doesn't work. Weird..


WT

?


Wow, best reply ever.

...at 6 AM with no sleep, yet.

 

[sierrascout]

Just checked on aP1 for my car. $6.99 each, they are around 1-2 dollars more, depending on which dealer I use.

 

[bigblumer]

I've run Napa Gold and PureOne without issue, but I am getting a clickity-clack from my Optima engine, at start-up and even when warm. I can't tell if I haven't noticed it before, or if its the Oil (PP 5w-20), or if its the filter (Bosch D+). In the past, its had a diet of quick-lube oil chances, then a steady diet of 5k VWB and Napa Gold. I was hoping to run this OCI to 7k or higher, but I might just replace the filter with an OEM filter to see if the noise goes away.

 

[Sayjac]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: sayjac
The following links to the Motor Trend long term test of the 2011 Kia Optima, seems to indicate a possible issue with a Kia oem filter. At least, that's what is implied by updates #4 and #5 posted below.

Long term update #4

Long term update #5

Ouch! ... go in for an oil & filter change and end up getting an engine swap.

Yeah, the stealership's position seemed rather vague in the updates, so installer error can't be totally ruled out either. Though no name is used, it doesn't paint a very glowing picture of the dealer in the updates.

New engine, plus 800mi. test drive to confirm proper repair by Kia is nice. I would like to have seen the results of a tear down of the original engine, but that's not happening. Interesting read imo, though.

As for the cost of P1, average canister ~$6.99 at AAP, less at Kmart and Amazon. But, if one buys 4 P1's at AAP online with ~$2 filler and a promo code like A123, $10 off $30, P1 can be had for ~$5 each.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Yes, it would have been interesting to see the report of the tore down engine in terms of oil starvation damage, if any.

I wonder if this has happened before ... the article made it sound like the dealership kind of knew there were fitment issues with the OEM cartridge filters.

I'm sure this brought a high level of attention to the KIA engineers and maybe they have rectified any design or fitment issue ... or maybe even an updated installation procedure if the Techs were having problems.

 

[sierrascout]

If I give a credit card number I can get close to the price I pay at the dealer already. I don't think so, all for a pretty gold filter. I drive by a KIA dealer weekly so i will pick up one then.

 

[Propflux01]

I'm willing to bet it was a screw up by the technician. I've seen it happen quite a bit over my lifetime.

 

[SHOZ]

I get the Hyundai filters off of ebay for around $5 shipped with new oil plug washers.

 

[Wilhelm_D]

Originally Posted By: sayjac
.... The following links to the Motor Trend long term test of the 2011 Kia Optima, seems to indicate a possible issue with a Kia oem filter. At least, that's what is implied by updates #4 and #5 posted below. ....


It reads more like the dealer screwed up than the filter was defective.

 

[Sayjac]

Originally Posted By: Wilhelm_D
Originally Posted By: sayjac
.... The following links to the Motor Trend long term test of the 2011 Kia Optima, seems to indicate a possible issue with a Kia oem filter. At least, that's what is implied by updates #4 and #5 posted below. ....


It reads more like the dealer screwed up than the filter was defective.

It's certainly possible (which I mention in a later post), but without any verification either way, so is a filter defect.

I found it an interesting report though for a MT long term test, and very unusual.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: sayjac
^^^^ Been posted here before, but not an apples to apples comparison imo. The Prem. Plus shown (now Classic) has a nitrile adbv and for most that's not an issue for the average 5k ocis. Perhaps not true for Kia/Hyundai which may (or may not) be more susceptible to start up rattle, possibly caused by a compromised adbv.

Why not not compare it to a P1? Then it's a comparison of similar designed filters, both with silicone adbv.


Hyundai has a TSB on the rattle and they will insist the OEM filter be used. That filter has been used on Kias, Kia built cars and Hyundais since the 70s. It has been upgrade a few times since then though.

It is a very stout filter and has a unique 20 psi pressure differential bypass.

TSB 05-20-002
JULY, 2005

USE OF AFTERMARKET ENGINE OIL FILTERS CAUSING ENGINE KNOCKING NOISE

DESCRIPTION:

Some vehicles may experience an engine knock noise with the use of an aftermarket oil filter. Aftermarket oil filters may use different materials, construction and specifications than genuine Hyundai oil filters, which may lead to pressure variations within the engine, thus contributing to an engine knocking noise.

 

[bigblumer]

About a month ago, I did an oil change on my Kia Optima. I planned on a 6 month/7K OCI. I got some Pennzoil Platinum from my dad for Christmas, so I decided to use that and a Bosch D+ I picked up with the 5.00 rebate.

On the 2.4 I-4, the filter is oriented vertically, with the thread-end up, so ADBV failure shouldn't be too much of a problem, one would think.

Anyway, right after the change I noticed a little more lifter noise, especially after the engine is warm. I assumed it was the filter. My theory was that maybe the D+ has too dense of media, but it was just a less-than-educated guess.

Having seen many posts on BITOG, I thought it may be worth my time to try an OEM filter, so I picked up two (which didn't come with oil plug washers. I've always thought that dealer was shady.)

This weekend, I replaced the Bosch D+ with the Kia filter, which is very well constructed. Much to my dismay, there was no change in noise.

I can't tell if its the PP, or its just a case of BITOG enduced paranoia. Maybe the noise has always been there? Its not all that loud. My brother-in-law's 09 civic is a lot noiser.

I will see if the noise is the same the next time around. I am going to try VGB and a Puro Classic next time, just to see if the noise chagnes. Going forward, I will probably switch to Kia filters, after I exhaust my supply of Napa Golds.

 

[rrounds]

I don't know how big of a filter will fit on your Kia but my stock filter was about the same size as your filter. I went with a Baldwin B202 on my Honda and it is over twice as big as my stock filter with the same by-pass valve. So if you can fit a larger filter on your car I would look into that to. I run over size filters on all my cars and some of them have over 260k miles and I still don't have to add oil between oil changes.

ROD

 

[steve20]

Originally Posted By: moto94536
OEM is best way to go. I bought 10 Toyota OEM Oil filter for $40. Free Shipping.

I will not use fram, because when I use, heater and fan doesn't work. Weird..


Can you return them? Toyo filters were not rated anywhere near the top tier in filtering ability

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Filtering ability - thats a broad category. You can probably kill an engine with a ultra-high efficiency filter - but never with a screen door filter.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: sayjac

The following links to the Motor Trend long term test of the 2011 Kia Optima, seems to indicate a possible issue with a Kia oem filter. At least, that's what is implied by updates #4 and #5 posted below.

Long term update #4
Long term update #5
Absolutely a "service technician" issue - not a question in my mind. Does not the filter base have, maybe, 3-4 threads? There is not a way for the "tech" to thread the filter 1/2" in (multiple turns) the nipple (taking multiple turns)and then to have it not thread further as to make proper and good contact at the base.
Kia and Hyundai service in my geo area had been absolutely abysmal in the last decade of the 20th century. The tech should have found the leak during a "QC leak check" after the OC was complete. Of course they dont do a leak cheack - they assume the job was performed correctly. A bad assumption given the ex-con, non-technician doing this six buck-an-hour grease monkey racket. Glad to see it all spelled out in print and 'defective oil filter' in heavy quotes.
Also KIA would leave you and me driving that car. Im sure It OK. If it can run on 0w-20 it can run on NO OIL