Internal corrosion during storage

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Need some help from all you oil gurus.

I am responsible for the care of several large museum car collections. The cars range from brass era veterans to 70s muscle and european supercars. They are all suffering from internal corrosion to varying degrees and I hope changing our oil specs may help. Problems seen are:

1. Visible rust on steel and iron components on stripdown.
2. Black crevis corrosion stains on cam lobes and followers and other similar pressure contact surfaces.
3. Witness marks of repeated micro welding of rings to cylinders.
4. Constantly high wear metal number in oil analysis.
5. Low time since overhaul engines with smokey exhausts.

Conditions:

1. Vehicles in humidity controlled storage.
2. Every effort made to ensure vehicles are driven for at least 30 mins and oil temps held up long enough to avoid condensate buildup whenever they are used. Supported by low water numbers on analysis.
3. Constant oil changes - minimum every year.
4. Very limited use - periods of 3-12 months between uses.
5. Current lubes - generally dead dinosaurs by Castrol. No synthetics (yet).

Whilst the obvious solution is drive them all every week, it can't be done and I need some good advice on what factors will improve protection during storage. Cost is not a major factor.

Concerns:

1. Rumors of some synthetics causing further corrosion issues (e.g. Gp V ester such as Redline associated with cam pitting).
2. Seal problems (e.g. "Mobil1 not tested with or recommended for seals in vehicles produced before 1980...." from Mobil).

Any and all suggestions welcome.

NPJ
 
Just wondering here guys...

What do you consider long enough for an engine to sit without being run that would require fogging or something similar? I run all of my engines at least once every 30-60 days and get fully warmed up. I have never fogged anything up to this point. I do however use fuel stabilizer in everything.
 
I volunteer my service to responsibly drive each of the cars once every other week to keep everything healthy
smile.gif
 
Cylinder rust can happen very quickly. The only thing you can do aside from fogging is to load the cylinder with a little oil and loosen up the valves. Some are always going to be open and rust will occur. You can't stop it.


If it wouldn't break any "rule", I'd rig a pre-oiler that's tapped to the drain plug and tee'd into the sender and just run it once and a while. I was going to suggest running them out of gas before sitting and then just spinning the engine over by the starter with the pre-oiler running. This wouldn't be too much of a chore ..certainly less laborious than running them up to temp once a month. Fuel effects should be ZERO. You can still do oil analysis to determine moisture content ..but I don't see it being too much if the engines are never run. When someone REALLY wants to run them, taking it "out of mothball" isn't too much work.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
A few suggestions:

I think you should use a fogging oil in all the cars. Amsoil Fogging Oil

I think you should use 2-stroke oil mixed very lightly in the fuel 400:1 or so. Amsoil Saber 2 stroke oil

I think you should use a fuel preservative. Amsoil Gas Stabilizer

I think you should use a straight weight synthetic diesel oil. Amsoil ACD SAE 30 (10W-30) OR synthetic 15W-40 AME IF you need a higher viscosity.



I agree with the above!
 
Hi,
If you are storing your cars it may be worth considering an oil with a Vapour Phase Inhibitor ( VPI )to prevent corrosion above the oil line

Such oils are made for Agriculture/Farm equipment, suitable for all vehicles and Castrol's AGRI TRX 1540 is sutable. This oil is at least rated as a CG-4/SJ and has a viscosity of 15w-40.

I would not use synthetic oils for storage on older antique due to the seal leakage issue. Last thing you need to do is to try and find obsolete seals for cars long out of production
 
Bluestream, VPI was going to be my suggestion.

Castrol make a couple of fleet(ish) oils with VPI.

Molakule used to sell an old car additive that contained VPI, which I'm sure would do the trick.

I've read of gun owners 100 years ago who placed a block of camphor in their cases to act as a VPI. Don't know if synthetic camphor does the same thing.
 
We lost a day. Bruce will hopefully chime in with his oil component advice again.

Like I said, if you're going to actually drive the thing, there's not much you can do. Whether it's once a month or once a week. The longer you allow it to sit the more corrosion will occur. If I had some collector type stuff ..that the only reason I started it up was to lube it up, then do the stuff I said above.
 
Where did my post go?
Any way you need a film forming oil such as the MIL-L-21260D I make one so does Castrol also with Vapour phase rust inhibitors a Normal HDEO or PCMO will not work and will stain and rust.
Email me I will get my info for you.

Fogging the cylinders with this is a good idea too.

The mil spec type rust inhibiting oils will have a humidity cabenet days of >90 @ 100% humididty this is what you need I posted all this but post is now gone to??
bruce
 
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Quote:
The mil spec type rust inhibiting oils will have a humidity cabenet days of >90 @ 100% humididty this is what you need


Does this component merely have a cost factor to it ..or does it cause you to do some other mombo to blend an oil to work under the other criteria that it must perform under??

That is, is the rust inhibitor stuff transparent in usage ..or does it have side effects? This is almost lubrication pharmacology.
 
As I remember it adds CA or Barium which will impact SAP it can be used to drive with but will have higher ash, otherwise Ok to use.
bruce
 
Many thanks to all - this is genuinely useful. I will pass on GMBoy's offer but I suspect we will be investigating VPIs

NPJ
 
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