Hondas CR-V 1998 makes tin can noise

Marbles makes me think something is broken…like a heat shield or flex pipe covering. Only the first things that came to mind….
 
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I was just under a '98 today and it occurred to me I don't which exhaust heat shield you reference. The manifold has one in the engine bay (that requires you blindly pass the dipstick through, aka Dumbest Design EVAR), but there's one on the cat roughly under the front seats which I had to weld back together. The cat shield will make all kinds of bad noises when it deteriorates.

Another thing to look at is the rear driveshaft u-joints and carrier bearing
 
D60 said:
I was just under a '98 today and it occurred to me I don't which exhaust heat shield you reference. The manifold has one in the engine bay (that requires you blindly pass the dipstick through, aka Dumbest Design EVAR), but there's one on the cat roughly under the front seats which I had to weld back together. The cat shield will make all kinds of bad noises when it deteriorates.

Another thing to look at is the rear driveshaft u-joints and carrier bearing
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You say there's a shield on the cat
Under the front seats.... gotta look under the car again tomorrow because i Iooked at the shield on top of the cat and the shield over
The exhaust and both are tight no noise
 
Olgad said:
You say there's a shield on the cat
Under the front seats.... gotta look under the car again tomorrow because i Iooked at the shield on top of the cat and the shield over
The exhaust and both are tight no noise
Click to expand...
It encircles the cat on the exhaust on the exterior of the vehicle. I'm just saying it's roughly under the front seats in relation to the length of the vehicle.

It has 4 machine screws that go into captive nuts -- one at each corner of the rectangular shape. On this '98 the right front fatigued and it'll rattle like crazy. I got the whole thing on the bench and tack welded the fatigued metal back together.
 
D60 said:
It encircles the cat on the exhaust on the exterior of the vehicle. I'm just saying it's roughly under the front seats in relation to the length of the vehicle.

It has 4 machine screws that go into captive nuts -- one at each corner of the rectangular shape. On this '98 the right front fatigued and it'll rattle like crazy. I got the whole thing on the bench and tack welded the fatigued metal back together.
Click to expand...
Might be the drive shaft thing that's connected to the differential
 
Olgad said:
My Honda CR-V 1998 started making a noise that intermediate, it comes and goes. Usually on turns or when the road approaches a hill. Sounds like I'm dragging tin cans. I think it's coming from the front . Everything looks fine under the car. Mechanic can't seem to find noise. The heat shield near the exhaust is not loose.. any ideas ?
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Could it be a loose strut? Or what about the catalytic converter breaking up causing the material to rattle.
 
If the cat were breaking up you'd almost surely get cat efficiency codes, but I don't know about emissions programming in Greece? I wonder if the ECU is even looking for this??

@Trav you seem "intercontinental and you eat French toast" (anyone, anyone??). What do you know about P0420s et al in foreign markets?
 
Update...I have no codes...what I did do today was remove the driveshaft that goes to the differential...I wanna see if the noise stops with that gone .so basically I'm in front wheel drive now
 
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I have owned a 1st gen CRV for more than 10 years. Some places where I have had mystery noises come from:

- Screws holding the armrests onto the door panels back out
- Rear glass latch gets worn (bushings inside wear out) causing glass to rattle up and down. Had to replace the latch, not a huge deal. It's inside the tailgate
- Worn swaybar links, especially rear ones
- Driveshaft going from front to back (if you have "4WD") - u-joints get sticky and then it vibes under load

I'm sure there are more...
 
Update..took the driveshaft off the CR-V. Been driving in only front wheel drive for 3 days .no noise... apparently the driveshaft needs a new nuckle or whatever you call it... someone is gonna fix it for me..in the mean time I'm driving in front wheel drive..the car drives fine you can't even tell anything is missing. Weird
 
JZiggy said:
I have owned a 1st gen CRV for more than 10 years. Some places where I have had mystery noises come from:

- Screws holding the armrests onto the door panels back out
- Rear glass latch gets worn (bushings inside wear out) causing glass to rattle up and down. Had to replace the latch, not a huge deal. It's inside the tailgate
- Worn swaybar links, especially rear ones
- Driveshaft going from front to back (if you have "4WD") - u-joints get sticky and then it vibes under load

I'm sure there are more...
Click to expand...
Took the driveshaft out..it was the u joints... driving around now in only front wheel drive..car is fine though
 
Olgad said:
Took the driveshaft out..it was the u joints... driving around now in only front wheel drive..car is fine though
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If it's truly the u-joints they're technically not serviceable but you likely CAN get aftermarket joints with an inner snap ring to retain them.

If Dorman offers a shaft, listen to Brandon: "DON'T". The fit of their Subaru shafts is horrible.

Be certain it's the u-joints and not the carrier bearing before you replace parts you don't need to. The '98 I service has around 250k miles and the u-joints are still tight. You can tell if a u-joint is bad simply by manipulating it by hand.

I honestly don't know if the carrier bearing can be replaced on these -- I'd have to look into it.

If everything checks out it might be worth looking at the rear diff fluid level. Honda has a penchant for their very own super duper mega special fluids and I think they call out "Dual Pump"? fluid IIRC

That said, if you're fine with just having front wheel drive, that's ok, too.
 
D60 said:
If it's truly the u-joints they're technically not serviceable but you likely CAN get aftermarket joints with an inner snap ring to retain them.

If Dorman offers a shaft, listen to Brandon: "DON'T". The fit of their Subaru shafts is horrible.

Be certain it's the u-joints and not the carrier bearing before you replace parts you don't need to. The '98 I service has around 250k miles and the u-joints are still tight. You can tell if a u-joint is bad simply by manipulating it by hand.

I honestly don't know if the carrier bearing can be replaced on these -- I'd have to look into it.

If everything checks out it might be worth looking at the rear diff fluid level. Honda has a penchant for their very own super duper mega special fluids and I think they call out "Dual Pump"? fluid IIRC

That said, if you're fine with just having front wheel drive, that's ok, too.
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm getting after Market joints...
 
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Fabulous50s said:
Do you need all wheel drive? You may see better fuel economy with no driveshaft and save money by just driving it the way it is.
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I've already noticed a difference in the gas mileage...I don't need the all wheel drive really...as I understand the 98 CR-V had real time 4 wheel drive..kinda like it kicks in by itself when it needs to...not sure if mine ever turned on in the city where I drive... I live in a small city in Greece
 
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