Home humidity level

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Both bathrooms have exhaust fans that are run during and after showers.

Humidity in the house is up to 65% right now.
 
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So, it has been raining in Texas for 10 days straight.

Humidity in my garage (not air conditioned) is 81 percent.

The house is right at 60 percent.

When it dries out during the summer sometimes the humidity gets down to 30-40 percent in the house.
 
The furnace was replaced, which included a new blower, in November last year. Maybe the new blower moves too much air as opposed the original blower? If so I would have no idea how to slow it anyways. I rent so I am trying to get a list of concerns together before I make a call to the landlord.
 
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One thing that should be mentioned, make sure your fan is set to auto and not on, leaving the fan on will increase your humidity as much as 10%. When the compressor cycles off, the blower will dump a lot of the humidity you have removed right back into the space being conditioned. If your already using it in auto, than you could be a bit oversized or you may just be experiencing one of the handful of days that things wont be perfect, equipment should be sized for a majority of the year, not the cool wet days and not the hottest days of the year either, somewhere in between. Ideal humidity should be below 60%, my house is 38% right now, which is a little dry.
 
Originally Posted By: Throt
Hi all

Might have seen my earlier post about my house a/c not cooling that well. Now I'm having an issue with humidity. The house is currently at 63% humidity and the a/c has been running on and off all day. From a quick google search this is way too high. The a/c system should be removing the humidity but it doesn't appear to be doing so.

Aside from getting a dehumidifier I'm not sure what to do....


Quote:
The furnace was replaced, which included a new blower, in November last year. Maybe the new blower moves too much air as opposed the original blower? If so I would have no idea how to slow it anyways. I rent so I am trying to get a list of concerns together before I make a call to the landlord.


Since you don't understand what you're doing, don't understand the A/C cycle and don't own this place, I'm going to suggest you call the landlord and present your case. Don't mean to be blunt, but there it is. The house not cooling well and your issue with indoor humidity are directly related. To dehumidify, the system must be capable of lowering the air temp across the evap coil to below the dew point. It's that simple. Your's isn't doing that. And it won't until it's fixed.
 
Originally Posted By: Throt
Home is 1,690 sq. ft. 1 story, brick. Decent windows. Most are still sealed from the winter with that plastic you use a hair drier on.

Here is a pic of our unit specs.

218EB994-3F7B-4981-AB5A-4F69EC38EE1F_zpsw5oben65.jpg



Those specs aren't really useful without a manual J calculation, IMO.
 
My nest thermostat is set at 76 degrees upstairs and downstairs. My home humidity is at 40% on each floor. Its 72 degrees right now outside. Its gonna storm here in middle tn in a few hours just as a comparison.
 
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
My nest thermostat is set at 76 degrees upstairs and downstairs. My home humidity is at 40% on each floor. Its 72 degrees right now outside. Its gonna storm here in middle tn in a few hours just as a comparison.


Do you like your Nest? I've been thinking about getting one when I move.
 
Tech was out. Unit really low on refrigerant....again...but of course the Landlord opted to not have the leak found and fixed. So I'm going to get a baseline supply temp during the hottest of the days and when the supply temp increases by 3 degrees I'll be calling back.

Most tenants in a college down don't know anything about how appliances should function...so I don't think they like me.
 
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However, the humidity level hasn't gone down and this will probably stay this way. The run time has decreased even further since the refrigerant is fully charged.

But, considering I only live here about another 8-10 weeks, I'm okay with it. The lower run time will keep my utility bills down.
 
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do you have the recirc air turned off or on? if it is on, pls turn it off.

check the condensation catch in the A-Coil and make sure it is draining well.

take the air temp going into the Acoil and then going out of it.

I would invest in a 200 dehumidifier from walmart for the time being.
 
Originally Posted By: Throt
However, the humidity level hasn't gone down and this will probably stay this way. The run time has decreased even further since the refrigerant is fully charged.

But, considering I only live here about another 8-10 weeks, I'm okay with it. The lower run time will keep my utility bills down.


Mold does not take long to grow...

Is there a humidifier also with the hvac? check if the system is shutoff.
 
I've cleaned both the condenser outside and the coils inside. Both were pretty clean but I cleaned them anyways. I don't think the water accumulated by the coils is draining well, if at all (I don't know where it's suppose to drain either). Not sure what to do about that. When I was cleaning them the bottoms were covered in water. This is a unit that pulls down, so the returns are in the ceiling. Below the coils is probably a 3 foot hole and it is extremely rusted on the bottom and there is actually a hole rusted through it. Any tips on that would be helpful...maybe I'll snap some pics later.

No humidifier on the unit. Even with the system fully charged, the humidity level never dropped.
 
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Check your condensation line. Is it dripping a lot? That's the first thing I look at. If it's dripping a lot then the indoor coil is chilled and the system is removing humidity. Humid today and my line will drip 3-4 drops a second.
 
I am going to take a slew of pictures when I get home, then maybe someone can give me some direction. I am 99% sure my drain line is clogged, which I assume is impeding the a/c's ability to remove humidity.
 
Photos would help. If the pan is full, then the coil is cooling the air below the dew point. However, a full pan is not impeding the systems ability to remove moisture. A major air leak would though. Conditioned air needs to remain within the interior. Further, the returns need to be removing conditioned air, not humid, warm air from outside. If the returns are in the ceiling, leaks there could draw in humid air.

There are two effective ways to clear a clogged drain line, depending upon how it's designed and the equipment you have on hand.

If there's a "T" in the line near the coil, you can use an air compressor or even an electric leaf blower. However, some of this air may shoot out into the pan itself, spilling the water.

The other method is to use a wet/dry vac on the output side. Slide the larger hose over the outlet tube and close the gap with your fist or cellophane kitchen wrap, duct tape, etc. and let the vac do the dirty work! It'll not only suck the line clean, remove any mold from the p-trap, but also suck all the water out of the drip tray.

Repeat as needed!
 
OP: did you fix it? i seem to have the same problem. humidity in mid 60's. used to be mid 50's before. it's raining a lot in the last 3 weeks, though. however, is suspect something is wrong with compressor. it did not run this AM, spinning fan only. it works fine now, with temp delta of 15F, about the same it used to be earlier IIRC.
 
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