High-temp oil for turbo car
- Thread starter Jarlaxle
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Some unanswered questions about fuel dilution, oil pressure and temperature.
But one of these two would meet your needs:
Amsoil RD30 10W-30
Amsoil RD50 15W-50
But one of these two would meet your needs:
Amsoil RD30 10W-30
Amsoil RD50 15W-50
Originally Posted By: dparm
I thought Ferrari has since switched to 5w40?
Redline's website is confirming that the newer Ferraris (F430, etc) are using 5w40.
I thought Ferrari has since switched to 5w40?
Redline's website is confirming that the newer Ferraris (F430, etc) are using 5w40.
300F oil temp in the pan is not particularly worrisome if you are using a good synthetic.
If you were measuring oil temp in the main oil supply drilling, over 260F would be a worry.
But since you're drag racing, I'm concerned how quickly the temp is getting to 300F. Can you add more volume to the oil system? Or maybe a 3-qt Accusump? With that much power, the launches must be violent, and maybe there is an interruption in oil supply when the engine is at high rpm and max boost. I can picture the oil sloshing to the rear of the pan due to the vehicle acceleration, and oil not draining back from the cylinder heads due to high crankcase pressure.
I suggest Red Line 10w40.
If you were measuring oil temp in the main oil supply drilling, over 260F would be a worry.
But since you're drag racing, I'm concerned how quickly the temp is getting to 300F. Can you add more volume to the oil system? Or maybe a 3-qt Accusump? With that much power, the launches must be violent, and maybe there is an interruption in oil supply when the engine is at high rpm and max boost. I can picture the oil sloshing to the rear of the pan due to the vehicle acceleration, and oil not draining back from the cylinder heads due to high crankcase pressure.
I suggest Red Line 10w40.
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Redline
+1
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: dparm
I thought Ferrari has since switched to 5w40?
Redline's website is confirming that the newer Ferraris (F430, etc) are using 5w40.
Seems even Ferrari has figured out that all that internal engine resistance with 5W-60 or 10W-60 is unnecessary i think.
Now what if Bugatti Veyron did the same.........................
Quote:
Stupid question: short of something like a nitro motor, is ANYTHING harder on oil than a high-boost, high-output turbo engine?
As to question: I think Alcohol-fueled water-injected NHRA funny car is harder on oil than a GN.
That, and redlining an engine within a minute of turning a key on a cold morning. That would be harder on oil that what you describe. Also, routinely short-tripping and not burning off condensation, or overcooled engine a.k.a. sludge factory. Ouch! (I said redlining it not revving it up to 3000RPM for 10 or 15 seconds to help flow.)
Redline
+1
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: dparm
I thought Ferrari has since switched to 5w40?
Redline's website is confirming that the newer Ferraris (F430, etc) are using 5w40.
Seems even Ferrari has figured out that all that internal engine resistance with 5W-60 or 10W-60 is unnecessary i think.
Now what if Bugatti Veyron did the same.........................
Quote:
Stupid question: short of something like a nitro motor, is ANYTHING harder on oil than a high-boost, high-output turbo engine?
As to question: I think Alcohol-fueled water-injected NHRA funny car is harder on oil than a GN.
That, and redlining an engine within a minute of turning a key on a cold morning. That would be harder on oil that what you describe. Also, routinely short-tripping and not burning off condensation, or overcooled engine a.k.a. sludge factory. Ouch! (I said redlining it not revving it up to 3000RPM for 10 or 15 seconds to help flow.)
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
300F oil temp in the pan is not particularly worrisome if you are using a good synthetic.
If you were measuring oil temp in the main oil supply drilling, over 260F would be a worry.
But since you're drag racing, I'm concerned how quickly the temp is getting to 300F. Can you add more volume to the oil system? Or maybe a 3-qt Accusump? With that much power, the launches must be violent, and maybe there is an interruption in oil supply when the engine is at high rpm and max boost. I can picture the oil sloshing to the rear of the pan due to the vehicle acceleration, and oil not draining back from the cylinder heads due to high crankcase pressure.
I suggest Red Line 10w40.
The pan is baffled (I recall a Moroso), there is a wiindage tray & crank scraper....the whole thing (pan, filter, cooler) is about eight quarts.
We did some low-tech datalogging because she was worried about exactly what you posted: the car DOES launch hard (it will pull the front wheels about six inches on slicks), she wasn't sure the baffles wewre enough. So, I simply rode shotgun for a drag pass. (The car ran a 10.81 with 260+lbs worth of me in the passenger seat.) The oil pressure gauge was about 60psi on the starting line (3500RPM, building boost against the converter), when the tree flashed, it went to between 70 and 80 and didn't budge until the end of the strip.
I would bet this thing might run a 10-flat with a trans brake. It's always a struggle to build boost without the car creeping out of the staging beams, even full on the brakes.
300F oil temp in the pan is not particularly worrisome if you are using a good synthetic.
If you were measuring oil temp in the main oil supply drilling, over 260F would be a worry.
But since you're drag racing, I'm concerned how quickly the temp is getting to 300F. Can you add more volume to the oil system? Or maybe a 3-qt Accusump? With that much power, the launches must be violent, and maybe there is an interruption in oil supply when the engine is at high rpm and max boost. I can picture the oil sloshing to the rear of the pan due to the vehicle acceleration, and oil not draining back from the cylinder heads due to high crankcase pressure.
I suggest Red Line 10w40.
The pan is baffled (I recall a Moroso), there is a wiindage tray & crank scraper....the whole thing (pan, filter, cooler) is about eight quarts.
We did some low-tech datalogging because she was worried about exactly what you posted: the car DOES launch hard (it will pull the front wheels about six inches on slicks), she wasn't sure the baffles wewre enough. So, I simply rode shotgun for a drag pass. (The car ran a 10.81 with 260+lbs worth of me in the passenger seat.) The oil pressure gauge was about 60psi on the starting line (3500RPM, building boost against the converter), when the tree flashed, it went to between 70 and 80 and didn't budge until the end of the strip.
I would bet this thing might run a 10-flat with a trans brake. It's always a struggle to build boost without the car creeping out of the staging beams, even full on the brakes.
Something is WAY wrong here...
My street car makes ~800hp at the crank and ~900 at the crank from 122 cubic inches, so I'm making DOUBLE the hp/ci of the car in question.
With that said, with CONVENTIONAL 20W50 VR1, my oil temps never get above 200F with a regular size BM cooler (forgot the exact size but it's not big by any means), and I never saw them about ~250 without the cooler at all.
My previous turbo car, a TT C5 Corvette that made similar HP saw about 220F for oil temps.
In your case, I'd try a new sending unit/gauge and go from there. Either the gauge is off or something is WAY wrong in the engine.
EDIT-took a closer look at the thread (as others did too)-they aren't as hot as you first made them out to be, but 280-300 is still VERY hot after a 1/4 mile pass. I'd still investigate and run the best oil you can in the meantime.
My street car makes ~800hp at the crank and ~900 at the crank from 122 cubic inches, so I'm making DOUBLE the hp/ci of the car in question.
With that said, with CONVENTIONAL 20W50 VR1, my oil temps never get above 200F with a regular size BM cooler (forgot the exact size but it's not big by any means), and I never saw them about ~250 without the cooler at all.
My previous turbo car, a TT C5 Corvette that made similar HP saw about 220F for oil temps.
In your case, I'd try a new sending unit/gauge and go from there. Either the gauge is off or something is WAY wrong in the engine.
EDIT-took a closer look at the thread (as others did too)-they aren't as hot as you first made them out to be, but 280-300 is still VERY hot after a 1/4 mile pass. I'd still investigate and run the best oil you can in the meantime.
Last edited:
I've been building turbo road race engines for better than 30 years. Mobil 1 15W-50 is the standard oil I choose. It's a robust oil with a stout additive package, able to handle the heat, not too thick during cold startups and it's a true group IV synthetic.
It's also available at Wal-Mart and other local stores.
Configure your setup to use it properly.
I was road racing a 385RWHP turbo miata 1.8L. The engine internals held up perfectly with M1. Even with severe oil temperature problems. (think FL heat at Homestead)
Yes, the engine was disassembled for upgraded components and for "shortened" connecting rods (too much boost)
It's also available at Wal-Mart and other local stores.
Configure your setup to use it properly.
I was road racing a 385RWHP turbo miata 1.8L. The engine internals held up perfectly with M1. Even with severe oil temperature problems. (think FL heat at Homestead)
Yes, the engine was disassembled for upgraded components and for "shortened" connecting rods (too much boost)
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Originally Posted By: Cujet
It's also available at Wal-Mart
Is Walmart carrying it again yet?
It's also available at Wal-Mart
Is Walmart carrying it again yet?
Originally Posted By: TurboTravis
Something is WAY wrong here...
My street car makes ~800hp at the crank and ~900 at the crank from 122 cubic inches, so I'm making DOUBLE the hp/ci of the car in question.
With that said, with CONVENTIONAL 20W50 VR1, my oil temps never get above 200F with a regular size BM cooler (forgot the exact size but it's not big by any means), and I never saw them about ~250 without the cooler at all.
My previous turbo car, a TT C5 Corvette that made similar HP saw about 220F for oil temps.
In your case, I'd try a new sending unit/gauge and go from there. Either the gauge is off or something is WAY wrong in the engine.
EDIT-took a closer look at the thread (as others did too)-they aren't as hot as you first made them out to be, but 280-300 is still VERY hot after a 1/4 mile pass. I'd still investigate and run the best oil you can in the meantime.
What the [censored] are you driving??
Something is WAY wrong here...
My street car makes ~800hp at the crank and ~900 at the crank from 122 cubic inches, so I'm making DOUBLE the hp/ci of the car in question.
With that said, with CONVENTIONAL 20W50 VR1, my oil temps never get above 200F with a regular size BM cooler (forgot the exact size but it's not big by any means), and I never saw them about ~250 without the cooler at all.
My previous turbo car, a TT C5 Corvette that made similar HP saw about 220F for oil temps.
In your case, I'd try a new sending unit/gauge and go from there. Either the gauge is off or something is WAY wrong in the engine.
EDIT-took a closer look at the thread (as others did too)-they aren't as hot as you first made them out to be, but 280-300 is still VERY hot after a 1/4 mile pass. I'd still investigate and run the best oil you can in the meantime.
What the [censored] are you driving??
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: TurboTravis
Something is WAY wrong here...
My street car makes ~800hp at the crank and ~900 at the crank from 122 cubic inches, so I'm making DOUBLE the hp/ci of the car in question.
With that said, with CONVENTIONAL 20W50 VR1, my oil temps never get above 200F with a regular size BM cooler (forgot the exact size but it's not big by any means), and I never saw them about ~250 without the cooler at all.
My previous turbo car, a TT C5 Corvette that made similar HP saw about 220F for oil temps.
In your case, I'd try a new sending unit/gauge and go from there. Either the gauge is off or something is WAY wrong in the engine.
EDIT-took a closer look at the thread (as others did too)-they aren't as hot as you first made them out to be, but 280-300 is still VERY hot after a 1/4 mile pass. I'd still investigate and run the best oil you can in the meantime.
What the [censored] are you driving??
Mitsubishi Evolution. Turbocharged 4G63 running on E85. 33psi is low boost, 40 on high.
Originally Posted By: TurboTravis
Something is WAY wrong here...
My street car makes ~800hp at the crank and ~900 at the crank from 122 cubic inches, so I'm making DOUBLE the hp/ci of the car in question.
With that said, with CONVENTIONAL 20W50 VR1, my oil temps never get above 200F with a regular size BM cooler (forgot the exact size but it's not big by any means), and I never saw them about ~250 without the cooler at all.
My previous turbo car, a TT C5 Corvette that made similar HP saw about 220F for oil temps.
In your case, I'd try a new sending unit/gauge and go from there. Either the gauge is off or something is WAY wrong in the engine.
EDIT-took a closer look at the thread (as others did too)-they aren't as hot as you first made them out to be, but 280-300 is still VERY hot after a 1/4 mile pass. I'd still investigate and run the best oil you can in the meantime.
What the [censored] are you driving??
Mitsubishi Evolution. Turbocharged 4G63 running on E85. 33psi is low boost, 40 on high.
Quote:
280-300 is still VERY hot after a 1/4 mile pass.
Critical difference between your EVO and the GN: After staging, she is hard on the brakes while loading the engine against the converter to build boost...the heavy load with no airflow through the grille heats the oil quickly. (I have also seen it adds 15 degrees coolant temp in thirty seconds.)
280-300 is still VERY hot after a 1/4 mile pass.
Critical difference between your EVO and the GN: After staging, she is hard on the brakes while loading the engine against the converter to build boost...the heavy load with no airflow through the grille heats the oil quickly. (I have also seen it adds 15 degrees coolant temp in thirty seconds.)
1) can your wife spend some time with my girlfriend?
2) I run Redline in my supercharged BMW, granted at 440rwhp from 2.8L it is darn good, but nowhere close to the numbers that monster is making. However, after many track days and auto-x events, and 10k miles (post-install) we tore down the engine to see how all the new internals were holding up. It was absolutely pristine inside, both in terms of cleanliness and in terms of the engine showing almost zero wear. Ran RL Break-In oil for a bit but since then it has seen Royal Purple on the street and RL on the track.
I could not be happier with the results.
Royal Purple XPS may be worth a try, with its insane levels of ZDDP... I could care less about emissions damage since I do not have cats on it (although I have a pair of 100cell Fabspeed metallic cats sitting around).
2) I run Redline in my supercharged BMW, granted at 440rwhp from 2.8L it is darn good, but nowhere close to the numbers that monster is making. However, after many track days and auto-x events, and 10k miles (post-install) we tore down the engine to see how all the new internals were holding up. It was absolutely pristine inside, both in terms of cleanliness and in terms of the engine showing almost zero wear. Ran RL Break-In oil for a bit but since then it has seen Royal Purple on the street and RL on the track.
I could not be happier with the results.
Royal Purple XPS may be worth a try, with its insane levels of ZDDP... I could care less about emissions damage since I do not have cats on it (although I have a pair of 100cell Fabspeed metallic cats sitting around).
Get a nice clean container and put this in the sump to go to the track with:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=17&pcid=1
And take it out when you get back home! Run M1 15w50 for day-to-day driving.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=17&pcid=1
And take it out when you get back home! Run M1 15w50 for day-to-day driving.
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