Halogen headlight recommendation

Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
23,877
Location
NH
I threw a set of Sylvania Basic 9003 (aka H4) into my '99 Camry like 5 years ago. It has DRL's and so they are on whenever the car is moving; I'd guess 1,500 hours? Made the mistake of taking our '21 Camry out last night, and... now I see why my wife refuses to drive my car.

Am I going to see a drastic difference if I go and buy expensive halogens? I mean, they're all limited to the same wattage (assuming DOT compliance). I did give in and tried to polish the headlights a year ago, IMO it didn't do anything. They were replaced 10 or so years ago, not sure with what, so replacement housings isn't out of the question--but I'm not sure if that is going to drastically change things, they aren't that yellow.
 
that's he was saying

I don't think that same old halogen would do any better in your old Camry

why not use some more advanced bulbs to your Camry, you got to experiment with it a bit
 
I killed the DRLs in my 99 camry, unplug the obvious plug by the passenger strut tower.

These headlights are horrible, but if you can get a 2000-2001 front clip, it has improved lights with discrete bulbs and reflectors for high & low beams.

Bulbs are limited to the same wattage but can be more efficient if overdriven-- this is how the premium bulbs give off more light for the same energy. The downfall is they burn out faster.

Incidentally I backprobed my headlight sockets and found very nearly alternator voltage there... 14.x volts. Not worth a wiring upgrade IMO.
 
I killed the DRLs in my 99 camry, unplug the obvious plug by the passenger strut tower.
Will go look for that, didn't know it was that easy...

These headlights are horrible, but if you can get a 2000-2001 front clip, it has improved lights with discrete bulbs and reflectors for high & low beams.
Not a bad idea, maybe I'll keep an eye out for someone parting one out.

Incidentally I backprobed my headlight sockets and found very nearly alternator voltage there... 14.x volts. Not worth a wiring upgrade IMO.
I didn't want to go this route, but since you did the legwork--thanks for the knowledge! Now I know I don't have to look at that aspect.

Your 2021 Camry may have LED headlights!
It certainly does. :) That, along with being much newer (and nicer) is why I try to avoid driving it...

why not use some more advanced bulbs to your Camry, you got to experiment with it a bit
Debating it. Small money to try something better, hence the question, although dropping say $100 for 10% better is... as Paul Harrell says, two times nothing is still nothing.
 
are the headlight housings similar from the 19 to the 21?


maybe you simpy buy some plug and play LEDs lights, but definitely do some research, some are better then others.


I don't have anything LED yet but I've been pondering trying some in my summer car
 
New bulbs will be brighter than old bulbs. Also, long-life bulbs already start out dimmer, and they get even more so over time.

The DRL is probably the high beam run at low voltage, as was common in 1999 for cars that had DRL :unsure:

Consider the Silverstar Ultra (orange package) or the Osram Night Breaker, Philips Xtreme Vision or Nightguide Platinum, or GE/Tungsram Nighthawk Xenon
 
I threw a set of Sylvania Basic 9003 (aka H4) into my '99 Camry like 5 years ago. It has DRL's and so they are on whenever the car is moving; I'd guess 1,500 hours? Made the mistake of taking our '21 Camry out last night, and... now I see why my wife refuses to drive my car.

Am I going to see a drastic difference if I go and buy expensive halogens? I mean, they're all limited to the same wattage (assuming DOT compliance). I did give in and tried to polish the headlights a year ago, IMO it didn't do anything. They were replaced 10 or so years ago, not sure with what, so replacement housings isn't out of the question--but I'm not sure if that is going to drastically change things, they aren't that yellow.
The most efficient halogen bulbs are philips extreme vision. They make a set without any blue coating. They are the brightest and most efficient halogen bulbs you can buy short of higher wattage but that means upgrading wiring and heat dissipation.
 
The most efficient halogen bulbs are philips extreme vision. They make a set without any blue coating. They are the brightest and most efficient halogen bulbs you can buy short of higher wattage but that means upgrading wiring and heat dissipation.
Thanks, will check those out.
 
My 2007 F150 still has the factory bulbs in it. My truck is 16 years old and every time I hit the road, I always turn my lights on. I think Sylvania makes them (5C3Z-13N021-AA).
 
There are two factors at work. The lenses and reflectors do deteriorate with age. Bulbs do as well. Fresh bulbs help. I have found all the higher output bulbs have considerably shorter life in my experience. But if you are okay with that, give them a try. There are lots of testing videos on youtube you can watch and study. LED can be an option, but very dependent on design to get adequate output and beam pattern (and not blind oncoming drivers with scatter).
 
Don't expect any drastic differences.

Headlights work as a system, and every component degrades over time. The lenses and reflectors lose their clarity and reflectivity, and the light sources weaken, even if imperceptibly. Human eyeballs are no substitutes for actual instruments, or a light tunnel, despite what the internet lighting experimenters contend.

Performance is the ultimate metric, and even brand new systems can be mediocre straight out of the factory.

Installing fresh bulbs will recoup some of the lost performance, but only with respect to them, and not the other parts.

The premium "plus" bulbs achieve better performance through improved gas mixtures, and a tighter, hotter filament with better focus. They are not overdriven, use more power, or produce more output than specified by the regulations (which allow for +/- 15% tolerance). They would not be compliant, or road legal if they were.

However, there is no free lunch, and they trade better perfornance for reduced lifetime. In truth, every bulb has a finite life, and should not be considered a "lifetime" component, even if they can still function with no apparent issues in a "no problems" manner.

Not surprisingly, the marketing is deceptive, and what began with "plus-30" has gone all the way up to "plus-200" in the newest guises, but that figure does not reference output, but nebulous "more light on the road," "brightness," or other claims. And none of that takes into account the fixtures they're used in, which play a vital role in performance.

That said, if you're willing to try them, H4 is a common application, so there are options to choose from the reputable brands like Philips, Osram/Sylvania, or Tungsram (GE). But keep in mind that some reputable names, like Hella, Bosch, and Wagner, don't manufacture bulbs, they source them from others.

Just avoid the stuff with fully-tinted glass (the partial ones with color tips, or other exposed areas are OK), and consider deactiving the DRLs, or be prepared to replace more often, especially with the premium bulbs aimed at performance, not durability.
 
Last edited:
The most efficient halogen bulbs are philips extreme vision. They make a set without any blue coating. They are the brightest and most efficient halogen bulbs you can buy short of higher wattage but that means upgrading wiring and heat dissipation.


I just want to say 97 you have some really really good and helpful posts on here.

I really appreciate your help and knowledge on here man.

You are awesome captain.
 
The premium "plus" bulbs achieve better performance through improved gas mixtures, and a tighter, hotter filament with better focus. They are not overdriven, use more power, or produce more output than specified by the regulations (which allow for +/- 15% tolerance). They would not be compliant, or road legal if they were.

However, there is no free lunch, and they trade better perfornance for reduced lifetime. In truth, every bulb has a finite life, and should not be considered a "lifetime" component, even if they can still function with no apparent issues in a "no problems" manner.
They are overdriven, that's how they burn out faster. A filament designed for 2000 hours at 11.5 volts will last 200 at 14.2, but be pretty bright doing it.
 
Back
Top