Grease for calpier slide pins and contact points?
- Thread starter demarpaint
- Start date
NAPA sylglde, always used this with excellent results.
Originally Posted By: Petersubaru
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I didn't even know they made a special grease just for caliper bolts. I've always just used a good high temp grease.
..most of the cars in my families stable are fine with the silicone and synthetic perma products..but..if you have the rubber "dust" boots that actually grip around the "shaft of the caliper bolt" (not just below the head) like on the newer 2000+ subarus and some pontiacs (the only cars I am familliar with), the silcone or permatex products will not do the job for the long run..these types of greases don't mix well(developes unnecessary friction or welling) with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causeing the caliper pin to hydraulic causeing the surface of the rotor to become tarnished..I was made aware of this when I bought my 2001 subi with 42k/mi, since it was dealer serviced being still under warr, by this time the rotors had been re-surfaced 2 times with 3 new sets of pads..even after my purchase shortly again the rotors and pads needed replaceing..the caliper pins were locking up and a [censored] too pull them out even though they were not one bit rusty..to make this long story short..the proper grease if the mechanics are ware of it(most are not) can not be purchased any more, at least for the consumer..so I use this product in small amounts and all works as it is designed too.. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/FUCHS - TDS/RENOLIT RED RUBBER GREASE.pdf
This is exactly what happens on my Toyotas. I've used green and purple Permatex, and CRC synthetic brake greases that say 'rubber-safe' 'use on pins' but after awhile, the rubber swells and the pins lock. The CRC products seems better that the Permatex products. The CRC product even says that 'silicon brake greases are bad for rubber parts.' The only one that does seem to work well, is the Toyota pink brake grease that comes with the Toyota caliper rebuild kits. It says "silicone lube' on the label. I'd like to know why all of these 'rubber-safe' brake greases are not rubber safe and swell the rubber after a couple months. Funny thing, the old 2002 Corolla does not have this problem.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I didn't even know they made a special grease just for caliper bolts. I've always just used a good high temp grease.
..most of the cars in my families stable are fine with the silicone and synthetic perma products..but..if you have the rubber "dust" boots that actually grip around the "shaft of the caliper bolt" (not just below the head) like on the newer 2000+ subarus and some pontiacs (the only cars I am familliar with), the silcone or permatex products will not do the job for the long run..these types of greases don't mix well(developes unnecessary friction or welling) with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causeing the caliper pin to hydraulic causeing the surface of the rotor to become tarnished..I was made aware of this when I bought my 2001 subi with 42k/mi, since it was dealer serviced being still under warr, by this time the rotors had been re-surfaced 2 times with 3 new sets of pads..even after my purchase shortly again the rotors and pads needed replaceing..the caliper pins were locking up and a [censored] too pull them out even though they were not one bit rusty..to make this long story short..the proper grease if the mechanics are ware of it(most are not) can not be purchased any more, at least for the consumer..so I use this product in small amounts and all works as it is designed too.. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/FUCHS - TDS/RENOLIT RED RUBBER GREASE.pdf
This is exactly what happens on my Toyotas. I've used green and purple Permatex, and CRC synthetic brake greases that say 'rubber-safe' 'use on pins' but after awhile, the rubber swells and the pins lock. The CRC products seems better that the Permatex products. The CRC product even says that 'silicon brake greases are bad for rubber parts.' The only one that does seem to work well, is the Toyota pink brake grease that comes with the Toyota caliper rebuild kits. It says "silicone lube' on the label. I'd like to know why all of these 'rubber-safe' brake greases are not rubber safe and swell the rubber after a couple months. Funny thing, the old 2002 Corolla does not have this problem.
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I say bull hockey on some of this discussion.
Silicone is safe on most "rubbers" and is recommended in the re-building of calipers. The one type of rubber you don't want to use silicone lube on is silicone rubber * .....go figure. Also, avoid silicone lubricants that contain other oils.....some spray can types.
* http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/grease/NP-Silicone-Grease-NLGI-3.pdf
As for the "with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causing the caliper pin to hydraulic"? What does this mean, to hydraulic.
Ford Escorts had lower brake caliper pins that were entirely "encased" by the rubber bushing. What happened with them is that moisture seeped in between the outside of the bushing and the caliper casting, rust developed there that pushed in on the rubber, seizing the pin.
Notice the Motorcraft SILICONE brake grease
On the other hand, maybe some of these auto manufacturers above ARE using inferior "rubber" formulations.
Silicone is safe on most "rubbers" and is recommended in the re-building of calipers. The one type of rubber you don't want to use silicone lube on is silicone rubber * .....go figure. Also, avoid silicone lubricants that contain other oils.....some spray can types.
* http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/grease/NP-Silicone-Grease-NLGI-3.pdf
As for the "with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causing the caliper pin to hydraulic"? What does this mean, to hydraulic.
Ford Escorts had lower brake caliper pins that were entirely "encased" by the rubber bushing. What happened with them is that moisture seeped in between the outside of the bushing and the caliper casting, rust developed there that pushed in on the rubber, seizing the pin.
Notice the Motorcraft SILICONE brake grease
On the other hand, maybe some of these auto manufacturers above ARE using inferior "rubber" formulations.
Originally Posted By: Stooge
Originally Posted By: Petersubaru
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I didn't even know they made a special grease just for caliper bolts. I've always just used a good high temp grease.
..most of the cars in my families stable are fine with the silicone and synthetic perma products..but..if you have the rubber "dust" boots that actually grip around the "shaft of the caliper bolt" (not just below the head) like on the newer 2000+ subarus and some pontiacs (the only cars I am familliar with), the silcone or permatex products will not do the job for the long run..these types of greases don't mix well(developes unnecessary friction or welling) with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causeing the caliper pin to hydraulic causeing the surface of the rotor to become tarnished..I was made aware of this when I bought my 2001 subi with 42k/mi, since it was dealer serviced being still under warr, by this time the rotors had been re-surfaced 2 times with 3 new sets of pads..even after my purchase shortly again the rotors and pads needed replaceing..the caliper pins were locking up and a [censored] too pull them out even though they were not one bit rusty..to make this long story short..the proper grease if the mechanics are ware of it(most are not) can not be purchased any more, at least for the consumer..so I use this product in small amounts and all works as it is designed too.. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/FUCHS - TDS/RENOLIT RED RUBBER GREASE.pdf
This is exactly what happens on my Toyotas. I've used green and purple Permatex, and CRC synthetic brake greases that say 'rubber-safe' 'use on pins' but after awhile, the rubber swells and the pins lock. The CRC products seems better that the Permatex products. The CRC product even says that 'silicon brake greases are bad for rubber parts.' The only one that does seem to work well, is the Toyota pink brake grease that comes with the Toyota caliper rebuild kits. It says "silicone lube' on the label. I'd like to know why all of these 'rubber-safe' brake greases are not rubber safe and swell the rubber after a couple months. Funny thing, the old 2002 Corolla does not have this problem.
...the simple fact is, that the so called "rubber safe grease" can not be used for rebuilding, making it useless for our application..seems the only way to get the proper grease is having to order up the caliper repair kit and use that grease to lub up your pins..an expensive way to obtain the correct grease, be it toyota, honda, subi..even ford and gm have on some cars the need for this grease...concerning your 2002 corolla, next time look closely and compare the boots on how it surrounds the caliper pin..also the pins that require the pink/red grease have tighter tolerances then calipers with the old style boot..
Originally Posted By: Petersubaru
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I didn't even know they made a special grease just for caliper bolts. I've always just used a good high temp grease.
..most of the cars in my families stable are fine with the silicone and synthetic perma products..but..if you have the rubber "dust" boots that actually grip around the "shaft of the caliper bolt" (not just below the head) like on the newer 2000+ subarus and some pontiacs (the only cars I am familliar with), the silcone or permatex products will not do the job for the long run..these types of greases don't mix well(developes unnecessary friction or welling) with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causeing the caliper pin to hydraulic causeing the surface of the rotor to become tarnished..I was made aware of this when I bought my 2001 subi with 42k/mi, since it was dealer serviced being still under warr, by this time the rotors had been re-surfaced 2 times with 3 new sets of pads..even after my purchase shortly again the rotors and pads needed replaceing..the caliper pins were locking up and a [censored] too pull them out even though they were not one bit rusty..to make this long story short..the proper grease if the mechanics are ware of it(most are not) can not be purchased any more, at least for the consumer..so I use this product in small amounts and all works as it is designed too.. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/FUCHS - TDS/RENOLIT RED RUBBER GREASE.pdf
This is exactly what happens on my Toyotas. I've used green and purple Permatex, and CRC synthetic brake greases that say 'rubber-safe' 'use on pins' but after awhile, the rubber swells and the pins lock. The CRC products seems better that the Permatex products. The CRC product even says that 'silicon brake greases are bad for rubber parts.' The only one that does seem to work well, is the Toyota pink brake grease that comes with the Toyota caliper rebuild kits. It says "silicone lube' on the label. I'd like to know why all of these 'rubber-safe' brake greases are not rubber safe and swell the rubber after a couple months. Funny thing, the old 2002 Corolla does not have this problem.
...the simple fact is, that the so called "rubber safe grease" can not be used for rebuilding, making it useless for our application..seems the only way to get the proper grease is having to order up the caliper repair kit and use that grease to lub up your pins..an expensive way to obtain the correct grease, be it toyota, honda, subi..even ford and gm have on some cars the need for this grease...concerning your 2002 corolla, next time look closely and compare the boots on how it surrounds the caliper pin..also the pins that require the pink/red grease have tighter tolerances then calipers with the old style boot..
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I say bull hockey on some of this discussion.
Silicone is safe on most "rubbers" and is recommended in the re-building of calipers. The one type of rubber you don't want to use silicone lube on is silicone rubber.....go figure. Also, avoid silicone lubricants that contain other oils.....some spray can types.
As for the "with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causing the caliper pin to hydraulic"? What does this mean, to hydraulic.
Ford Escorts had lower brake caliper pins that were entirely "encased" by the rubber bushing. What happened with them is that moisture seeped in between the outside of the bushing and the caliper casting, rust developed there that pushed in on the rubber, seizing the pin.
On the other hand, maybe some of these auto manufacturers ARE using inferior "rubber" formulations.
..the Ford escort is of a different design then the problems described above and No,the auto manuf. are not useing inferior rubber(but maybe different material that looks like rubber)..but the design of the boot that the pin goes thru is different from the older design of dust boots..the newer design boot grips or surrounds the pin more fully and at one end of the boot, has small wedges or teeth inside of them ... when applying the grease(even napas slylube or any so called brake lub)all will slide perfectly in the beginning..but within a short time, for what ever reason, will start to bind up..like there was never any grease added in the first place between two moving parts...now to "hydraulic" the pin is to cause the pin to develope a vacuum within the caliper pin chamber that is so strong that it prevents the pads from sufficiently moving away from the rotor(no more clean surface)..in some cases it takes a strong arm and vise grips to pull the pin out even after 1 week of haveing your brakes repaired...thus the reason, if you believe this or not, is to have the recommended rubber grease..problimatic to find
I say bull hockey on some of this discussion.
Silicone is safe on most "rubbers" and is recommended in the re-building of calipers. The one type of rubber you don't want to use silicone lube on is silicone rubber.....go figure. Also, avoid silicone lubricants that contain other oils.....some spray can types.
As for the "with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causing the caliper pin to hydraulic"? What does this mean, to hydraulic.
Ford Escorts had lower brake caliper pins that were entirely "encased" by the rubber bushing. What happened with them is that moisture seeped in between the outside of the bushing and the caliper casting, rust developed there that pushed in on the rubber, seizing the pin.
On the other hand, maybe some of these auto manufacturers ARE using inferior "rubber" formulations.
..the Ford escort is of a different design then the problems described above and No,the auto manuf. are not useing inferior rubber(but maybe different material that looks like rubber)..but the design of the boot that the pin goes thru is different from the older design of dust boots..the newer design boot grips or surrounds the pin more fully and at one end of the boot, has small wedges or teeth inside of them ... when applying the grease(even napas slylube or any so called brake lub)all will slide perfectly in the beginning..but within a short time, for what ever reason, will start to bind up..like there was never any grease added in the first place between two moving parts...now to "hydraulic" the pin is to cause the pin to develope a vacuum within the caliper pin chamber that is so strong that it prevents the pads from sufficiently moving away from the rotor(no more clean surface)..in some cases it takes a strong arm and vise grips to pull the pin out even after 1 week of haveing your brakes repaired...thus the reason, if you believe this or not, is to have the recommended rubber grease..problimatic to find
Thank you for following up Petersubaru. Too many 14 hr. work days are making me cranky (spring digging/planting season is all mucked up because we are 3 weeks ahead in degree days).
I obviously don't understand the brake caliper bushing you described and after the edit time elapsed, I realized that "different" elastomer is a better description than "inferior"....my bad.
Seems like all auto mfg. throw a curve ball with one engineering decision or another to make life difficult for us. Finding a suitable lube should not be a headache.
Thanks again for clearing up my misunderstanding.....nice answer.
I obviously don't understand the brake caliper bushing you described and after the edit time elapsed, I realized that "different" elastomer is a better description than "inferior"....my bad.
Seems like all auto mfg. throw a curve ball with one engineering decision or another to make life difficult for us. Finding a suitable lube should not be a headache.
Thanks again for clearing up my misunderstanding.....nice answer.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Thank you for following up Petersubaru. Too many 14 hr. work days are making me cranky (spring digging/planting season is all mucked up because we are 3 weeks ahead in degree days).
I obviously don't understand the brake caliper bushing you described and after the edit time elapsed, I realized that "different" elastomer is a better description than "inferior"....my bad.
Seems like all auto mfg. throw a curve ball with one engineering decision or another to make life difficult for us. Finding a suitable lube should not be a headache.
Thanks again for clearing up my misunderstanding.....nice answer.
..I suspect that the "curve ball" is to make it more difficult and frustrating for the do it yourselfers like me..in other words, I see no other reason for the design change...doing brake work on ones own car is an easy way to make the job pay for your labor..unfortunately most shops do not carry the proper grease and for one shop that a friend of mine works for has a continuation of returning customers complaining of brake problems..all "grease" related..he said the owner of this independant shop does Not care..easy to do because he blames the manuf. but provides no solution and he does not have too because most dealers are not helpful either..I guess it's his way to build a customer base since the customer does not know any better...
Thank you for following up Petersubaru. Too many 14 hr. work days are making me cranky (spring digging/planting season is all mucked up because we are 3 weeks ahead in degree days).
I obviously don't understand the brake caliper bushing you described and after the edit time elapsed, I realized that "different" elastomer is a better description than "inferior"....my bad.
Seems like all auto mfg. throw a curve ball with one engineering decision or another to make life difficult for us. Finding a suitable lube should not be a headache.
Thanks again for clearing up my misunderstanding.....nice answer.
..I suspect that the "curve ball" is to make it more difficult and frustrating for the do it yourselfers like me..in other words, I see no other reason for the design change...doing brake work on ones own car is an easy way to make the job pay for your labor..unfortunately most shops do not carry the proper grease and for one shop that a friend of mine works for has a continuation of returning customers complaining of brake problems..all "grease" related..he said the owner of this independant shop does Not care..easy to do because he blames the manuf. but provides no solution and he does not have too because most dealers are not helpful either..I guess it's his way to build a customer base since the customer does not know any better...
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I say bull hockey on some of this discussion.
Silicone is safe on most "rubbers" and is recommended in the re-building of calipers. The one type of rubber you don't want to use silicone lube on is silicone rubber * .....go figure. Also, avoid silicone lubricants that contain other oils.....some spray can types.
* http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/grease/NP-Silicone-Grease-NLGI-3.pdf
As for the "with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causing the caliper pin to hydraulic"? What does this mean, to hydraulic.
Ford Escorts had lower brake caliper pins that were entirely "encased" by the rubber bushing. What happened with them is that moisture seeped in between the outside of the bushing and the caliper casting, rust developed there that pushed in on the rubber, seizing the pin.
Notice the Motorcraft SILICONE brake grease
On the other hand, maybe some of these auto manufacturers above ARE using inferior "rubber" formulations.
..I use that Ford branded grease at my daughters request for her '02 lincoln..works as designed too..
I say bull hockey on some of this discussion.
Silicone is safe on most "rubbers" and is recommended in the re-building of calipers. The one type of rubber you don't want to use silicone lube on is silicone rubber * .....go figure. Also, avoid silicone lubricants that contain other oils.....some spray can types.
* http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/grease/NP-Silicone-Grease-NLGI-3.pdf
As for the "with the rubber boots and will start to bind up in a very short time causing the caliper pin to hydraulic"? What does this mean, to hydraulic.
Ford Escorts had lower brake caliper pins that were entirely "encased" by the rubber bushing. What happened with them is that moisture seeped in between the outside of the bushing and the caliper casting, rust developed there that pushed in on the rubber, seizing the pin.
Notice the Motorcraft SILICONE brake grease
On the other hand, maybe some of these auto manufacturers above ARE using inferior "rubber" formulations.
..I use that Ford branded grease at my daughters request for her '02 lincoln..works as designed too..
..But.. for the cadillac and other higher end gm vehicles.."niglube" (japanesse version of rubber grease)must be used on the updated version of the caliper pins..read near the bottom of the page in this article.. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/482423-post30.html and then more confusion on a honda site.. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1948126
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Oh man. If the brake caliper grease goes the way that engine coolants have gone, there's going to be lots of problems for the grease monkeys that grab "any ol' grease that's handy" to get the job done.
"New" bushing/seal technology that requires one, and only one type of grease.......Sucks. Thanks for enlightening us.
"New" bushing/seal technology that requires one, and only one type of grease.......Sucks. Thanks for enlightening us.
"A specially developed synthetic grease with a high-tech formula for use in disc & drum brake systems. High temperature grease is plastic & rubber safe. Use on metal to metal contact points and sliding surfaces. Resists moisture and will not washout."
http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?S=Y&PN=05351
the "synthetic" is actually PAO oil in the grease which makes it plastic and rubber safe, as opposed to a petroleum based oil in the grease. It also has moly and graphite as solid lubricants to help with lubrication under high temps.
I use the CRC one above, there's also 2 from permatex below. One is the same as the CRC, and permatex also has a silicone/moly formula. The key is using an oil/lube that is rubber/plastic safe under high temps, because the boot seals and caliper piston seals are rubber which are what is compatible with dot3 brake fluid which glycol based. And it's either a PAO/ester based grease or a silicone based grease. The few brakes I've done or seen, including my 02 camaro and 05 altima have had silicone lube, and if I had to guess it's cheaper and greenier to use that but I think the PAO based grease is better. I would not use regular grease especially if it was not an EP grease with moly because it will probably cook and fail to lubricate when the brakes get hot. Anti-sieze would be a good choice but I do not know if the oils in it would be detrimental to rubber & plastic. And this is not high tech science here, use one or the other and if you're using a grease with a different base then just clean the old stuff out- it's just a slide pin
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/24110.pdf
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/24115.pdf
http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?S=Y&PN=05351
the "synthetic" is actually PAO oil in the grease which makes it plastic and rubber safe, as opposed to a petroleum based oil in the grease. It also has moly and graphite as solid lubricants to help with lubrication under high temps.
I use the CRC one above, there's also 2 from permatex below. One is the same as the CRC, and permatex also has a silicone/moly formula. The key is using an oil/lube that is rubber/plastic safe under high temps, because the boot seals and caliper piston seals are rubber which are what is compatible with dot3 brake fluid which glycol based. And it's either a PAO/ester based grease or a silicone based grease. The few brakes I've done or seen, including my 02 camaro and 05 altima have had silicone lube, and if I had to guess it's cheaper and greenier to use that but I think the PAO based grease is better. I would not use regular grease especially if it was not an EP grease with moly because it will probably cook and fail to lubricate when the brakes get hot. Anti-sieze would be a good choice but I do not know if the oils in it would be detrimental to rubber & plastic. And this is not high tech science here, use one or the other and if you're using a grease with a different base then just clean the old stuff out- it's just a slide pin
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/24110.pdf
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/24115.pdf
I've used all of those greases suggested by 1 FMF (see my previous post). They swell the rubber seals exactly as marksubaru said. My 2002 Toyota Sequoia rear brake pins with rubber seals and my 2007 Toyota Rav4 front brake pins swell the rubber seals with all of these greases and only the pink Toyota grease that comes with the caliper rebuild kits work here. However, my 2002 Corolla front brake rubber sealed brake pins do not swell using the CRC and/or Permatex products. Nor does my 2002 Hodra VFR motorcycle rubber lined sliding caliper pins. The CRC products statement is wrong, it is not compatible with all rubber. I too many bad experiences to prove it. My advice if you use these products, check that the brake pins are not seized every tire rotation (5K).
Originally Posted By: Stooge
I've used all of those greases suggested by 1 FMF (see my previous post). They swell the rubber seals exactly as marksubaru said. My 2002 Toyota Sequoia rear brake pins with rubber seals and my 2007 Toyota Rav4 front brake pins swell the rubber seals with all of these greases and only the pink Toyota grease that comes with the caliper rebuild kits work here. However, my 2002 Corolla front brake rubber sealed brake pins do not swell using the CRC and/or Permatex products. Nor does my 2002 Hodra VFR motorcycle rubber lined sliding caliper pins. The CRC products statement is wrong, it is not compatible with all rubber. I too many bad experiences to prove it. My advice if you use these products, check that the brake pins are not seized every tire rotation (5K).
Glad to know I'm not alone in my findings. I know most ppl here are anal when it comes to maintenance, and that is fine, but I do not believe 6-7 months is enough of a service life on a caliper grease product before it needs re-application..
I am talking about the Permatex green stuff. I used it on my Saturn back at the end of summer last year, and when I took the front brakes apart to inspect after some odd noises, found the pins were almost seized. No rips in the boots, just almost no lubrication left.
For what its worth, my Saturn uses one metal on metal caliper pin, and one that is housed in a full rubber bushing. Both were not in good shape.
Now on a quest to find a caliper grease that actually works without needing re-application twice a year (should not be that frequent!!!)
I've used all of those greases suggested by 1 FMF (see my previous post). They swell the rubber seals exactly as marksubaru said. My 2002 Toyota Sequoia rear brake pins with rubber seals and my 2007 Toyota Rav4 front brake pins swell the rubber seals with all of these greases and only the pink Toyota grease that comes with the caliper rebuild kits work here. However, my 2002 Corolla front brake rubber sealed brake pins do not swell using the CRC and/or Permatex products. Nor does my 2002 Hodra VFR motorcycle rubber lined sliding caliper pins. The CRC products statement is wrong, it is not compatible with all rubber. I too many bad experiences to prove it. My advice if you use these products, check that the brake pins are not seized every tire rotation (5K).
Glad to know I'm not alone in my findings. I know most ppl here are anal when it comes to maintenance, and that is fine, but I do not believe 6-7 months is enough of a service life on a caliper grease product before it needs re-application..
I am talking about the Permatex green stuff. I used it on my Saturn back at the end of summer last year, and when I took the front brakes apart to inspect after some odd noises, found the pins were almost seized. No rips in the boots, just almost no lubrication left.
For what its worth, my Saturn uses one metal on metal caliper pin, and one that is housed in a full rubber bushing. Both were not in good shape.
Now on a quest to find a caliper grease that actually works without needing re-application twice a year (should not be that frequent!!!)
Something not right here.Maybe Subaru has some issue but i have used the CRC and Permatex purple and green on my own Infinity,Toyotas,and my own Honda bikes as well as customer cars and bikes of almost every make for years without issue.
My Honda bike had 100K on the clock and had the original pins in all calipers that were perfect.
IMHO if this were as well known as its being made out to be the manufacturers of these products would have problems.
We don't do Subaru but on hundreds of brake jobs over years we just don't see this happening.
The only reason i can think of if this happening in some applications is some sort of reaction between the new and remnants of the old grease.We do clean the pin bores and pins
spotlessly clean before applying lube.
My Honda bike had 100K on the clock and had the original pins in all calipers that were perfect.
IMHO if this were as well known as its being made out to be the manufacturers of these products would have problems.
We don't do Subaru but on hundreds of brake jobs over years we just don't see this happening.
The only reason i can think of if this happening in some applications is some sort of reaction between the new and remnants of the old grease.We do clean the pin bores and pins
spotlessly clean before applying lube.
I have usually apply Sil-Glyde when I install pads and the caliper still slides freely at the end of the pads life, often 2-3 years.
Originally Posted By: labman
I have usually apply Sil-Glyde when I install pads and the caliper still slides freely at the end of the pads life, often 2-3 years.
Do any of these cars use rubber bushings for the slide pin itself?
I have usually apply Sil-Glyde when I install pads and the caliper still slides freely at the end of the pads life, often 2-3 years.
Do any of these cars use rubber bushings for the slide pin itself?
Originally Posted By: lpboole
Dielectric grease doesn't swell the rubber bushings and has always worked well for me. No calipers sticking ever when I have used it.
Yeah I used it in a jam one time. Suprisgnly it worked the best. Still use it everytime, no siezing.
Dielectric grease doesn't swell the rubber bushings and has always worked well for me. No calipers sticking ever when I have used it.
Yeah I used it in a jam one time. Suprisgnly it worked the best. Still use it everytime, no siezing.
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