FWD, Limited Slip Differential, and Snow

[rpn453]

I'd prefer an LSD in the snow. It's more prone to understeer under power, but that's easy to deal with and you'll get better traction.

If wheel hop is a problem, lowering tire pressure will reduce or eliminate it. I run 28 psi in my Mazda3 to reduce wheel hop to an acceptable level. Or you could stiffen the motor mounts if you don't mind the extra vibration.

 

[1sttruck]

An older Civic with four studded snow tires did fine in snow, on glaze ice, etc., except on deep slushy snow as the tires didn't have enough voiding for that, but chains worked for that. Tried some studless snow tires on an older Taurus, Michelin Alpins, and they also didn't have enough voiding for deeper stuff, but being studless they also didn't work as well on ice close to freezing, but chains worked well for that. We have studded Hakkas on all wheels on a couple of newer Taurii, and so far they're the best winter tire we've used. We still carry chains for the 99 (it doesn't look like there is enough room on the 2006) we haven't had to use them yet.

I run some studded Cooper snow tires on a 4x4 3/4 ton pickup, and while snow isn't a problem as the weight and the tire voiding helps a lot, I have been on ice where it was lightly raining, kind of a slush, and then freezing, and while stopped the truck started sliding towards the edge of the road with the 4 studded tires; I was impressed :^) This was after doing fine on I5 where cars were spinning out around me as it was covered in ice. The weight again helped after I chained up, and the only vehicles I saw on the rest of the way home were larger 4x4s with chains. I live on a 700 ft hill. We get what seems to be some of the worst winter weather around as we've had interstates, airports, railroads shut down, and some roads are chains only if they're not closed, but I still need to get around so I always try to carry chains.

Lighter vehicles with good tires will do better on snow and ice than heavier vehicles, as the snow gets deeper and/or slushier the heavier vehicles with good tires seem to do better, and with chains the heavier vehicles again do better. This last winter a coworker square link chains on all wheels on a Subaru slid off of the road, and in other storms I've overheard people saying the same with chains on their smaller cars and SUVs. From what I've seen traction is most of all a tire and road thing, which the number of driven wheels and other tractions aids can't make up for in some situations. Conditions can change quickly though, so it helps to have 'defense in depth'. Most everyone elses mileage seems to vary, as it definately doesn't seem fashionable to use chains.

 

[unDummy]

If you don't need or want AWD or TCS, then a FWD with an LSD is an excellent choice. You'll also benefit in the rain. No more peglegging from stops.
IMO, there are no negatives to FWD + LSD.
I wish that more FWD vehicles came with it standard.
The bias on most OEM equipped FWD is pretty low so you don't suffer from ANY steering or handling negatives that some might mention.

Enjoy your Civic Si if thats your choice.

 

[gtx510]

Helical (Torsen) diffs don't need FM additives like clutch-type LSD's so the synchro's stay happier.

It's a great design on dry road, probably prety good in the rain, but it'll still spin a tire like an open diff if one side gets on ice (loses traction).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential#Geared_Torque-Sensitive_Differential

 

[Sven]

Quote:

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LSD's aren't too bad in the pucker factor if you've got enough mass over the rear tires ..like your Crown Vic. OTOH, a pickup ..my jeep ..it can take a bit of getting used to. Like when you're on a not too slick a surfaced highway and the rear wheels want to track straight ahead while you're on a curve @ 50 mph

I have a OEM spicer TrakLoc on my 4 banger TJ. I really should have spent the extra money on a TruTrac. My clutch type is kinda static in its effect ..while the TruTrac would have allowed a little non-reactive state (turning, etc.). Hit a patch of ice in a power on situation with my TJ and that back end is swinging in the breeze.

...I don't know about FWD in a snow situation. I can see the problems with a power on turn with king pin inclination (other alignment alterations involved with turning) and see some adaptive techniques being developed. My TJ, with an open front diff, will tend to plow forward in a turn if I'm under too much power (in 4WD). If you're not in close quarters, a blip of the gas will kick the tail end out to correct it, ..but then you're kinda doing target practice. That is, the skill is up to you and not built into the vehicle.

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Say Gary, the only thing better than a Truetrac in the rear of your Jeep is Truetracs FRONT and rear! I have been very happy with them! Only trouble is I replaced my old D-35 rear axle (115K miles) with a Ford Explorer 8.8 with a half-worn out Trackloc (80K miles). I haven't decided what to do about that, yet. The Truetrac is much better both on slippery roads and when off-roading.

 

[gtx510]

The Truetrac looks like a helical diff that does open when you corner/decel. It should handle nicely on tarmac and wouldn't "push" like a normal front LSD would. A clutch-type LSD or locker would be more effective in mud and snow. See my post above about helical's spinning a tire...

http://www.eatonperformance.com/differentials/Detroit-Truetrac.html

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml#TrueTrac

 

[lars11]

Interesting subject! I own a 2002 Grand Cherokee Laredo with open diff axles. There's been some problems taking off in uphill conditions in the winter, and I hate that with a 4wd. Now I found a really cheap new Trac Lok LSD that I intend to put in the rear axle. I understand it is not too aggressive and that you may soften it further by putting in some more LS additive. What do you think? I really only need some more traction so an off road locker is not necessary.
Will this be a dangerous vehicle on winter highways? I live in Sweden and drive Cooper Discoverer M&S with "spikes" all winter season (Nov-March).