Originally Posted By: Farmer
I ordered my filters today.
Baldwin B2 $5 and change
Hastings LF115 $4
That's hard to beat.
I ordered my filters today.
Baldwin B2 $5 and change
Hastings LF115 $4
That's hard to beat.
Filter For A Sludged Engine?
- Thread starter Farmer
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I'm not clear if you are solely relying on high frequency, high-detergent oil changes and filtration to get rid of the sludge, but I'd suggest you first get in there and shovel as much of it out as you can, if you havn't already.
In a similar-sounding scenario I cleaned out the top end with a can, spoon and then a cooks and laboratory spatula, and also physically scraped-out the sump.
Don't think oil would have shifted it
The filter probably doesn't matter much. IF you get a lot of sludge into the oil (which is what you hope to achieve, but may not succeed) it'll probably go into bypass anyway.
In a similar-sounding scenario I cleaned out the top end with a can, spoon and then a cooks and laboratory spatula, and also physically scraped-out the sump.
Don't think oil would have shifted it
The filter probably doesn't matter much. IF you get a lot of sludge into the oil (which is what you hope to achieve, but may not succeed) it'll probably go into bypass anyway.
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
I'm not clear if you are solely relying on high frequency, high-detergent oil changes and filtration to get rid of the sludge, but I'd suggest you first get in there and shovel as much of it out as you can, if you havn't already.
In a similar-sounding scenario I cleaned out the top end with a can, spoon and then a cooks and laboratory spatula, and also physically scraped-out the sump.
Don't think oil would have shifted it
The filter probably doesn't matter much. IF you get a lot of sludge into the oil (which is what you hope to achieve, but may not succeed) it'll probably go into bypass anyway.
Only danger of this route is-you have to plug all the oil drainbacks & get it all out of the top-or you'll clog the pickup. Personally, on an old (probably not worth a lot of $) van, I would just run PYB & a cheap filter for short OCIs & do it gradually.
I'm not clear if you are solely relying on high frequency, high-detergent oil changes and filtration to get rid of the sludge, but I'd suggest you first get in there and shovel as much of it out as you can, if you havn't already.
In a similar-sounding scenario I cleaned out the top end with a can, spoon and then a cooks and laboratory spatula, and also physically scraped-out the sump.
Don't think oil would have shifted it
The filter probably doesn't matter much. IF you get a lot of sludge into the oil (which is what you hope to achieve, but may not succeed) it'll probably go into bypass anyway.
Only danger of this route is-you have to plug all the oil drainbacks & get it all out of the top-or you'll clog the pickup. Personally, on an old (probably not worth a lot of $) van, I would just run PYB & a cheap filter for short OCIs & do it gradually.
To the OP:
I would go to your local Walmart (if you have one near you) and buy their least expensive conventional oil and filters.
Change the oil every 2K miles a few times and call it done.
Some may suggest one of those engine flushes, but that stuff may dislodge crud too quickly and cause some of the oil passages to clog up.
I would go to your local Walmart (if you have one near you) and buy their least expensive conventional oil and filters.
Change the oil every 2K miles a few times and call it done.
Some may suggest one of those engine flushes, but that stuff may dislodge crud too quickly and cause some of the oil passages to clog up.
Originally Posted By: stchman
To the OP:
I would go to your local Walmart (if you have one near you) and buy their least expensive conventional oil and filters.
Change the oil every 2K miles a few times and call it done.
Some may suggest one of those engine flushes, but that stuff may dislodge crud too quickly and cause some of the oil passages to clog up.
Why not go one better - Go to Rock Auto, and buy a dozen of the markdown filters for approximately $1.37 each. They have the Fram PH8A, Champ Labs PH8A, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and about a dozen others, all under $1.40 each.
12 of the Pennzoil PZ1 filter, shipped to my house, total $26.33. That's about $2.19 each. Add 6 MicroGard MGL51515 filters, and the total is $35.01, which is less than $2 each shipped.
Just a thought, but it sounds like you'll be going through a lot of filters. Perfect use case for the RockAuto deals.
To the OP:
I would go to your local Walmart (if you have one near you) and buy their least expensive conventional oil and filters.
Change the oil every 2K miles a few times and call it done.
Some may suggest one of those engine flushes, but that stuff may dislodge crud too quickly and cause some of the oil passages to clog up.
Why not go one better - Go to Rock Auto, and buy a dozen of the markdown filters for approximately $1.37 each. They have the Fram PH8A, Champ Labs PH8A, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and about a dozen others, all under $1.40 each.
12 of the Pennzoil PZ1 filter, shipped to my house, total $26.33. That's about $2.19 each. Add 6 MicroGard MGL51515 filters, and the total is $35.01, which is less than $2 each shipped.
Just a thought, but it sounds like you'll be going through a lot of filters. Perfect use case for the RockAuto deals.
A dozen discounted filters from RA does seem like a good idea.
Run one 500 miles or so to see how dirty they appear and adjust your runs accordingly.
As I have mentioned before, I wouldnt change the oil when replacing the filters with such short runs. Just top it off.
5k OCI's sounds doable especially with all the additive replenishment.
Run one 500 miles or so to see how dirty they appear and adjust your runs accordingly.
As I have mentioned before, I wouldnt change the oil when replacing the filters with such short runs. Just top it off.
5k OCI's sounds doable especially with all the additive replenishment.
I tried the rock auto route. The pricing is way out of hand with the shipping. Even with a post office box in Blaine Washington which is 15 minutes away. Plus the Canadian dollar is not very good.
Walmart pricing on filters is actually more than what I got my Hastings filters for. I have bought PYB at Walmart though. 13.88 / 5qt
Walmart pricing on filters is actually more than what I got my Hastings filters for. I have bought PYB at Walmart though. 13.88 / 5qt
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But your thermostats from the dealer ..oem is usually the best i had drama with napa thermostats in the past
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
But your thermostats from the dealer ..oem is usually the best i had drama with napa thermostats in the past
Napa gladly warrantied my thermostat, I tested it tonight. No more temperature dropping, I was right. It was stuck open a bit.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
^^^ Looks like a good deal for up there in the North.
Prices were per each filter. Still a good deal. Cheaper than buying Fram Orange Cans... <<< Yes this is true. The Hastings and Baldwin filters were cheaper than a orange can.
But your thermostats from the dealer ..oem is usually the best i had drama with napa thermostats in the past
Napa gladly warrantied my thermostat, I tested it tonight. No more temperature dropping, I was right. It was stuck open a bit.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
^^^ Looks like a good deal for up there in the North.
Prices were per each filter. Still a good deal. Cheaper than buying Fram Orange Cans... <<< Yes this is true. The Hastings and Baldwin filters were cheaper than a orange can.
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Where did you get the Baldwins? Here, it's pretty much Acklands-Grainger, at least if I want a good selection, and we all know about their pricing?
Originally Posted By: Garak
Where did you get the Baldwins? Here, it's pretty much Acklands-Grainger, at least if I want a good selection, and we all know about their pricing?
I get them at this place called Alder Auto Parts. It's a small place with only four stores. Many things are competivley priced most times cheaper than most chains.
Where did you get the Baldwins? Here, it's pretty much Acklands-Grainger, at least if I want a good selection, and we all know about their pricing?
I get them at this place called Alder Auto Parts. It's a small place with only four stores. Many things are competivley priced most times cheaper than most chains.
That's handy. I really can't complain about my pricing on Wix, or even the Hastings at Peavey Mart, either.
If I had a engine that had sludge in it I'd run the largest oil filter that I could make fit. I also would try to fine one with a high by-pass pressure spring in it. Then I'd run some very high detergent base oil and change it the first time at around 1000 miles(the oil filter that is). Open it up and see how much sludge if any is in the filter pleats. Then change the filter as needed.
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