Engine temperature going up & down, bad thermosta?

[Warstud]

Originally Posted By: Rohan
I just remember that when the fan is coming on then fan is making the loud noise.

It sounds like you need to replace the fan if it's loud and loose. After all it's what keeps the engine cool at idle....which is the problem. And you can rule that out.

 

[Rohan]

im going to go ahead and replace thermostatic switch, densor upstream 02 sensor and main relay done tomorrow or next day. I'm going to buy thermostatic switch that only said made in Japan I believe BWD brand is made in Japan. Before I do this stuffs I need to check all of the fuses and main relay fuse. If everything go fine after this I will go ahead buy the new fan for the radiator.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: Warstud
Originally Posted By: Rohan
I just remember that when the fan is coming on then fan is making the loud noise.

It sounds like you need to replace the fan if it's loud and loose. After all it's what keeps the engine cool at idle....which is the problem. And you can rule that out.

His problem is not the fan. His fan doesn't start until the engine overheats. Once it starts, the engine cools normally. It's the temperature switch, which determines the temperature at which the fan starts.

 

[Rohan]

Honda OEM switch is $80 plus taxe. Can I go with BWD switch if is made in Japan? I will know tomorrow if BWD brand is made in Japan or not.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: Rohan
Honda OEM switch is $80 plus taxe. Can I go with BWD switch if is made in Japan? I will know tomorrow if BWD brand is made in Japan or not.

You don't need to buy OEM. Get the aftermarket one if you like. If it works, it works. You can even test it using hot water before you install it. All you need is a simple ohmmeter and a thermometer.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Rohan
Honda OEM switch is $80 plus taxe. Can I go with BWD switch if is made in Japan? I will know tomorrow if BWD brand is made in Japan or not.

You don't need to buy OEM. Get the aftermarket one if you like. If it works, it works. You can even test it using hot water before you install it. All you need is a simple ohmmeter and a thermometer.

On the second thought, Honda OEM Nippon Thermostat switch sells for $43 online. I wouldn't take chances with aftermarket switches.

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/...sor.html?PNC=15

 

[Rohan]

Here's the video for the main relay problem;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnx6CCxeQjM

 

[Tosh]

Does this help?
Everything there is to know about your Honda/Acura main relay:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/index.html#blueline
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/badmainrelay.html

 

[Rohan]

It help but I did get my main relay fix and that spot I was talking about burning up on the circuit broad that spot was overheating before I took it off. . I'm gonna put it in tomorrow and also OEM switch from the Honda dealership cost $55. I'm also going to install new Denso oxygen sensor upstream.

 

[Rohan]

Well my P0172 will go away after I install the main relay tomorrow ? So I do not need to buy the new upstream oxygen sensor right? That code came on because of it wasn't getting any fuel from the fuel pump to the engine am I right?

 

[Vikas]

why don't you fix the stuff which is broken, ONE THING AT A TIME?

 

[CBR.worm]

Despite reading every post, I may have missed something. If you drive at 45MPH or so, does the temperature stay normal? This is only a problem at idle?

 

[Rohan]

Okay here's the updated ;

I already installed the Honda OEM thermostatic switch and main relay back in the car, after this cel came back on so I went ahead installed the upstream oxygen sensor and guess what this solve my engine issues. I'm still getting overheating issue at idling , both fan are kicking on at 225F then temperature still rising up to 235F then it will come down. I did bleed the system propley two time. I might bleed the air again and then see what it doing.

 

[Rohan]

Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
Despite reading every post, I may have missed something. If you drive at 45MPH or so, does the temperature stay normal? This is only a problem at idle?


If I stay at 45mph according to my scanner coolant temperature stay there between 190F-195F. The temperature will keep on rising if I'm just idling.

 

[Rohan]

I think my radiator is crack by the underneath where's the radiator cap is. Which radiator should I get? I know someone said OTC brand and I did search for that but can not find the link for it. What OTC stand for? I'm going to take it to the mechanics to verify this if my radiator is crack or not.

 

[Gokhan]

If there is no steam coming, there is no crack.

 

[Gokhan]

The sections at the top and bottom of radiator are called tanks. If there is no steam coming, there is no crack. If there was a crack, you would loose all your coolant in a matter of minutes. I once had a crack on the upper radiator tank while I was driving far from home. I found a plastic bag, got some super glue from a nearby 7/11, and glued a piece of plastic bag on the crack and managed to drive home without the coolant boiling from the crack and without being towed.

Why aren't you fixing your immediate problems first, which are the temperature switch causing the idle overheat and whatever is preventing the engine from starting?

 

[crazyoildude]

oem is usually drama free..

 

[MaximaGuy]

https://www.radiator.com/Shop

I like something that has higher capacity with the same mounting locations..

OEM is unnecessary, some of the OTC radiators much better and made better!!!

 

[Rohan]

@ Gokhan
@ crazyoildude
I already replaced the switch I bought one from Honda dealership.