Did I destroy my engine?

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Nov 16, 2023
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A week ago I did a coolant flush and fill and replaced the thermostat on my 2019 Hyundai Sonata, 4 years old, 62K. After my first trip, once the car had cooled down overnight, the coolant recovery tank was about a cup low, which I expected, as air would be bled out. I topped it off. Since then I’ve taken about 10 trips, and put 450mi on the car. Every couple trips I have to add about 3oz of coolant. I expected by now that I wouldn’t need to do this anymore, and it’s caused me to be concerned. Why?

The initial drain and fill was on a cold engine, but after that, I ran it until it hit operating temp, shut it off, then waiting about 45 min. Things had cooled enough that I could remove the radiator cap, the system wasn’t under pressure. I drained the rad – only about 1.5 qts – and refilled it with distilled water that was about 55 degrees. I closed it up and started the engine. After 10 min I could feel the hoses were warm, so I shut it off and again waited about 45min. I drained the radiator 2 more times, at which point the coolant coming out was pretty diluted, so I then filled it with about 3 qts Prestone concentrate. I checked the coolant in the following days with a plastic/rubber bulb tester, it was reading the correct ratio I was aiming for.

Is there any chance my adding cold water/coolant to a warm system could have damaged something?

The good news: there’s no visible evidence of coolant in the oil. The dipstick and fill cap both look/smell like pure oil. No condensation, bubbles, etc. When I do a cold start, nothing visible comes out of the exhaust pipe. No white or black smoke, no sweet smell. The temp gauge always goes to exactly where it always goes. The car runs perfectly normal.

I did a cold start one morning and inspected all around the thermostat housing (and everywhere else) for any external leaks. No leaks. I don’t know if the system is just continuing to bleed out air, or if I damaged it and it's now going into the oil.

Thoughts?
 
My car does this, either it needs a head gasket or air gets stuck in the heater core and other spots and doesn't bleed out easily because the radiator cap is slightly below a main coolant pipe and the upper radiator hose
 
Does the mfgr call for the cooling system to vacuum filled after servicing it? If so you may still have some air pockets if you just gravity or atmospheric filled it. These open deck 4 cylinders with siamesed cylinder barrel design almost all call for vacuum filling to get all of the air out.
 
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You didn't bleed the cooling system properly
Either buy a spill free funnel, or an airlift type vacuum bleeder
A lot of newer engines (as @Wrenchturner44 mentioned) need a vacuum fill, nothing else will purge all the air

Driving around with an engine that's sensitive to temperature (open deck) with air pockets causing hot spots is an excellent way to cause a failure IMO 😳





Here's the Hyundai service manual procedure for bleeding
What engine do you have?

 
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Well, I sure feel like an idiot for not researching this before I did the job. Thank you SO MUCH for the responses. I have the 2.4 engine, no hybrid. I just read the procedure. I know what I'll be doing tomorrow. The videos were great too. I'll report back. Again, thanks!
 
Well, I sure feel like an idiot for not researching this before I did the job. Thank you SO MUCH for the responses. I have the 2.4 engine, no hybrid. I just read the procedure. I know what I'll be doing tomorrow. The videos were great too. I'll report back. Again, thanks!
Spill free funnels are inexpensive on Amazon

Harbor Freight stocks them too

Try to park nose up when bleeding (ramps even better)
 
Reading the service and/or manuals is key. There might have been a sticker there also.

My boat engine just wants you to run it at 1200 or 1500 RPM to bleed it properly. Not a lot of coolant movement at idle I assume.
 
Not every head gasket failures show up the same way. Sometimes it just warps so slightly that the leak only reveals itself at a certain range of temperature, this is why the amount of coolant lost is so little, bc it only burns it at a certain range of temp.

Some cars with issues like this could go for a long time however, but don't expect things to get better overtime. Something similar happened to my former car (Hyundai Accent)
 
I think I'm out of the woods with this issue. The last time I added a few ounces of coolant was the day before starting this thread. I was planning to do the no-spill funnel process yesterday, but I noticed the level in the recovery tank hadn't moved at all. And unlike before, the coolant in the radiator was filled to the brim when completely cold. I've since taken a few short trips where it got to operating temp and back down, and the level is exactly the same. I believe the air has worked its way out and it's good to go.

Throughout this entire process, the temp gauge never went any higher than shown, which is its normal "hot" position. I probably added a max of 16 oz after the initial fill.
 

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That temperature gauge is probably a dummy and doesn’t fluctuate with reality.

It’s easy to have lots of air trapped. It is pretty dumb to need special tools to top off an engine if low.

Was the correct OE coolant used? Why was the thermostat replaced at 62k, what phenomena inspired that? I’d be more concerned about the problems the engine had been exhibiting that you thought you were going to fix…
 
Chevy has a TSB out for "water rushing noise" behind the dash after starting cold and then driving away. I attributed it to not purging the air properly out of the system since the surge tank never leaked.


The problem with this is the solution is hit or miss. It doesn't really fix anything that isn't broken as nothing is leaking and the noise is not guaranteed to go away even after bleeding the system properly. I had coolant loss that I though was that because of the noise, turns out it was a weeping metal water pump gasket that only leaked when cold & running. It sealed up when everything expanded at operating temp.
 
That temperature gauge is probably a dummy and doesn’t fluctuate with reality.

It’s easy to have lots of air trapped. It is pretty dumb to need special tools to top off an engine if low.

Was the correct OE coolant used? Why was the thermostat replaced at 62k, what phenomena inspired that? I’d be more concerned about the problems the engine had been exhibiting that you thought you were going to fix…
There weren't any problems with the car. In my earlier years as a road warrior I was stranded on the side of the road twice because of locked up thermostats, which has made me a bit leery of trusting them. I changed this one a bit earlier than normal, but with another winter coming, it's cheap insurance.
 
I think if it were me, I would not fill entirely with distilled water, unless I read this wrong. My concern if there is an assumption that one can't truly get everything out (previous cars had drains on the engine block), by filling to a perceived 100% water, how would I ever get it back to 50/50 or back in the day I'd like 55/45 or 60/40. Beyond 60 again it's possible to go over 70% where all bets are off again. Is the concern that water is $2/gal and antifreeze $15? It would seem that one has to waste new antifreeze if they wanted to do a flush. Just like with brake flushes. Some amount of 100% new fluid is wasted in the process.

This could be one of those things where it was the best of intentions, but now it's worse than before. I know with Toyota they don't call it a flush, they call it a drain and fill. With BMW, I've seen the tech roll the machine up to my car, but then again, the system and procedure are different.
 
John105, it's a 7 quart system. About 3 quarts comes out when doing a drain. When you then add full strength coolant, you theorectically are back to 50/50. Using distilled water isn't about saving money, it's about getting out the old coolant. In the Hyundai service manual link above, they recommend repeated drain/fill with distilled water until it comes out clear, then fill with coolant.
Assuming after adding coolant it's back to 50/50, one could always drain the rad one more time and add more coolant, which would increase the percentage. I'm not following what you're saying about it being worse than before.
Anyway, I'm where I want to be as far as the ratio goes, that was never an issue.
 
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