Engine racket after oil change

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rcy

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Car is a 2001 Subaru Outback with the H6. This is the boxer motor for those that don't know Subies. Anyway, bought the car used, runs like a charm, but twice now, after changing the oil there has been a loud 'clacking' for lack of a better word for about 5-10 seconds. I've only heard this noise after changing the oil.

The first time I changed the oil I didn't pre-fill the filter, as it sits horizontally, and I figured some would leak out. I attributed the noise to the dry filter. So the second time (last night) I pre filled the filter, so when I turned it on it's side, a bit of oil began leaking out. However, I got the same clacking when I started the car.

I'm wondering if I should change my oil changing method? I let the oil drain till not even a drop comes out of the drain hole. The drain hole is angled down to the passenger side and since the car is jacked up from the driver's side, I'm guessing even more oil than normal comes out. Should I shorten my drain time, or is there some way to pre-lube the engine before starting it - disable the fuel pump and crank the engine for example?
 
Should have mentioned, the first oil change I was draining whatever the Subaru dealer put in plus Auto-rx. The second drain I was draining Castrol GTX 5w30 rinse oil. I put Esso XD-3 0w30 in last night.
 
Your symptoms occur with many engines after oil changes. Just curious thou....

What oil filter have you used since the purchase?

Have you exhibited this with the Subie original manufacturer filter?

What oil viscosity are you using? Is that what your manual calls for?
 
Good questions. The recommended weight is 5w30. I was contemplating using 5w20 (opinions on this?) over the winter, but I had 8 litres of 0w30 XD-3 I wanted to use up. The car, by the way, uses 6 litres.

The car had a Subaru (who makes these?) filter on it, which (I hate to admit) I replaced with a FRAM for the rinse. I was thinking the rinse was for such a short period I could get away with the FRAM, and I got one free with some oil I bought.

For the second change, I used a Napa Gold, which as I understand, is a Wix. Had the startup noise with both. Maybe next oil change I should try the Subaru filter.
 
I would try a dealer Subaru-brand oil filter - to see if it alleviates that dry startup.

Your Subie may also prefer thin oils at startup. Every vehicle has it's own set of desires/warning signs on what it wants for oil. The XD-3 OW-30 is thick for a 30W. I would use 5W-30 for the winter there. - maybe even try one winter OCI of 5W-20. Use the Esso stuff from April to November.

But that one-time startup clang is nothing serious. Alot of vehicles do the same dry-startup after oil changes. Just as long as its not occurring all the time at cold startup. If it does, then I would fiddle sith some 5W-20 during the colder months.
 
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Hi neighbor!
The way you do it, you drain almost all used oil from the engine, chain tensioner and oil pump included. That's where the racket comes from. The oil pump has to be primed again before it begins to pump, and that takes some time.
To me, 5 or even 10 seconds of the sound after a start-up is a little extreme. Mine does this for less then a second, but I never leave it to drain for more then an hour with SureDrain. The sump takes prescribed 4.5L of oil after that.
 
Sounds normal. Takes the new oil sometime to get to where it needs to be. That noise has happened in every vehicle I have owned..
 
Mine did this the other day. It's asupposed to be the timing belt slapping against the cover, as the pressure builds back up in the tensioner. dunno if the 6 uses a belt or a chain.
 
Like 777, I don't think it's serious. As long as it is only after draining all the oil and replacing it. I just wouldn't worry about it. I know the 2.5l Subaru engine can run on 5-20 with good results, I don't know if the H-6 is picky about the viscosity.
 
My guess is that the thin oil you're using along with the solvent is what's causing the noise. Subaru says you can use 10W-40 above -4F. (source Amsoil) That's what I'd use for oil along with a WIX 51334.
 
You know, it's probably more like 2-3 seconds, but it sounds so horrible, I've bent reality and made it seem like 10 seconds.

Now that you mention it, I remove the oil filter while the car is jacked up from the driver's side. The oil filter is horizontal, closed end facing the passenger side and it's to the passenger side of the oil pan as well. After I spun off the filter, a fairly substantial amount of oil came out from the filter mount (and hence, somewhere in the engine). Actually the filter mounts to an oil to coolant cooler, so maybe this is oil coming from the cooler, and upon first start, not only do I have to fill the filter, I have to fill the cooler as well....?

Maybe next time I'll change the oil using ramps.


Quote:

Hi neighbor!
The way you do it, you drain almost all used oil from the engine, chain tensioner and oil pump included. That's where the racket comes from. The oil pump has to be primed again before it begins to pump, and that takes some time.
To me, 5 or even 10 seconds of the sound after a start-up is a little extreme. Mine does this for less then a second, but I never leave it to drain for more then an hour with SureDrain. The sump takes prescribed 4.5L of oil after that.

Click to expand...
 
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The six has a chain. If you've ever seen a picture of this engine cut open, you'd be amazed at the convolutions this chain makes as it does it's circuit.

In fact, I just found one...
If you look at the very bottom left hand side, you can see part of a black cylinder - that's my oil filter location.

h6cutaway.jpg


Quote:

Mine did this the other day. It's asupposed to be the timing belt slapping against the cover, as the pressure builds back up in the tensioner. dunno if the 6 uses a belt or a chain.

Click to expand...
 
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Back in the day we simply pulled the coil wire off the top of the coil & turned the engine over for about 15-20 seconds. This will fill the oil filter and prime the system without the engine starting, and eliminates the dry start.

If you can do something similar by interrupting fuel or ignition without damaging any systems on your car, this should solve your problem.
 
Quote:

Back in the day we simply pulled the coil wire off the top of the coil & turned the engine over for about 15-20 seconds. This will fill the oil filter and prime the system without the engine starting, and eliminates the dry start.

If you can do something similar by interrupting fuel or ignition without damaging any systems on your car, this should solve your problem.

Click to expand...


Hmmm...does the fuel injector system have a fuse?
 
The noise is only immediately after an oil change. It never does it any other time. My owner's manual says 5w30 'preferred' for all conditions.

Quote:

My guess is that the thin oil you're using along with the solvent is what's causing the noise. Subaru says you can use 10W-40 above -4F. (source Amsoil) That's what I'd use for oil along with a WIX 51334.

Click to expand...
 
Quote:

Quote:

Back in the day we simply pulled the coil wire off the top of the coil & turned the engine over for about 15-20 seconds. This will fill the oil filter and prime the system without the engine starting, and eliminates the dry start.

If you can do something similar by interrupting fuel or ignition without damaging any systems on your car, this should solve your problem.

Click to expand...


Hmmm...does the fuel injector system have a fuse?

Click to expand...

Probably- since the fuel pump is electric...
wink.gif
 
Quote:

My guess is that the thin oil you're using along with the solvent is what's causing the noise. Subaru says you can use 10W-40 above -4F. (source Amsoil) That's what I'd use for oil along with a WIX 51334.

Click to expand...


5w30 is the recommended weight and Auto-rx is not a solvent. Is it too much to expect posters to have just a little knowledge on the subjects they give "advice" on?
 
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