Engine flush, with the heads removed

[Junker88]

Yeah not that stuff. I'm doing head gaskets on an 02 sierra 4.8. So in doing so blah blah, I've been pouring used oil in the lifter valleys to try and wash out any contaminants out the oil pan but that was all my good used oil. I need something sacrificial for startup and the first 10, 20, 50 miles or so to get everything else that's left before changing the filter and putting in fresh

I was thinking the oil out of my 4cycle small engines, should be 3 quarts about and I change it seasonally so it's, unfortunately, very clean oil still. Being non detergent is there anything worth adding to make up that last quart or just use whatever because I'm putting too much thought into this?

The engine is in no other way needing to be cleaned so it's just to get some coolant and minor debris out. Pic for reference

 

[emmett442]

My opinion is that you are overthinking it. Are you doing this job during a tornado? Did you build your deck by using this open engine as a work bench?

As long as you are reasonably clean while you change the gaskets, just fill it up and run a normal OCI. It'll be fine.

If you've been reckless during the job and really feel you need to go the extra mile, just go to walmart, get the cheapest oil you can find and use it as your "flush"

 

[Kira]

I'm putting too much thought into this?

Yeah, you're fretting.
You're rinsing off bits and pieces, yes? If you leave the drain plug open, douche it down with whatever you want.
Once you get the sand and sawdust out of sight and rinse it out of the oil pan, just load it up and go, as mentioned above.

If you're really concerned, remove the oil pan for a more thorough inspection.

I'm a thrifty kind of fellow but old OPE oil isn't what I'd want to use as a rinsing agent.

 

[Junker88]

My opinion is that you are overthinking it. As long as you are reasonably clean while you change the gaskets, just fill it up and run a normal OCI. It'll be fine.

If you've been reckless during the job and really feel you need to go the extra mile, just go to walmart, get the cheapest oil you can find and use it as your "flush"

People keep telling me this... I considered pouring a bit of gas through it too but I figured that would be unreasonably clean lol

 

[Junker88]

Yeah, you're fretting.
You're rinsing off bits and pieces, yes? If you leave the drain plug open, douche it down with whatever you want.
Once you get the sand and sawdust out of sight and rinse it out of the oil pan, just load it up and go, as mentioned above.

If you're really concerned, remove the oil pan for a more thorough inspection.

I'm a thrifty kind of fellow but old OPE oil isn't what I'd want to use as a rinsing agent.

I had my concerns with the ope so I'm going to assume they were right.

I've been doing just that to rinse it but since this truck doesn't get driven much I didn't want crap sitting in there for a year.

I guess just changing the filter after a good couple hundred miles would be more than sufficient if I wanted to be sure

 

[Oro_O]

People keep telling me this... I considered pouring a bit of gas through it too but I figured that would be unreasonably clean lol

Warm diesel is a great solvent for flushing.

Mercedes used to even recommend adding it to the crankcase and idling to clean things up.

 

[SHOZ]

I filled my manual transmission with some naphtha mineral spirts once to wash out the horrendous Lightweight Shockproof oil. Had it level on jack stands and ran it through all the gears for about 10 minutes. Then let it sit open for two day before refilling.

I'd previously done a sacrificial fill and drain but could not get all the shockproof out. It has a distinctive green color and the fill and drain didn't even change the color.

 

[Junker88]

Warm diesel is a great solvent for flushing.

Mercedes used to even recommend adding it to the crankcase and idling to clean things up.

Forgot that one, if there were much for deposits I'd be doing that but for a 1/4 million miles it's spotless. I'm soaking the lifters now and there isn't even much there

 

[Donald]

If the engine is not spotless after reassembly it will fall out in first 100 miles.

 

[Cujet]

On my Lycoming powered Cessna, I pour 100LL, Avgas through the engine after the oil is drained. This does a great job washing out the nasty stuff in the bottom of the oil pan. As aircraft engines do accumulate sludge, lead deposits and metal bits at the bottom of the oil pan.

I then use compressed air down the oil fill tube to blow out any excess fuel.

It's kept my engine's oil pan clean for the last 18 years.

Before someone here gets wrapped around the axle about using fuel to wash out the pan, this engine does use 100LL fuel to "dilute" the oil for cold weather starts in Alaska.


I guess this is my way of saying, (before installing the oil drain plug) simply use gasoline to flush debris out. It's cheap, and won't cause damage.

 

[Junker88]

On my Lycoming powered Cessna, I pour 100LL, Avgas through the engine after the oil is drained. This does a great job washing out the nasty stuff in the bottom of the oil pan. As aircraft engines do accumulate sludge, lead deposits and metal bits at the bottom of the oil pan.

I then use compressed air down the oil fill tube to blow out any excess fuel.

It's kept my engine's oil pan clean for the last 18 years.

Before someone here gets wrapped around the axle about using fuel to wash out the pan, this engine does use 100LL fuel to "dilute" the oil for cold weather starts in Alaska.


I guess this is my way of saying, (before installing the oil drain plug) simply use gasoline to flush debris out. It's cheap, and won't cause damage.

I'd go one further on that as I love using expired 2 stroke gas as a cleaner because once it's dry it leaves a thin coating of protective oil on everything

 

[clinebarger]

You used a Abrasive Pad on a die grinder to clean the deck surface?

 

[Junker88]

You used a Abrasive Pad on a die grinder to clean the deck surface?

Nah, rubberized bristle doohicky. Drill, low speed. Look at this head, can still see the machining lines. (Yes it's flat)

 

[Junker88]

Nah, rubberized bristle doohicky. Drill, low speed. Look at this head, can still see the machining lines. (Yes it's flat)

This guy

 

[thastinger]

Nah, rubberized bristle doohicky. Drill, low speed. Look at this head, can still see the machining lines. (Yes it's flat)

That head is in no way ready for a MLS gasket, you need to get the RA below 50...and that is about 500.

 

[Junker88]

That head is in no way ready for a MLS gasket, you need to get the RA below 50...and that is about 500.

I really appreciate you mentioning that as I was ready to go for it. If I understand correctly you can get an RA under 50 on aluminum with 220 grit (saw some chart)

Would that be appropriate to use on a sanding block? Sand until the machining lines are gone?

Random orbit sander with 2000 grit wet/dry paper?

What would you use, I probably have it

Thank you

 

[clinebarger]

Nah, rubberized bristle doohicky. Drill, low speed. Look at this head, can still see the machining lines. (Yes it's flat)

Just about every engine manufacturer warns against using ANY kind of abrasive pad anywhere near an open engine. I clean all my surfaces with razorblades unless surfacing/decking.

Even the 3M Roloc Bristle type pads use Aluminum Oxide & Ceramic as an abrasive.

 

[clinebarger]

I really appreciate you mentioning that as I was ready to go for it. If I understand correctly you can get an RA under 50 on aluminum with 220 grit (saw some chart)

Would that be appropriate to use on a sanding block? Sand until the machining lines are gone?

Random orbit sander with 2000 grit wet/dry paper?

What would you use, I probably have it

Thank you

I'd like to know what happened.....LS engines aren't known to blow head gasket even after a overheat event.

Do not attempt to surface the heads yourself, Fel-Pro has composition head gaskets if you're worried about surface finish.

 

[Junker88]

Just about every engine manufacturer warns against using ANY kind of abrasive pad anywhere near an open engine. I clean all my surfaces with razorblades unless surfacing/decking.

Even the 3M Roloc Bristle type pads use Aluminum Oxide & Ceramic as an abrasive.

Scraping? I'm familiar with the process but never tried it before. I've seen so many different ways and people saying everyone else's way is wrong, it's aggravating to say the least.

I can understand the warning against abrasives, fortunately I haven't done any damage and I have lots of time and patience to get it ready for installation

 

[clinebarger]

Couple examples of me cleaning a LS/LT cylinder head surface with razorblades & brake clean.....