Drove around for 2+ hours freeway, ITUs

[TechnoLoGs]

Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

The codes dont SET.


Sure they do. When the code sets the light turns on. When the code resets the light turns off. The trick is to safely get off the road and read the code before the light turns off. If the light turns off too fast you need a helper.


It happens when I am going 70MPH or so.. or at least 55MPH?

Anyways, I just put the battery on charge.

My spidey senses tell me exhaust flow a la catalytic converter. But I blew out a lot of restriction (???) and it appears to happen LESS, but still happens (??)

 

[PF52]

Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

The codes dont SET.


Sure they do. When the code sets the light turns on. When the code resets the light turns off. The trick is to safely get off the road and read the code before the light turns off. If the light turns off too fast you need a helper.


Scan tool might even show the codes after the light has gone off.

I was puzzled for a few moments when I was getting codes related to TPS and EGR on my one OBD1 car when I had the scanner hooked up for some other unrelated tasks. Then I remembered - I got those codes last year, and fixed them. I never "cleared" them. Surprising they were still in there.

 

[Bladecutter]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: volk06
Technologs needs a hobby...


Job (or more hours).


Fully functional brain.
Unfortunately that just isn't going to happen, according to his own posts about his traumatic injury that would have killed a luckier person.

Let's see what all we're dealing with:

Major exhaust leak.
Mystery knocking sound that can't be located.
Bad ignition wires.
Old cap and rotor.
Loose alternator wires.
Mostly discharged battery.
CEL going off while driving.
And to top it all off, Technologs as the owner/operator/mechanic.

Anyone else on the forum would chose one problem, fix it, and move on to the next problem, fix it, move on to the next problem, fix it. The bulk of us would have read the CEL light codes by simply jumpering the OBD port, and reading the codes, to determine what the next problem is that needs fixing.

On top of all of that, none of us would be running that truck around anywhere at full throttle, especially after supposedly just getting a new job, that we desperately need in order to earn money, and survive off of.

But, again, this is Technologs.
What is a simple thought process for us is like a kindergartener trying to read, comprehend, and properly fill out a 1040 Tax return form.

Since he needs help understanding the simple thought, I will try to spell it out for him:

If your car is barely running, you don't drive around beating the stuffing out of it.

He's in his 30's, he should know better than this.
Unfortunately, he's running around with less than a fully functional brain, so it's not entirely his fault.

You could give him a brand new car, right off the showroom floor, and he would break it within 2 weeks. Not his fault, either, it would just happen.

Best to just let him go, as he's pretty much become a force of (un)nature.

BC.

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Quote:
Scan tool might even show the codes after the light has gone off.


I need a scan tool I can plug in that won't lock all the doors, like my OBDII tool I left in my Volvo (second time) did when I tried to plug it in with an OBD1 adapter.

It stays off 90% of the time; but I agree it should be off 100% of the time.

Is there any dedicated tool that will read what is there? Can anyone recommend an affordable model that will read my OBD1 as an OBDII scan tool would, even maybe live data that I can look at later?

Checking with clip at 70MPH = I drift into guard rail, see how structurally sound S10s are.......
Checking with tool = My style.

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Quote:
Major exhaust leak.
Mystery knocking sound that can't be located.
Bad ignition wires.
Old cap and rotor.
Loose alternator wires.
Mostly discharged battery.
CEL going off while driving.
And to top it all off, Technologs as the owner/operator/mechanic.


^^^ As to this: I am going to give up on Stan the Drunk Tool Man "Yes I can fix it" that is largely a hack that will accept your money bt do questionable work, unless it is something straightforward like a water pump... He seems uninterested in actually fixing my bolt, as it "was cut off with a torch flush with the flange." So, today, I will take it to another shop, that SHOULD be able to get up in there, and put a bolt through, yes drilling/torching the other bolt as yonyon said here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3129932#Post3129932

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Quote:
One other option might be to head back to the junkyard and ask them to blow the bolt out with a torch. This will only work if it's a through hole, not a blind hole. It should take all of five minutes to do, but unless they guy is very careful the threads will be wiped out so you'll have to use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and nut.

Another option (again, assuming this is a through hole) for a quick repair is to heat the bolt and pop it out with an air hammer. It will leave steel in there clogging up the threads in the manifold, but once everything cools you can use a pick to peel that right out and screw in a new stud. For that sort of thing, go to an exhaust shop. It shouldn't cost much because there's little time required.


^^ What is "blind hole?"

^^^^^ Apparently, this one was "cut with a torch," so where the cut bolt is is flush with the rest of the metal.

 

[RF Overlord]

A blind hole is one that doesn't go all the way through. You can't put a bolt through it and use a nut on the other side.

 

[cmorr]

Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
What is "blind hole?"

^^^^^ Apparently, this one was "cut with a torch," so where the cut bolt is is flush with the rest of the metal.


Ummm,err,ughh, too easy, will take the high road

For a decent mechanic no big deal, cobalt bit, drill it out, tap it and use a stud and nut or a bolt

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Quote:
Scan tool might even show the codes after the light has gone off.


I need a scan tool I can plug in that won't lock all the doors, like my OBDII tool I left in my Volvo (second time) did when I tried to plug it in with an OBD1 adapter.

It stays off 90% of the time; but I agree it should be off 100% of the time.

Is there any dedicated tool that will read what is there? Can anyone recommend an affordable model that will read my OBD1 as an OBDII scan tool would, even maybe live data that I can look at later?

Checking with clip at 70MPH = I drift into guard rail, see how structurally sound S10s are.......
Checking with tool = My style.


So are you saying that you have or have not tried to read codes with a paperclip/jumper wire when the vehicle is stopped? Recent codes could still be there even though the light is not on when you check. Knowing what's broken will go a long way toward directing your repair efforts.