Only when we're getting into the -20*C territory do I do anything but start and drive (with respect for all of the cold mechanicals).
Even in -20*C it's less than 30 seconds - just long enough for any complaining noises (from the car, not the occupants) to stop and things to stabilize.
Engine warm up is much, much faster when under some kind of load, even a light load. I don't think my car will even warm up idling if you give it 20 minutes or more in the winter. The less time running rich, belching pollution and diluting the oil the better. My UOAs including fuel dilution from the winter are great.
Another thing I do on my vehicle is limit the demands on the HVAC. It's a fully automatic (BMW) system and I'll override the fan so that it doesn't go any faster than the initial speed at cold start. If I don't, as soon as the coolant reaches something like only 30-40C it'll start belting out heat trying to warm the cabin and robbing it from the engine and oil. If I'm short tripping I'm dressed in winter gear already so this is my default fan setting. If I'm on a longer drive I'll leave it on full automatic. This is a little finicky but it really does make a difference and with auto temp but manual fan it still keeps the windows clear.
My previous year-round car was an Acura Integra with a 1.8L engine. There on cold days I actually set the HVAC to cold air, low fan, all defrost. That engine barely made any heat and this was just enough to keep cold air moving over the windshield. I'd open the water valves half way when getting a decent engine block temp reading.
Even in -20*C it's less than 30 seconds - just long enough for any complaining noises (from the car, not the occupants) to stop and things to stabilize.
Engine warm up is much, much faster when under some kind of load, even a light load. I don't think my car will even warm up idling if you give it 20 minutes or more in the winter. The less time running rich, belching pollution and diluting the oil the better. My UOAs including fuel dilution from the winter are great.
Another thing I do on my vehicle is limit the demands on the HVAC. It's a fully automatic (BMW) system and I'll override the fan so that it doesn't go any faster than the initial speed at cold start. If I don't, as soon as the coolant reaches something like only 30-40C it'll start belting out heat trying to warm the cabin and robbing it from the engine and oil. If I'm short tripping I'm dressed in winter gear already so this is my default fan setting. If I'm on a longer drive I'll leave it on full automatic. This is a little finicky but it really does make a difference and with auto temp but manual fan it still keeps the windows clear.
My previous year-round car was an Acura Integra with a 1.8L engine. There on cold days I actually set the HVAC to cold air, low fan, all defrost. That engine barely made any heat and this was just enough to keep cold air moving over the windshield. I'd open the water valves half way when getting a decent engine block temp reading.
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