Ditch the PF-48 for a M1 filter during Break-in?

[blmlozz]

So I know the M1's are rated for 98-99% efficiency @ 20 microns. I have one of these on the shelf and I'm considering immediately taking the PF-48 off and throwing this on there for the 1500-3000 miles on the break-in OCI. What I don't know is;
1) The efficiently of the PF-48
2) At what point is any debris is considered 'safe' for an engine. I think it's ~ 10microns, but I can't remember..
3) Should I even bother?

Engine is a GM LSA.


Thanks in advance.

 

[Topo]

Brand : ACDelco ,Model : PF48
98 percent single-pass filtering efficiency at 25-30 microns for excellent filtering capabilities
Patented cellulose media traps particles 1/3 the width of a human hair to help provide a clean supply of oil to engine components
Thermosetting adhesive seals hold filtering media in place for consistent, dependable filtration
Designed with five times greater burst strength than most engine oil operating pressures after the oil reaches operating temperatures
ACDelco is an Original Equipment (OE) supplier and has the experience engineering and manufacturing components that achieve the highest quality standards required by vehicle manufacturer.

Answer to your what microns is safest Go To this Link, Not saying it defiantly true, but it is a good theory:
http://www.hepofilters.com/gm-study.html

Your 3rd Question Posed, " Should You Bother"= Depends on what you determine is better is for you price point: M1 EP Filter is a 15,000 mile filter, ACDelco is not. If your looking at which is better, it really depends on your application, how many miles you go and what your willing to pay. I would say that the Mobil EP Filter is better. Synthetic Blended Media, Better Efficiency Rating, Traps smaller micron particles well up to 10 Microns( as stated by a Mobil 1 Rep I talked to), very well built. But I say you could use a Pure-One Filter and it's more efficient than both, easily seen it go to 10,000 miles on a clean engine, and its less than $6.00.

 

[Topo]

Mobil 1 EP Oil Filter Is 99.2% Efficient at 20 Microns. Just forgot to add that.

 

[blmlozz]

Originally Posted By: Topo
Mobil 1 EP Oil Filter Is 99.2% Efficient at 20 Microns. Just forgot to add that.


Thanks, I Think I will throw it on there after reading the article.

 

[antiqueshell]

Nope, why waste a perfectly good filter by replacing it so early?

 

[Topo]

My view of the 3 most important things for your engine:

1. Choice of Oil, that meets your defined needs and your equipment. Many theories here, many great choices of oils for many different circumstances.

2. Air Filter- Air filter is huge, letting in abrasive dirt increase wear metals.

3. Oil Filter- Oil filter to me is determined by many things. Do you extend OCI, types of conditions, such as stop and go vs. highway. Restrictive vs. Less Restrictive Flow. Durability and make up of the filter: Silicon bypass or Nitrile Rubber, Leaf Spring or Coiled Spring, Filter Surface Area( Pleat Count and Depth) Filter Media( Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic Blended, Paper Cellouse) End Caps( Paper or Metal) and Price Points to name a few. Everyone has the reasons for their choices. I would say keep what you have on, if you feel the need to change to something, defined with more holding capacity and better filtration you picked a fine filter in Mobil 1 EP.

P.S.- I would leave the ACDelco on, it's a waste of a decent filter and good oil that is coming out when you pull it. You next OCI I would just go with Mobil 1 EP if that is what you would like to use. ACDelco is a fine filter, used by millions of people, it is very doubtful any catostrophic engine failure happen with them.

 

[blmlozz]

Quote:
2. Air Filter- Air filter is huge, letting in abrasive dirt increase wear metals.

that's where my concern is comming from. I'll be throwing a RAI on the car immediatly. It's an airaid synthamax dry filter, similar to the AEM dry cone filters, but it's no flat paper filter, so the thinking is to use a better than average filter to offset anything that might get through.

 

[AMC]

I would just do an early oil change anywhere from 1,000 to 3,000 miles as a break in oil change and upgrade to better oil and oil filter when you do so. New GM engines do seem to throw alot of wear metals in UOAs when they are breaking in so I do still believe in the "break in" oil changes, for GM at least. I did a break in oil change in my truck when it was new and I also compared a bunch of the PF-48 filters to help me determine which filters I was going to use. Check it out.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2094641&page=1

 

[Topo]

Originally Posted By: blmlozz
Quote:
2. Air Filter- Air filter is huge, letting in abrasive dirt increase wear metals.

that's where my concern is comming from. I'll be throwing a RAI on the car immediatly. It's an airaid synthamax dry filter, similar to the AEM dry cone filters, but it's no flat paper filter, so the thinking is to use a better than average filter to offset anything that might get through.


I really don't have a lot of knowledge on that air filter. My belief is you can't beat an OEM Drop in filter or Pure One Air Filter or Wix. But I read a little, sounds like a good filter. More surface area to catch particles, but does it let more in and than once in loads with dirt, does it's true efficiency show up.

 

[blmlozz]

Originally Posted By: Topo
Originally Posted By: blmlozz
Quote:
2. Air Filter- Air filter is huge, letting in abrasive dirt increase wear metals.

that's where my concern is comming from. I'll be throwing a RAI on the car immediatly. It's an airaid synthamax dry filter, similar to the AEM dry cone filters, but it's no flat paper filter, so the thinking is to use a better than average filter to offset anything that might get through.


I really don't have a lot of knowledge on that air filter. My belief is you can't beat an OEM Drop in filter or Pure One Air Filter or Wix. But I read a little, sounds like a good filter. More surface area to catch particles, but does it let more in and than once in loads with dirt, does it's true efficiency show up.


Do you think that's just a drawback of the cone filter design or just the media? I was thinking if the UOA's are not to my liking that I'd try to look for an alternative cone filter with better media, like maybe the conical Amsoil EA filters. Haven't searched yet to see if they're acutally better yet, just had it on my mind.

Quote:
I would just do an early oil change anywhere from 1,000 to 3,000 miles as a break in oil change and upgrade to better oil and oil filter when you do so. New GM engines do seem to throw alot of wear metals in UOAs when they are breaking in so I do still believe in the "break in" oil changes, for GM at least. I did a break in oil change in my truck when it was new and I also compared a bunch of the PF-48 filters to help me determine which filters I was going to use. Check it out.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2094641&page=1

thanks for the link!

 

[Topo]

I will get back to this post when I have more research. Wouldn't want to provide you with less than truthful facts. I can only speak of the K&N drop in oiled filter I had. Not real impressed with my increased silicon levels in my oil. Than looking at the filter through light, I was even less impressed, seeing holes through the cotton gauze and in between pleats, can't be a good thing. I suppose once it started loading up on the filter, the filtration was better. I will get back to you on your question later..Chris

 

[blmlozz]

just to followup-- the EA induction filters are made from the same material as the panel filters, that's to say, they have excellent filtration capacity-- likely more than the synthamax does. So I'll be picking one up! Best of all, the car will be blue too so it'll work *and* look great!