Difficulty getting car level for oil change?

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I live in an area that is hilly. My garage (built 1930s) is uneven. Regardless of how I park, the vehicles are not completely level. Additional places (which are limited) where I could do an oil change also have this issue.

Is it a problem if the vehicle is not entirely level?

Thanks
 
In my car at least, it's an advantage. I can get out more oil with the nose of the car up a little (the drain plug is at the rear of the oil pan). I just put in the full capacity of oil, so setting the level is no problem.

I do check the oil level at places besides my house, because I have the exact same issue.
 
You have to lift the front of the vehicle anyway to get under it, unless you are 3 feet tall and 60 lbs. Find a spot that is reasonably level, put the car on ramps or jack it up with a floor jack, place your jack stands for safety and have at it. You will never drain all the oil out of the crankcase anyway.
 
I dong think so. The best test would be to drop the oil pan after to see.

Some cars don't have the plug at the correct direction to fully drain when on ramps. I've never had an issue.

If its that big of a concern, I'd just reinstall the plug, pour 1/4 qt of fresh oil in, let it drain, then refill normally. Use a cheaper oil as your flush agent if need be. There should be next to none left in the end all.
 
Thanks. I am able to reach under (the truck and SUV). I'm 6ft, 190.

With jacks/stands it does seem to would be possible to level it out though...support one side slighty lower/higher?
 
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I'm sure your garage is level enough.
BTW: You should have some idea how much oil goes into the crankcase.
 
I haven't measured the different floor heights exactly, but I imagine with the large truck it might be close to 2-3 inches front to rear, and an inch to an inch and a half side to side.
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I dong think so. The best test would be to drop the oil pan after to see.



Nothing short of a day long job on most newer vehicles...
 
Assuming the oil level was good before doing an oil change, measure the amount of old oil that comes out and put the same amount of new oil back in - and the level will be good again. Here is an easy way to do it:

1) Drain the old oil into a basin, ideally a basin with a spout.

2) On the new oil bottles note where the level is, identifying it with a line drawn with a Sharpie marker.

3) Add the first quart (or liter) of new oil into the engine.

4) Using a funnel carefully fill the empty bottle of new oil with the used oil. Then pour the bottle of used oil into a jug or whatever you use to bring old oil somewhere for recycling.

5) Fill up the empty bottle again with used oil from the basin. It will show how much new oil from the next bottle is needed for the engine, and add that much new oil to the engine.

Of course all but the last empty bottle will get filled with used oil. But the last empty bottle will get partially filled - and this is the amount of new oil from the last new bottle that will need to get added to the engine, bringing it very close to the oil level that was there before starting the oil change.

Don't spill any of the used oil when pouring it from the basin into the empty bottle of new oil because it will mess up the measurements!

For whatever it is worth, I use this method when changing transmission fluid because for me it is harder to get the level of new transmission fluid right than it is to get the level of new engine oil, coolant/antifreeze, brake fluid, power steering fluid, etc., right.
 
I've got the same issue here, garage not level. Here's what I do.

1. I top off or check the oil level when I'm out (somewhere level), but when I get home I recheck parked as usual in the garage and note any discrepancy on the dipstick, eg 1/4" over or 1/4" under etc, depending on the direction of the slope. This just give s me a reference point for checking the oil. In my case it actually shows about 1/8" under due to the slope.

2. When draining the oil I park so that the drain plug side of the engine is on he downward side (my garage slopes sideways but is level enough lengthways)

3. Ramps and jacks are always a bit more risky on a non-level surface but fortunately I don't need much extra clearance for an oil change. I just drive the front down slope side wheel up onto a piece of 8" by 4" lumber and that's enough for me. This levels out the car a bit, but it still has some sideways slope. No problems though as this actually help drain the oil better.

4. While it's not totally level it's easily good enough to get a fair indication on the dipstick. When I refill after the change I hold back just a little and then go drive somewhere level to recheck and top off.
 
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