CPO Honda w/ transmission pulsation - dealer can’t diagnose - sell or keep pushing for repair?

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Aug 12, 2015
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NY
A little over a year ago I purchased a CPO 2017 Honda Accord Hybrid with 71k miles. It came with a 2 year/100k Honda-backed powertrain warranty. It has the newer 2 motor hybrid drive not the older IMA/eCVT set up.

The car ran flawlessly up til about 79k miles. I run the same commute every day. One random morning it starts to consistently pulsate every 2 seconds when I’m cruising along a 50 mph road. I figured maybe it had to do with the engine/trans temp or the road gradient, but it does it on all types of roads now(some 6k miles and 5 months later). It has done it these past two days in a row. But it was working perfectly fine all of last week.

According to what I’ve observed on the dash essentially the powertrain is having issues jumping back into EV mode/shutting off the engine at cruising speed.

From what I’ve gathered online - not officially from Honda - it has to do with Honda’s programming of the hybrid drive system.

I took it into service once and was told it had to do with my tires. I was running a set of Acura wheels at the time that were about 0.6” OD smaller than what came with the factory. I swapped back the factory wheels and it did nothing.

Do I take it back again and have them look at it? There are no codes or any sort of diagnostic data that can indicate any problems. Id hate to take it to the dealer just for them to tell me it’s normal.
 
From what I’ve gathered online - not officially from Honda - it has to do with Honda’s programming of the hybrid drive system.
I think you might be on to something here. When you say pulsate, does it almost feel like a surge? If so, it sounds like it's switching EV mode on and off. I'll bet Honda has a software update for something like that. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I think you might be on to something here. When you say pulsate, does it almost feel like a surge? If so, it sounds like it's switching EV mode on and off. I'll bet Honda has a software update for something like that. Good luck and keep us posted.

Not really a surge, more like a sudden pause in power with every pulsation.

You usually can feel when the vehicle goes into full EV mode as you lose the torque from the engine, it is that but over and over at precise 2 second increments as clearly the computer is attempting to change over. I can even watch the dash power monitor - with every pulsation you see the engine attempting to disengage only to reengage immediately.

If I let off the throttle it’ll immediately jump into EV mode and all is well as long as I cruise for a 10-15 seconds for the battery to deplete slightly then the engine comes on and it’ll run fine under the same speed/conditions until it decides to do it again.

I have been having a hard time trying to figure out the exact conditions that it happens in. All I know is it’s in between 40-60 mph, light throttle, and when the engine is charging the battery and powering the wheels. Can never replicate it. Even on the same stretch of road it doesn’t do it every morning.
 
if its a programming issue why did it just start?

Exactly what I am saying. It can’t be a software glitch because it just started one random morning.

I am thinking maybe it has something to do with with me running smaller OD wheels? I had only had it on the car for some 3 weeks before it started happening and it was off by the 4th week. When I put the original wheels on I thought it had fixed the issue as it ran for about a month trouble free, then it started pulsating occasionally but also running fine for weeks at a time. Then like this week it has been doing it every day that I leave work. The second I hit a 50 mph straight road it starts doing it. Yesterday was infront of the office. Today was near my house.
 
Dump it just before the warranty is up.

I have til about 8 months/14k miles left on it. I figure if they can’t do anything by April I’ll just trade it in. Was offered $14400 recently and I paid $22990 a little over a year ago. Have put about 15k miles on it so kinda a heavy hit if I don’t consider the warranty value

the only thing the warranty has came in handy for was a new navigation unit as the original one had bricked. It was a $1500 repair

I paid a little more than I should’ve since the car was in nice shape and I planned on keeping it for a long time. I was not expecting the transmission to act up this quickly
 
Exactly what I am saying. It can’t be a software glitch because it just started one random morning.
I would say this is untrue. Realize your talking about a electronic control of an analog device - an engine and motor. Possibly the tuning worked fine when everything is new, but once you get some wear in the system the transition times or whatever are no longer working.

Not saying this is your problem, just saying your working with system control, not a video game that is purely digital. Realize many times when firmware updates on cars are made its not because the original code had a bug, but to accommodate a mechanical difference that was not anticipated.

Of course this could have nothing to do with your problem.

Either way, its the dealers issue under warranty, not yours.
 
How long ago did you swap the wheels and tires back to OE? Did you disconnect the negative battery terminal and allow the ECM to relearn the change back to OE tires? I'd be giving that a shot.
 
This 2 motor drive system has a clutch based transmission. Does this happen when in park? If not, the clutch(es) are probably slipping. If that isn't the issue, most likely it needs the fluid replaced, as its not engaging the clutches properly.
This is why I dislike honda's hybrid system's. Unnecessarily complicated compared to toyota's gen 3/4/5 system's.

Either way, push for repairs, if its under warranty, contact corporate. Record all conversations using your phone, make sure you have everything on record. Give those scummy honda dealers a reality check.

Just as an FYI, at cruising speeds you will be using more engine than electric motor. Honda's system is designed to be used in stop/go traffic and cities where speeds are low. The motor's torque falls off a cliff past 45 MPH.
 
is this the system where the combustion engine never actually directly drives the wheels?
It does. There are two clutches. One to engage the electric motor, one to engage the engine. They cannot work simulatneously. The Electric motor is used to start the car from 0 and past 45 the engine takes over.
 
It does. There are two clutches. One to engage the electric motor, one to engage the engine. They cannot work simulatneously. The Electric motor is used to start the car from 0 and past 45 the engine takes over.

And i assume these are wet clutches?

When we were considering a civic hybrid (err sorry insight) i understood that the engine never drove the wheels directly, perhaps i misunderstood.

To the OPs problem, i would defiantly keep darkening the Honda dealers door, but i would scan it to see if there were codes. I might consider a fluid change in the "transmission" if that's a thing.
 
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