closing a rust hole in a floorboard

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JHZR2

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Im helping a friend with a car that has a hole in the rear floorboard. It is a rust hole, maybe 2 inches by 6 inches or so (just my memory, not sure that this is exact).

As I see it, there are a few options:
1) rustproof/encapsulate the rust, then make some fiberglass structure overtop to enclose the area. Likely not preferred for a number of reasons, including unlike materials.

2) make a piece of sheetmetal to a size overlapping he rust area, encapsulate the rust and sand down adjacent metal bare. Use some sort of epoxy, JB weld, etc. to bond the two parts. Then prime and paint all surfaces. Likely not preferred because of a bonding agent used, but likely better than fiberglass, and potentially actually easier.

3) Do very much the same as in #2, where we encapsulate the rust, then sand to bare metal. Make overlapping clear metal, and then use some sort of a welder to combine the two pieces of metal. Id imagine that this would be most preferable, as it makes a true one-piece sructure.

With either of the metal options, Id probably drill a hole in the center and then spray paint/rustproofing compound, etc. against the inner surface, to make sure that there is no bare metal.

So, which is the best method? If #3, what is the best means of welding the two parts together? I am good at soldering electronics, and I'd imagine that there is an equivalent "stick weld" or something like this.

Keep in mind that if I was doing it, this would be my first try, so it needs to be easy to learn. I don't mind learning, as since Im helping, any parts are paid for, and any tools, things required to do the job are both paid for and mine... Pretty nice deal. I just want to be sure that Im doing the right thing, or if not doable by me, that we are getting somebody else to do the right thing.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
 
Just fixed a hole in a floorboard earlier this week.

Here's what I did.
Cut 2 pieces of galvanized sheet metal "furnace pipe" 2 to 3 inches larger than the hole. Coated metal around hole with roof cement and applied one piece of metal on outside. Did the same on the inside. Pop rivited them together around the hole. Applied more roof cement to cover both outside and inside of new sheetmetal. Then covered the inside with a larger piece of plastic. Used plastic from kitty liter pail.

I realize this will rust out in time but will probably take upward of 5 years to do it. By then the car will be toast.

Hope this helps.
 
My brother had a friend who had some old traffic signs laying around. I didn't ask how he got them...

Anyway, those are nice, decent gauge galvanized metal. My brother used a bunch to redo the floor in a car he was restoring.

Now I'm not condoning running down to the corner and bagging the stop sign.
 
The only real way to make a structural repair is by renting or borrowing a MIG Welder. MIG Welding is relatively easy, check out some videos on youtube, do a couple of hours practice, and you should be able to do a passable job.
Anything else is a bodge!
 
You are right, but not everyone has access to a welder let alone a mig welder and the pop rivit method does work for an older car you just want to last longer. Ask me how I know as I did it the first time back in the 1950's.
 
MIG welding a flush patch in is certainly the better-than-most method, but if this is just a driver then it may not be worth the effort. If you feel it is, go to the local community college or vo-tech school and sign up for the welding/fab. class (or the autobody class, but you'll find a lot better welders and machines in the fab class) and use their machine and knowlege.

If this is just a driver that you'd like to keep the rain out of, stick a piece of tin to the floor with some roofing tar, maybe a couple of pop rivets to keep in place. Throw the carpet back down and you're good for another ten years.

If you want to get into what is probably the least expensive decent quality MIG welding available today, Readywelder offers a spoolgun that has a very good reputation. Run it off a couple of car batteries, MIG power supply, DC stick welder, whatever. Under $700, not bad. It's not a fab. shop machine, but it's a lot cheaper and you can throw it in the toolbox.

lp
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Im helping a friend with a car that has a hole in the rear floorboard. It is a rust hole, maybe 2 inches by 6 inches or so (just my memory, not sure that this is exact).


My Chevy had an even larger hole in the front passenger footwell. My girlfriend was very surprised when the carpet suddenly gave way. Her foot got stuck. I placed a piece of sheet aluminum over the hole from the inside. Then I put a thick rubber floor mat over it. I drove the car like that all winter, then we chucked the Celebrity and moved to California.
grin2.gif
 
Do you want a permanent repair?
It will be tough with rusty metal.
Thick roofing tar and a metal plate will work rather easily, and may outlast the rest of the rusting.
 
1st step would be to knock all the loose stuff around the hole with a hammer to see how far it goes. 2nd would be to cut around that with an angle grinder typically and see that you've cut through solid metal.

I would try to find a patch metal with some sort of stamped in reinforcements, but know that's a long shot. Old computer cases from the 80's/ early 90's are sometimes pretty tough for sound deadening reasons.

You may easily wind up attaching to the transmission tunnel or outer rocker tunnel so plan your curves. You can make a redneck metal brake with two 2x4s clamped together sandwiching the metal, roll this against a smooth floor or what have you to put even bends in.

I like sandwiching silicone/RTV, household grade is ok by me, between new metal and old, making sure it oozes out all the edges.

Back in Model T times floorboards were actually made of wood (reused/recycled from axle crates!), hence the name. IIRC the classic london taxis use removable wood floorboards.
 
Im seeing lots of opinions that do NOT include welding...

Should I be welding if at all possible?

Ive been looking at buying a 115V wire flux welder, getting everything down to bare metal, and welding a piece of metal on.

I want to be sure that I do not electrocute myself, yet keep costs down.

Is welding preferable???
 
Also, if I was to weld, would it be smart to pop rivet and weld, so that the rivets start to provide optimum contact?
 
The most important question is - How long does this solution need to last? Very obviously, if you take this to a body shop and ask for their best solution they won't suggest a riveted patch. But I agree that that may be a perfectly useful solution for, say, a five year planning horizon, if not longer.

BTW, if you plan to overlap the metal, I would braze instead of weld, so there is no chance for rust to develop between the layers. If welding, cut and fit the patch. In my opinion though, for most uses, this would validate the tar sandwich approach.
 
5 years would be right - it is a college get around car.

Brazing would be tough to do, eh? Hotter, brighter, and with specialty gasses. Wire flux welding seems diy.

Thanks.
 
Another thought here is how old a car is it and how many miles are on it any what location is it going to be driven in, snow an ice= salt???
 
the car is 25 years old and will be driven in most all conditions, it may well see salt.
 
I've seen thick torch-down roofing material used to cover rust holes in flooring and trunk pans. It holds up very well provided you've got some structure left.

Joel
 
TWENTY FIVE YEARS OLD! I'd do the easiest, cheapest way out. Unless you're restoring it as an antique.

Does it qualify as a cash for junker?
 
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