bypass/metered oil filter change interval

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I guess this has been gone over, but my search didn't turn up anything...........perhaps because it's after midnight Central Time
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Anyway, at what intervals should I change the full flow filter on my bypass unit?
What about the metered flow bypass?
Another thing, does the Amsoil filter have the built in flow meter like the Purolator, or do I need to replace the Purolator with another Purolator?
Thanks for helping a newbie.
Jason
 
Jason
What kind of unit do you have?. From your post, I guess a BMK-13. Is this correct?
 
Ah ...my old pal, tmvtaylor. Great source ..bruttal on S&H.

I believe the stand along Amsoil bypass filters have a 1-16 nipple that is restricted. The filter is not.


You'll have some reduced bypass filter action until the ff filter gets some mileage on it. Go for the most dense filter you can find for the ff. M1, PureOne ..maybe even the Amsoil new nano-tech filters.

Drill out the nipple (if you want to). It's unnecessary in a dual setup to have any restrictions to the bypass filter. The full flow will be a way easier path.
 
It's a standard Permacool dual remote with one of his custom made threaded inserts for the bypass thread. Amsoil used to use them ..but put their biasing spring thingy in there and used a 1-16 threaded insert for the BE filters.

Except for the S&H, it's actually not all that bad a deal. Naturally, I'm applying my hard earned research into such things.

Did he over wrap everything for your shippment like he did mine? He went nuts with the tape and other stuff.
 
Say, I think this thread has deviated a little bit from my original question :)

Presently I have about 700 miles on this setup. Trying to see when I should change filters.
When should I do UOA?
Thanks
Jason
 
Your first UOA should be around the halfway point of your intended drain interval ..or probably 6 months.

I think the rhetorical response to this is to change the full flow out at 6 months to replenish some of the additives. I'm unsure of the change interval for the BE fitler. I would imagine it depends on how big it is how long it will last.
 
That unit kind of looks familiar, don't it Gary?
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I think he has replaced the BP filter thred from 1x16 to 5/8 X 16, as he also sells these on ebay.

You would have to replace the Amsoil threaded filter mount if you were to use an Amsoil filter with this setup. I wonder if he also took the ball and spring out?? Since this has the 0.050" restrictor in it...

Gary, he isn't using the BE filter if he got the setup in the picture on ebay. He is using the Purolator L30003 (equivalent of the Baldwin B50 / Hastings LF117). And, if he has it set up like in the picture on ebay it is backwards to mine. My dual remote has the first influent filter as a BE90, then the ball/spring, and then the full flow, returning back to the BE90 and then back to the engine. Maybe it works better this way with the filter that has the restictor in it??
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Vern
 
No, tmvtaylor uses regular Permacool mounts. He has a machine shop make up his other threaded adapters for the various filters. He and I actually consulted with each other, informally, when he made the adapter for the 1-16 thread. He did it differently then his 5/8-18 adapter, which just replaces the entire insert/nipple. There (the 1-16 threaded adapter) used the economy of an internally threaded 3/4-16 nipple that has a 1-16 external thread. You just spin it over top.

If you recommend it to him, he might go out and find the parts needed to convert standard Permacool's to mimic Amsoil units.
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I switched and put the bypass filter first then the full flow, then back to the engine.
Is that best?
I'm running Amsoil, so I'm really thinking of simply changing filters and replenishing without changing.
Should I still change every so often with this method of filtration and replenishment?
I also plan to run a maintenance dose of ARX, replenishing it about every 25k miles.
Thanks for the help in learning.
Jason
 
By the way, I'm no normal driver. Time amounts to very little in speaking about this. My driving is approx 45k per year. This year will probably top 50k miles.
Please keep this in mind when advising me.
That's why I'm trying this bypass. I want my 2005 F150 to last me through many 100s of thousands of miles :)
Jason
 
This http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=8052679253&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT
There is no spring, etc. to meter, but a reducing/orifice style filter nipple and a metered filter for the bypass.
I wish I had a pic of it on my truck. I replaced the kit hoses with hydraulic hose so that I could feel comfortable running it. The fiber reinforced line doesn't satisfy me the way a custom made hydraulic line does.
Jason
 
I'm naturally going to recommend a series of UOA to determine what is best for your engine. With your kind of driving you should be able to stretch it out quite far.

I think I'll try this first before I recommend it, but if there was room for a sandwich where your full flow filter used to be, I'd rig up the remote dual for two bypass filters and let the relief valve carry the majority of the flow until it warmed up. Those filters will pass some oil when cold and probably all of it when warm.

Again, I'll try this out before asking someone else to experiment with their engine. I'm too curious not to try it.

As long as your bypass filter gets warm when you're running, I think you will be fine. Something will always flow through it.

I'd say that you're looking at 6month OCIs. You may not have to swap out filters between OCI's either.

I'd do a 3month UOA (get a sample pump from Blackstone or rig a tap on one of the plugged ends of the Permacool) and go from there. That should tell you if you've got enough to make it another 3 months (in your type of service). You can then do another at the 6 month mark (without changing it) and based on that result decide whether to change it out or not.

Consider doing particle counts (PC) with your UOA for the first couple of samples.
 
Is the Particle Count a standard with UOA, or do I have to request it?
Second, who do you use for your analyses?
Thanks for the info. I enjoy learning....especially since I want to get the best out of this truck that I can.
 
I've used Blackstone Labs. The PC is an additional $20, IIRC. It's not mandatory, but it sure helps define your level of filtration efficiency. You may also consider doing a Dyson premium kit (look in the SPONSOR section at the top of the forum) for your second UOA ..or both for that matter. If you're truly going for the long haul it would probably pay to have professional advice above the standard level of service. Assuming that you do everything by the numbers in terms of maintenance, there's no reason not to get the same service most people do out of a vehicle ..like 8-10 years ..or more. Assuming no manufacturer defects, you're more likely to have fender benders cause you to get rid of it than wear. You're in the sweet spot of low wear more miles a year then most engines see in a decade.

If you're so inclined, go and contact Terry and see what he would recommend to make his job more effective. He might say just wait until 6 months
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He's not going to turn away business ..but he's not going to cost you any more then he has to either.
 
I'm not sure what you want to do here, jntskip
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Are you looking for a sandwich ..or what?

If you're engine already has a 22mm thread ..then a sandwich for your engine should too. If you're going remote ..then there's no need for 22mm filter ..you can use a 3/4-16 in the EAO line
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Gary,
Been away a while.
Was wanting to adapt my remote to run the FL820S for full flow.
Instead, I removed it per Terry Dyson's recommendations. Bad analysis for wear metals ....poor filtration.
I am now running the Amsoil EAO11
 
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