Was doing a normal brake inspection on my 2017 Corolla iM. See this on the right front. I occasionally heard a weird snapping sound when driving but didn't think anything of it. Wonder if I can get just the shims alone? The pads and rotors look fairly new.
Brake pad shim blown out
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It may be possible. If it were me, I wouldn't bother though. A set of brake pads is pretty inexpensive and you're already doing most of the work to access it. May as well just slap a new set on or just remove the shims as they aren't required.
$70 for a set of oem Toyota pads. Picked up the shims for $17. Just have to figure out which ones to use. I assume they aren't stacked together?
The 4 on the left have stainless steel on the outside, a coating on the inside facing the pad and are identical. The 4 on the right have the coating on the opposite side and 2 of them have the tabs in different locations.
stacked, it only fits properly one way so give it a go
Black ones first then stainless on the outside.
Also, compare the position of the tab ears to the old ones you take off.
Not sure how that would work as 4 of the shims have the black on one side and the other 4 have it on the other side.
So I can have the black coating against the back of the pad with the first shim, and stainless on the other side so that the stainless of the second shim are together and then the black coating of that 2nd shim is against the caliper piston or ears.
Or I can have the stainless against the back of the pad with the first shim, and the black coating on the other side so that the black coating of the second shim are together and then the stainless of that 2nd shim is against the caliper piston or ears.
Intuition suggests the first scenario where there is the stainless between the two shims so they are free to move easier, but who knows.
These are aftermarket pads so the Toyota shims aren't exactly the same and have only one on each pad.
The second scenario highlighted in red above is the correct orientation. The stainless side must always contact the piston(s) and floating caliper frame. The 3 small clip tabs on the pads force you to attach them in one direction...you must use two different shims on each pad and the outward facing shims must show stainless steel.
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^^^ Your photo shows correct placement of the inner shim on the brake pad.
No, top of the pads.
GSCJR is correct...just go back to the photo posted in the OP's Post #1. It clearly shows the tension clip attached to the top ear on the pad.
I have two shims on the pad. Inner shim has stainless toward the back of the pad and outer shim has stainless facing up. Black coating between the two shims.
Got it. On the leading edge as the rotor turns.
What are your plans for placing lubricant on the shims?
That one gets good reviews AFAIK. I believe you place some lube between the pad and the first shim, but not sure about between the two shims.I have this, or is there something better?
That Permatex silicone based lube is fine; however, you should remove, clean and lubricate the slide pins while the pads are out. I normally apply lube to the piston ring surface and the floating caliper frame only where it contacts the stainless steel shims. I don't apply any lube between the inner shim and the brake pad's backing plate. Don't apply lube between the shims since the black surface is a self lubricating graphite coating.
I saw one source talk about an “anti-squeal” liquid being applied between the shim and the brake pad’s backing plate but this was specific to a system with a single backing plate.
Did that. The pins had grease but it was more like glue it was so sticky. Removed all of it and used the Permatex. All back together now.
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