Having just replaced all the lines for the back brakes on the 95 metro made me curious, how long do people get out of their brake lines before they need replacing? Ones I had were so corroded that to slightly bend them broke them in 2 pieces. Pieces that went to the rubber hose weren't as rusty but figured while I was having fun doing it, might as well replace everything from the proportioning valve back. Tomorrow it will get a fresh fill of Valvoline synthetic brake fluid which will be changed in 2-3 yrs.
brake line replacement ?
- Thread starter SteveU
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21 years, still intact. Altough rubber hoses looks intact from the outside I'm in the process of replacing rubber portions just to be sure.
I can't say the same for the fuel lines though. They are corroded, within a couple of years I'll need to replace.
I can't say the same for the fuel lines though. They are corroded, within a couple of years I'll need to replace.
Kestas
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My winter drivers get rustproofed. I do it myself and I make sure the lines are covered. This is why time and again on this board, I urge people to rustproof their cars if they drive in the rust belt. The time and money spent on rustproofing cars pays big dividends when dealing with rust issues down the road, such as corroded brake lines.
On my 91 Grand Marquis (owned since new), the fuel line developed a pinhole leak on the shadowed side of the fuel line that didn't get covered with rustproofing. This only shows I need to be more diligent with rustproofing.
On my 91 Grand Marquis (owned since new), the fuel line developed a pinhole leak on the shadowed side of the fuel line that didn't get covered with rustproofing. This only shows I need to be more diligent with rustproofing.
I suppose it depends upon where the car is operated. My'72 has lived its whole life in central Calif and now western washington. Thye don't seem to experience significant corrosion.
Mine are good for 10-13 years in the northeast. They rust out before any other rust trouble spots in some cases, like the bottoms of doors.
Had one like just blow on my 13-year old dakota in my driveway. Fixed that by replacing all the front lines and when I bled those by stomping on the pedal the rear lines went.
I was very very happy I was sitting still.
It's another good reason you should keep an eye under the car. It might be prudent to really stand on the pedal when you're sitting still every oil change or so. Brake lines are actually really easy and cheap to change out BEFORE the soft nuts on their ends rust away to nothingness.
I don't see many people talking about maintenance or inspection of these things... while the states in New England and the northeast have vehicle inspection programs I shudder to think about the rest of the rust belt where this might not be caught in time by knowlegable eyes. And of course in my case neither my mechanic nor myself saw the warning signs.
Had one like just blow on my 13-year old dakota in my driveway. Fixed that by replacing all the front lines and when I bled those by stomping on the pedal the rear lines went.
It's another good reason you should keep an eye under the car. It might be prudent to really stand on the pedal when you're sitting still every oil change or so. Brake lines are actually really easy and cheap to change out BEFORE the soft nuts on their ends rust away to nothingness.
I don't see many people talking about maintenance or inspection of these things... while the states in New England and the northeast have vehicle inspection programs I shudder to think about the rest of the rust belt where this might not be caught in time by knowlegable eyes. And of course in my case neither my mechanic nor myself saw the warning signs.
I live in the rust belt. I have run several cars 10-11 years with the original steel lines including a 71 Valiant rust bucket. I replaced the lines on my 77 Chevy LUV in the early 90's before they went. Crap, may be time again.
When I worked at the brake shop, a big part of my job was fabricating brake lines, mostly replacing cruddy, pitted rusted ones. With a set of benders and a double flare tool, I could duplicate the factory ones. I would double flare union lengths into the middle of a cut ball flare line for the newer cars. Usually we could salvage the oversize nuts that went into the MC. Best technique was to cut the line off and use a 6 point socket to remove it. Often the customer's hair was still standing on end.
Make an effort to check the hardest places where crud can build up on them. That is usually where they rust out. Never use compression fittings to splice brake lines. They sometimes fail.
Did a lot of fuel, power steering, and transmission lines too. Often a junkyard would cut transmission or steering lines assuring the customer it would fit, and then the customer discovered the replacement part had different fittings.
When I worked at the brake shop, a big part of my job was fabricating brake lines, mostly replacing cruddy, pitted rusted ones. With a set of benders and a double flare tool, I could duplicate the factory ones. I would double flare union lengths into the middle of a cut ball flare line for the newer cars. Usually we could salvage the oversize nuts that went into the MC. Best technique was to cut the line off and use a 6 point socket to remove it. Often the customer's hair was still standing on end.
Make an effort to check the hardest places where crud can build up on them. That is usually where they rust out. Never use compression fittings to splice brake lines. They sometimes fail.
Did a lot of fuel, power steering, and transmission lines too. Often a junkyard would cut transmission or steering lines assuring the customer it would fit, and then the customer discovered the replacement part had different fittings.
Kestas, what do you use to rustproof your vehicles? I have been interested in doing this for some time.
Got everything together tonight & took it out for a short drive. Oh what a difference it makes, pedal is much firmer & it actually feels like it wants to stop. I have always drove conservatively letting off the gas some distance from stopsigns & coasting down to 45 or under before applying the brakes which is why I got so far out of them. Someone who rushes right up to the intersection would have noticed this much sooner. Fuel lines look like it's just a matter of time before they go
Steve
Steve
Yeah, and it is almost paid for.
The brake lines rust from the outside, but I guess when the metal at the bottom of the pit gets thin enough, the pressure inside blows it.
Fuel lines will last a lot longer because they arent subjected to the internal pressure a brake line is. LM you have a Luv that runs?
Back in my wood burning stove days I bought a 67 Chevy pickup for $500, and had the brake line fail. Took it to shop and told them to replace the brake lines. They told me the lines were in pretty good shape, so they just replaced the failed area! This happened several times, and no matter how much I insisted, they would not replace all the lines! Finally got rid of the truck..... It gave me many exciting adventures, lucky to still be here....
I think it depends on where a person lives and drives. I live in Ont. Canada where they salt the road and vehicles see a lot of corrosion.
I think it also depends on what county a person is in or how liberal they are with the salt they put on the certain roads which are driven.
It would depend on what type of metal was used in the manufacture of the line. Inclusions and such will affect the galvanic corrosion of the metal.The annual temperature will also affect corrosion rate. I don't know if brake lines have any standards as far as corrosion is concerned.
I work on ship and we are not allowed to paint the wooden Jacobs ladder or repaint the lifting hook of the crane because it would hide any rot or cracks that have developed from eyesight.
For what the job is worth I would inspect every year and replace lines (fuel and brake) every 3 years where I live.
I worked in a scrap yard for 7 years when younger and the areas that are hidden are the worst for rust. ie. Gas lines above the fuel tank. Areas of brake line along the frame tucked up high. I think that is because the sand and road salt collect up there and don't get washed off by rain water like the exposed areas of the undercarrige does.
I took a trip to Manitoba where they dont use salt and for me it was like going thru a time warp. So many old cars driving around. Here, cars literally fall apart after bout 10 years or 225,000KM.
I think it also depends on what county a person is in or how liberal they are with the salt they put on the certain roads which are driven.
It would depend on what type of metal was used in the manufacture of the line. Inclusions and such will affect the galvanic corrosion of the metal.The annual temperature will also affect corrosion rate. I don't know if brake lines have any standards as far as corrosion is concerned.
I work on ship and we are not allowed to paint the wooden Jacobs ladder or repaint the lifting hook of the crane because it would hide any rot or cracks that have developed from eyesight.
For what the job is worth I would inspect every year and replace lines (fuel and brake) every 3 years where I live.
I worked in a scrap yard for 7 years when younger and the areas that are hidden are the worst for rust. ie. Gas lines above the fuel tank. Areas of brake line along the frame tucked up high. I think that is because the sand and road salt collect up there and don't get washed off by rain water like the exposed areas of the undercarrige does.
I took a trip to Manitoba where they dont use salt and for me it was like going thru a time warp. So many old cars driving around. Here, cars literally fall apart after bout 10 years or 225,000KM.
Kestas
Staff member
To rustproof my cars I use what is called "Texaco Rustproofing Compound". There are only a few shops in Detroit that use this compound.
I use it because the corrosion engineers at Chrysler (when I worked there) told me this is the best compound out there. It doesn't harden or turn waxy like some compounds, which can then trap corrodants and make the problem worse. Texaco Rustproofing Compound remains greasy (or wet) and must be reapplied every few years as it dries out or washes away in the high wash areas.
My source for the compound is at a lubricant distribution center in Detroit. It's avaliable in 5 gallon pails, 1/4-barrels, and I imagine also in larger quantities. I apply it heavily and a 5-gal pail lasts for a number of jobs. I used the 1/4 barrel for 10 jobs.
To apply it I use compressed air and my spray gun. The spray gun has modified custom tip that I fabricated with a length of brake line attached to it. The spray gun is set up to pressure-spray heavy fluids, similar to spraying enamel.
When selling my cars, during buyer inspection, I've had mechanics praise the rustproofing job. So I'm sure I do a better job than any rustproofing shop.
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