Brake line recommendation

NibbanaBanana

NibbanaBanana

Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
345
Location
New England
Greetings Oilmen,
I need to replace the rear brake line in my 2002 E150. Rock Auto has the Poly Armour PVF and the nickle copper. What's the best? Have to drop the tank to do this. Thanks.
Nibbana
 
I bought this NiCopp by SUR&R after some research.

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There are cheaper made in China versions but they are thinner and will kink and eventually rust.
 
In the past I was using this NiCopp, is also the thicker 0.028" walled type, but it has practically doubled in price over the last ~3 years or so:


The polyarmour steel line isn't very hard to work with, I've done fairly straight runs with it in the past due to Autozone carrying it so had it to use right away, but I'd much rather have the NiCopp for front wheels due to the (typically) more convoluted paths and bends if you want to follow the factory line routes.

One other thing about the Polyarmour is Autozone has it pre-flared (double flare) in various lengths, as long as you need standard 3/8-24 fittings on it... not sure if they stock pre-flared with other fitting sizes.
 
NibbanaBanana said:
Greetings Oilmen,
I need to replace the rear brake line in my 2002 E150. Rock Auto has the Poly Armour PVF and the nickle copper. What's the best? Have to drop the tank to do this. Thanks.
Nibbana
Click to expand...
Either will outlast your truck. Nothing says you have to follow the same route. I rerouted a brake line going to the right rear to avoid dropping the tank.
 
Dave9 said:
In the past I was using this NiCopp, is also the thicker 0.028" walled type, but it has practically doubled in price over the last ~3 years or so:


The polyarmour steel line isn't very hard to work with, I've done fairly straight runs with it in the past due to Autozone carrying it so had it to use right away, but I'd much rather have the NiCopp for front wheels due to the (typically) more convoluted paths and bends if you want to follow the factory line routes.

One other thing about the Polyarmour is Autozone has it pre-flared (double flare) in various lengths, as long as you need standard 3/8-24 fittings on it... not sure if they stock pre-flared with other fitting sizes.
Click to expand...
It was a lot more expensive but I don't change brake lines very often. I don't mind flaring them either. I saw one YT video where the guy said the front fitting was a bubble flare rather than a double inverted. I think it might have been on a F150 though so I'm not sure what I have. Can't imagine why Ford would use two different types of flares.
 
Lubener said:
Either will outlast your truck. Nothing says you have to follow the same route. I rerouted a brake line going to the right rear to avoid dropping the tank.
Click to expand...
I though very hard about that. I could run it on the outside of the frame rail but it's a pretty long run (extra long wheelbase van) and it would have to be secured well. I don't want to drill through the frame. Besides the brake line there are some vapor lines in there. I wouldn't want to damage them. And fitting a custom made line is going to be a lot harder than matching up with the old one too. It's even difficult to get to the fittings where the line attaches to the other lines because the fittings are so close to the tank. The tank is so huge there's not a lot of room to work in there.

Also the hanger straps themselves are pretty clean but the bolts that hold them look like they were down with the Titanic. Just looking at them makes me nervous so I want to swap them out. Along with the filler pipe which also looks like it was on the Titanic. Not that I have to drop the tank to swap either of those.

If I had a lift it would be a lot easier to work under there. The vehicle is 21 years old and I guess it's time for some new parts. It's funny, a lot of the truck is pretty clean, but some parts are just a pile of rust. The replacement cost for these things is stratospheric. About the same as I paid for my first house 27 years ago. I don't put many miles on it. It would sure be nice if I could get another five years out of the thing. I don't mind putting some work in.
 
I really like the nickel/copper lines, it's so much easier to work with and you can make beautiful bubble and double flares effortlessly. It doesn't seem to corrode at all. My only caution is to carefully route the lines and insulate any areas that may rub on another surface since it is a softer material it MAY wear through easier.
 
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When I did my truck I left the old one, bent the new one about to the shape it should be and ran it down the frame. Secured in from ahead of and behind the tank w zip ties and let it be. I did cut some hose and put it on it in places I thought it may rub. Leave the tank be and just run along side of it, as eljefino recommended.
 
If anybody needs some single-line, brake line clips, AGS had by far the best price I found on 3/8" and 1/4", especially due to free shipping (only continental US I presume). $3 delivered for a 10 pack.

Sometimes I just leave the old line and wire tie the new one to it, but sometimes not if it's not too much trouble to put a new clip on... assuming the old one may be brittle by the time the line has rusted out.

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Brake Tube Body Clamp, 3/16

Brake Tube Body Clamp, 3/16", Single, Bag of 10
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Brake Tube Body Clamp, 1/4

Brake Tube Body Clamp, 1/4", Single, Bag of 10
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I have used both, nothing beats the malleability of NiCop, not even close. If you are a master with bending and flaring, the steel can work. If not, NiCop is the answer. I replaced the entire brake pipe in a 2000 Olds Bravada with NiCop pre cut lengths with ends.

Can't beat the stuff for a home mechanic.

Here are pictures of the before and after replacing the oem steel with the NiCop on the Bravada. I ran the NiCop all the way to the ABS unit on the Bravada. I originally tried this with new steel pipe, but the skill it takes to bend steel pipe without kinks, restrictions made me migrate to NiCop.

IMG_0668.jpg
IMG_0671.jpg
 
NibbanaBanana said:
I though very hard about that. I could run it on the outside of the frame rail but it's a pretty long run (extra long wheelbase van) and it would have to be secured well. I don't want to drill through the frame. Besides the brake line there are some vapor lines in there. I wouldn't want to damage them. And fitting a custom made line is going to be a lot harder than matching up with the old one too. It's even difficult to get to the fittings where the line attaches to the other lines because the fittings are so close to the tank. The tank is so huge there's not a lot of room to work in there.

Also the hanger straps themselves are pretty clean but the bolts that hold them look like they were down with the Titanic. Just looking at them makes me nervous so I want to swap them out. Along with the filler pipe which also looks like it was on the Titanic. Not that I have to drop the tank to swap either of those.

If I had a lift it would be a lot easier to work under there. The vehicle is 21 years old and I guess it's time for some new parts. It's funny, a lot of the truck is pretty clean, but some parts are just a pile of rust. The replacement cost for these things is stratospheric. About the same as I paid for my first house 27 years ago. I don't put many miles on it. It would sure be nice if I could get another five years out of the thing. I don't mind putting some work in.
Click to expand...
There are usually many spots which you could fasten without having to drill.
 
The old line runs in the U frame of the chassis. The tank fits right up against it and completely blocks access. You can't even get your fingers in there. The tank is about 7 feet long. 35 gallon tank. The only accessible parts of the U channel of the frame are the bottom and the side. Can't mount a brake line on the bottom for safely. The side is pretty clean except for 1 bracket that holds the parking brake cable.
A master mechanic I know said I could try to snake a line through but it's still going to be just floating around in there. And the line can't have a fitting on it because it's going to hang up in all the plastic clips in there. So at least one end is going to have to be flared after it's snaked through. Not impossible but am thinking it might be worth it to go to the trouble of dropping the tank so I can use the existing clips and get a more secure install. As I said, I'm going to change the tank hangers and fill pipe either way.
Just kicking some ideas around.
 
GON said:
I have used both, nothing beats the malleability of NiCop, not even close. If you are a master with bending and flaring, the steel can work. If not, NiCop is the answer. I replaced the entire brake pipe in a 2000 Olds Bravada with NiCop pre cut lengths with ends.

Can't beat the stuff for a home mechanic.

Here are pictures of the before and after replacing the oem steel with the NiCop on the Bravada. I ran the NiCop all the way to the ABS unit on the Bravada. I originally tried this with new steel pipe, but the skill it takes to bend steel pipe without kinks, restrictions made me migrate to NiCop.

View attachment 150774View attachment 150773
Click to expand...
Nice job! For vehicles that off road or gravel roads I use this over the line. it looks nice and clean and available in 1/4".
Edit: Always use this on front wheel lines where it goes to the rubber line, most vehicles have it OE in that area.



 
Last edited:
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Three years ago I replaced both the fuel and the brake lines on my old Accord. Five lines total. I used Cunifer lines and now three years later they still look great. I had already done this on my old BMW but the job was actually much more difficult on the Accord due to the way the lines were attached to a tray which was then bolted to the underside of the car. Anyway, I would suggest a good flaring tool (I borrowed a hydraulic tool from a friend) and lots of patience. Here are a couple of pictures from the Accord. The long curved section is above the fuel tank, and that is the part that failed.

IMG_8534.jpeg
IMG_8536.jpeg
 
Last edited:
NibbanaBanana said:
It was a lot more expensive but I don't change brake lines very often. I don't mind flaring them either. I saw one YT video where the guy said the front fitting was a bubble flare rather than a double inverted. I think it might have been on a F150 though so I'm not sure what I have. Can't imagine why Ford would use two different types of flares.
Click to expand...
ford used to have a inverted flare and a bubble flare on the same line on taurus's starting in the eighties so nothing would be a surprise
 
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