I don't remember my 1960 or 68 VW but, 10W below zero, 20w above zero and 30 above 30 and 40 above 50 or something like that. a 20w50 is totally too heavy. 5w30 winter & 10w30 or 10w40 summer might be someting to consider.
Blew a Filter this morning
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Originally Posted By: Steve S
The Fram racing filters will hold the pressure.
i agree. i have a '67 Porsche w/ 4 cyl. On the last rebuild I had the full flow filter system installed (stock is bypass system). The builder told me to use the racing type filters because of the extreme pressures that could be built up. I'm currently use the Purolator filter that seems to be the equivalent and haven't had any problems.
The Fram racing filters will hold the pressure.
i agree. i have a '67 Porsche w/ 4 cyl. On the last rebuild I had the full flow filter system installed (stock is bypass system). The builder told me to use the racing type filters because of the extreme pressures that could be built up. I'm currently use the Purolator filter that seems to be the equivalent and haven't had any problems.
Tim H.- Yes, I forgot about the first relief, but doesn't that just bypass the cooler rather than control absolut pressure? I forgotten exactly how that 1st one is piped.
I know my oil pump cover does not have a relief built in. Maybe I should have got the Berg instead of CB Performance. I think the Bergs have that feature.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
I remember burning the paint off the oil pan of my MGA with a Hibachi...
I know my oil pump cover does not have a relief built in. Maybe I should have got the Berg instead of CB Performance. I think the Bergs have that feature.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
I remember burning the paint off the oil pan of my MGA with a Hibachi...
Yes, but as the piston goes further down, it opens another hole into the crankcase. The problem with this is, as the engines got bigger (and the pump went to 26mm), it would overtax that relief and starve the bearings at higher rpms, so they put the other relief in to compensate for that. This is one reason also, that those "high pressure" springs you can put in there cause alot of issues, because they wont open that second port and in doing that, it "increases" the pressure. Yes, the BERG IMHO, is the better product on that. I spoke with Gene years ago and he was sure a grumpy olé' bastage!
No, even that is too heavy for me in the winter.
Maybe the 10W-60 stuff some BMWs call for (Castrol, I think), or changing weights from winter to summer would be better. Not sure what the price on the 10W-60 is though.
Here are the elements. The Delco looks like the pleats are a little bent, but might have already been that way.
The ProSelect looks perfect. There was no apparent damage to the bypasses or endcaps on either one.
The NAPA blew the O-ring but the cans were both intact--just bulged.
No problems now I have 10W-40 in.
The ProSelect looks perfect. There was no apparent damage to the bypasses or endcaps on either one.
The NAPA blew the O-ring but the cans were both intact--just bulged.
No problems now I have 10W-40 in.
If the 15w50 Mobil1 weeps too much, definitely give the Castrol 5w50 a run. GroupIII might weep less. Mobil1 and Castrol also have that Vtwin 20w50 bikers which might be a summer choice, as they are designed for air-cooled leakers.
And, there's always ValvolineRacing synth 20w50.
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? Love to know, at what oil PSI does the filter balloon? 150psi?
I bet that you're glad that you didn't have one of those single-thread or poorly threaded oil filters, which would've shot off the engine like a water-rocket.
I expected the media to be fine. This is an issue of high oil pressure, both before and after the filter. There probably wasn't much differential pressure too worry about.
The other option is the racing filter. I'm under the impression that the 51515R and other brand equivalents won't burst at 500psi. A Tracko or Stilko also has some solid construction to prevent 'user errors' like this.
And, there's always ValvolineRacing synth 20w50.
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? Love to know, at what oil PSI does the filter balloon? 150psi?
I bet that you're glad that you didn't have one of those single-thread or poorly threaded oil filters, which would've shot off the engine like a water-rocket.
I expected the media to be fine. This is an issue of high oil pressure, both before and after the filter. There probably wasn't much differential pressure too worry about.
The other option is the racing filter. I'm under the impression that the 51515R and other brand equivalents won't burst at 500psi. A Tracko or Stilko also has some solid construction to prevent 'user errors' like this.
That's a good idea, I should try Group III.
Yes I have a pressure gauge, but it reads downstream of the filter where the relief piston is. The OP guage is what I look at to tell if the engine is getting too hot. Normally runs ~40 PSI at ~3800 RPM at full, highway temperature. With 10W-40 in the summer, I've seen it as low as 22 PSI at that RPM. Cold idle runs maybe 60 for a few minutes in the winter.
But the guage never got much above 40 when the filter gasket blew because the location of the relief.
Pump--->Dirty side of filter--->Clean side of filter--->OP guage and relief.
So unfortunately, the dirty side of the filter space between the canister and the element was never measured. The bypass just couldn't bring that pressure down enough and kablooie...
The paper on these is intact though. The paper elements and center tubes never split or tore. The cans were intact except for the bulging, just the gasket blew on the ProSelect.
Yes I have a pressure gauge, but it reads downstream of the filter where the relief piston is. The OP guage is what I look at to tell if the engine is getting too hot. Normally runs ~40 PSI at ~3800 RPM at full, highway temperature. With 10W-40 in the summer, I've seen it as low as 22 PSI at that RPM. Cold idle runs maybe 60 for a few minutes in the winter.
But the guage never got much above 40 when the filter gasket blew because the location of the relief.
Pump--->Dirty side of filter--->Clean side of filter--->OP guage and relief.
So unfortunately, the dirty side of the filter space between the canister and the element was never measured. The bypass just couldn't bring that pressure down enough and kablooie...
The paper on these is intact though. The paper elements and center tubes never split or tore. The cans were intact except for the bulging, just the gasket blew on the ProSelect.
Back in the day, the multi-vis oils weren't good enough for air cooled engines. Single weights were the best choice then. I remember SAE 20 looking like caramel ice cream topping during a Wyoming winter. Anyone remember SAE 20W20? It met the 20 wt hot spec and the 20W cold spec. Most single weights didn't have a cold spec to meet.
I'm surprised those filters didn't self-relieve, tear the filter media, and push scraps of media throughout the engine internals. You're lucky.
I'm surprised those filters didn't self-relieve, tear the filter media, and push scraps of media throughout the engine internals. You're lucky.
Originally Posted By: river_rat
So unfortunately, the dirty side of the filter space between the canister and the element was never measured. The bypass just couldn't bring that pressure down enough and kablooie...
The paper on these is intact though. The paper elements and center tubes never split or tore. The cans were intact except for the bulging, just the gasket blew on the ProSelect.
There must not have been much flow in the system, and it took some time to build-up that extreme pressure that bulged the can. Otherwise, there would have been some kind of internal filter damage seen from a huge PSID.
It sounds like the pressure regulator doesn't work very well with super thick oil.
So unfortunately, the dirty side of the filter space between the canister and the element was never measured. The bypass just couldn't bring that pressure down enough and kablooie...
The paper on these is intact though. The paper elements and center tubes never split or tore. The cans were intact except for the bulging, just the gasket blew on the ProSelect.
There must not have been much flow in the system, and it took some time to build-up that extreme pressure that bulged the can. Otherwise, there would have been some kind of internal filter damage seen from a huge PSID.
It sounds like the pressure regulator doesn't work very well with super thick oil.
Cool...love forensic analysis...thanks for posting.
I would have guessed that with enough pressure to distort the housing, that the media would have suffered damage too...but it looks like a normal run...
Huh...who would've guessed...
I would have guessed that with enough pressure to distort the housing, that the media would have suffered damage too...but it looks like a normal run...
Huh...who would've guessed...
I remember as a kid in the 70's riding with my dad in his 70 bug from Ca to Dallas. He only used Pennzoil 10w40 and he ran that bug at it's maximum and cruising speed of 78 mph per the owners manual.
I know that we made 2 back to back runs in the summer. I remember the sweltering heat across AZ and NM. That engine lasted over 120k w/o any problems.
Anyway what I'm getting at is that those air cooled engines don't need real thick oil even in Summer in AZ.
I know that we made 2 back to back runs in the summer. I remember the sweltering heat across AZ and NM. That engine lasted over 120k w/o any problems.
Anyway what I'm getting at is that those air cooled engines don't need real thick oil even in Summer in AZ.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
It sounds like the pressure regulator doesn't work very well with super thick oil.
No it's pretty small. I was spewing oil from start-up from the streak from the parking place, but I didn't know until I ran out of oil down the block and the warning light blinked on.
It sounds like the pressure regulator doesn't work very well with super thick oil.
No it's pretty small. I was spewing oil from start-up from the streak from the parking place, but I didn't know until I ran out of oil down the block and the warning light blinked on.
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