Bleeding Front Brakes
- Thread starter Lurch
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You got air in it. The only way to fix is to bleed again. Keep it full.
Originally Posted By: Lurch
Hi,
If I keep adding new brake fluid it will eventually give me back my front brakes?
The stuff that came out was kind of dark colored on one side, so I think it's good that I got it out of there.
You have to purge the air from your lines. Do you have someone to help you?
Hi,
If I keep adding new brake fluid it will eventually give me back my front brakes?
The stuff that came out was kind of dark colored on one side, so I think it's good that I got it out of there.
You have to purge the air from your lines. Do you have someone to help you?
An old trick you can try is to fill the mc and try bleeding it again. Then with a bungee or something, pull the brake lever to the grip. Tie in in that position overnight. then try pumping the lever in the am.,
Thanks I'll try that.
According to this guy, if I add more fluid and let it gravity drain through the bleeder, fluid displaces the air, if I'm not mistaken. I want to learn how to do it and flush the brake fluid at least once a year.
"Just finished mine. You do not need a vacuum pump. Just a small piece of tubing to fit over the bleed fitting. Place the tube over the fitting and open a 1/2 turn. Remove the filler cap and let it gravity drain. Clean out the reservoir with paper towels. Fill with fuid and let gravity drain.
You can go faster by actuating the the cylinder. Make sure to keep filling the reservoir to keep air out. As a final bleed, I did it just like a car. Close the bleed, apply pressure to the actuator, open the bleed a 1/4 turn till the actuator depresses. Close the bleed, release the actuator. Repeat till your satisfied it's bled hard actuator/no bubbles in tube)."
According to this guy, if I add more fluid and let it gravity drain through the bleeder, fluid displaces the air, if I'm not mistaken. I want to learn how to do it and flush the brake fluid at least once a year.
"Just finished mine. You do not need a vacuum pump. Just a small piece of tubing to fit over the bleed fitting. Place the tube over the fitting and open a 1/2 turn. Remove the filler cap and let it gravity drain. Clean out the reservoir with paper towels. Fill with fuid and let gravity drain.
You can go faster by actuating the the cylinder. Make sure to keep filling the reservoir to keep air out. As a final bleed, I did it just like a car. Close the bleed, apply pressure to the actuator, open the bleed a 1/4 turn till the actuator depresses. Close the bleed, release the actuator. Repeat till your satisfied it's bled hard actuator/no bubbles in tube)."
If it was dirty in one side you could have corrosion or seal contamination. How old is the bike and fluid?
Air likes to rise in the fluid. I bleed using a syringe attached to the caliper bleed nipple and pump in new fluid from there. Have the cap off the master reservior and discard the fluid as it builds up there.
Most of the time the brakes will be bled fully this way. I.e a hard lever as soon as you depress it.
Air likes to rise in the fluid. I bleed using a syringe attached to the caliper bleed nipple and pump in new fluid from there. Have the cap off the master reservior and discard the fluid as it builds up there.
Most of the time the brakes will be bled fully this way. I.e a hard lever as soon as you depress it.
IME Craig is right,,reverse bleeding is the quickest way to bleed. That being said; remove the master from the bars and tilt it so the hose end is down, slowly actuate the handle SLIGHTLY, maybe 1-2MM piston travel,repeatedly, and it will bleed the air trapped in the banjo bolt and the MC. If the res cap is off you can see the bubbles in the MC.
Good luck Smoky
Good luck Smoky
On my virago I have to have the bars at a hard right to keep the open top higher than the path down to the pads. Do you have and are you using the service stand instead of the kick?
Maybe if you got a 6 foot length of hose and a dollar store funnel you could hook the bottom to the caliper and hold the funnel higher than the MC and back-bleed it that way? Leave the lid slightly loose and when fluid starts trickling out sock it down. Hold the funnel high like an IV.
Maybe if you got a 6 foot length of hose and a dollar store funnel you could hook the bottom to the caliper and hold the funnel higher than the MC and back-bleed it that way? Leave the lid slightly loose and when fluid starts trickling out sock it down. Hold the funnel high like an IV.
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I gravity drained them again and I have some pedal now. I guess they'll be OK after a while.
Thanks for replying.
The best way to bleed the brakes is to put about four feet of clear tubing on the bleed nipple of the caliper being bled. Place the other end of the tubing into a clear jar. I use any jar big enough to take a bottle of brake fluid. I punch a hole in the top big enough to take the tube and stick the tube in the jar. Now, here's the most critical part. Elevate the glass jar so that it's at approx. handle bar height. Find a way to hang it there or have someone hold it for you. fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and start pumping the lever. Watch to see if the brake fluid level is going down. If not, slowly pump the lever and siphon the fluid into the system by sucking on the end of the tubing that goes into the jar. I know it sounds like an unpleasant thing to do but the brake fluid is a long way from getting into your mouth. When you see the level drop in the reservoir, that means you're charging the system. KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL AT ALL TIMES! NEVER LET THE LEVEL DROP TO THE FLUID INTAKE HOLE. If you do, you'll be allowing air go get into the system.
With the jar being placed up high, displaced brake fluid will enter the hose and travel up toward the jar. Pump the lever smoothly until all air is purged from the brake system. Any air coming out of the fluid will move up toward the jar and not have any chance to get back into the brakes system.
Once you've gotten all air out of the brake system, squeeze the brake lever, hold it there then tighten down the bleed nipple. You're brakes should be good after that. I've done hydraulic brakes on a number of bikes and ATVs. This is the best method yet that I have found.
I gravity drained them again and I have some pedal now. I guess they'll be OK after a while.
Thanks for replying.
The best way to bleed the brakes is to put about four feet of clear tubing on the bleed nipple of the caliper being bled. Place the other end of the tubing into a clear jar. I use any jar big enough to take a bottle of brake fluid. I punch a hole in the top big enough to take the tube and stick the tube in the jar. Now, here's the most critical part. Elevate the glass jar so that it's at approx. handle bar height. Find a way to hang it there or have someone hold it for you. fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and start pumping the lever. Watch to see if the brake fluid level is going down. If not, slowly pump the lever and siphon the fluid into the system by sucking on the end of the tubing that goes into the jar. I know it sounds like an unpleasant thing to do but the brake fluid is a long way from getting into your mouth. When you see the level drop in the reservoir, that means you're charging the system. KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL AT ALL TIMES! NEVER LET THE LEVEL DROP TO THE FLUID INTAKE HOLE. If you do, you'll be allowing air go get into the system.
With the jar being placed up high, displaced brake fluid will enter the hose and travel up toward the jar. Pump the lever smoothly until all air is purged from the brake system. Any air coming out of the fluid will move up toward the jar and not have any chance to get back into the brakes system.
Once you've gotten all air out of the brake system, squeeze the brake lever, hold it there then tighten down the bleed nipple. You're brakes should be good after that. I've done hydraulic brakes on a number of bikes and ATVs. This is the best method yet that I have found.
If you still can't get the air out you can loosen the banjo bolt right at the reservoir and pump the handle until you get a little fluid. This will "prime the pump". Tighten up the bolt and keep pumping until you get fluid coming out of the bleed screw.
Do NOT let fluid touch anything painted. Put rags and plastic bags over your tank.
Do NOT loosen the bleed screw so much that fluid sneaks back in as soon as you let go. That means you have to synchronize your pumping and tightening of the bleed screw.
Hope this helps!
Do NOT let fluid touch anything painted. Put rags and plastic bags over your tank.
Do NOT loosen the bleed screw so much that fluid sneaks back in as soon as you let go. That means you have to synchronize your pumping and tightening of the bleed screw.
Hope this helps!
Hi-
I meant to update this thread. My bike brakes are fine now. I haven't touched them since the day I got back a little bit of pedal, and they have became close to the way they once were. Was glad to get dirty and yellowish looking fluid out of there.
Next year when I do it again, I'll be more familiar with how to do it right. Thanks for your replies.
I meant to update this thread. My bike brakes are fine now. I haven't touched them since the day I got back a little bit of pedal, and they have became close to the way they once were. Was glad to get dirty and yellowish looking fluid out of there.
Next year when I do it again, I'll be more familiar with how to do it right. Thanks for your replies.
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