Best oil for cleaning and stopping blow-by
- Thread starter OM605
- Start date
Blow by is combustion gassing getting past the piston rings. Stuck piston rings are usually a result of the engine oil getting past the rings or past valve guide seals.
Performing the same experiment and expecting different results, well we know what that is called.
Changing valve guide seals seems like a lot of work in 40C weather, so what to do in the meantime?
Europe is a big place and you could live in Madrid, Spain to Rovaniemi, Finland or anywhere in between. Simply going to a higher viscosity grade to solve the problem is a matter of knowing the coldest temperature on startup your car will subjected to.
Each to their own, but ambient permitting I use a group one SAE 40 such as Delo 400 or Duron to clean up old engines, followed by the appropriate multi grade hdeo.
Performing the same experiment and expecting different results, well we know what that is called.
Changing valve guide seals seems like a lot of work in 40C weather, so what to do in the meantime?
Europe is a big place and you could live in Madrid, Spain to Rovaniemi, Finland or anywhere in between. Simply going to a higher viscosity grade to solve the problem is a matter of knowing the coldest temperature on startup your car will subjected to.
Each to their own, but ambient permitting I use a group one SAE 40 such as Delo 400 or Duron to clean up old engines, followed by the appropriate multi grade hdeo.
Try hotshots stiction remover.
It's doing a great job cleaning out our gummed up rings on our honda odyssey we just bought.
Group I has become relegated to use in additive packs to keep them in suspension before blenders blend up a final lubricant/product. I'm not confident that there are many automotive lubricants that contain bulk Group I--everything's been appreciably replaced with Group II in North America. @Foxtrot08
That’s called “making a submission to a higher authority as a negotiation tactic”.
Not really. Facts aren't negotiated, and he is a great source of truth for the forum. He's not a 'pal.' If I'm wrong, he's willing to squash my statement. And that's a reply helpful to me and this thread..
"Today, in the US, Group I base oils have been displaced by Group II oils"
Also, he has mentioned the cost of group I has gotten very expensive. Since Group I doesn't help blenders meet modern specs, it is rational to see that blenders aren't going to find financial leverage to use it.
Group I blends work for deposit solvency, just not confident anyone can find it on the shelf. Is there info to provide confidence on the contrary?
How Do Viscosity Index Improvers Work?
Originally Posted By: kschachn Originally Posted By: Red91 The Chevron Oronite link puts it in basic, understandable terms. If I'm interpreting correctly, the VII allows more flow at lower temperatures because it shrinks the oil's molecules, no? No. Nothing is happening with the oil. The oil...
bobistheoilguy.com
Also, he has mentioned the cost of group I has gotten very expensive. Since Group I doesn't help blenders meet modern specs, it is rational to see that blenders aren't going to find financial leverage to use it.
Group I blends work for deposit solvency, just not confident anyone can find it on the shelf. Is there info to provide confidence on the contrary?
You are completely correct.
Group I base oils are essentially reserved to strictly industrial products and maybe, maybe solubilizing certain additives. But the vast majority of “straight” weights are group 2’s.
For OP’s question, I would recommend an engine oil systems cleaner. HPL makes one, a lot of others make one. I would go that way, or an ester based product (HPL, redline, etc.) instead of trying to shake stuff out with an HDMO. Why? HDMO won’t hurt anything, but at the same time esters, and oil systems cleaners are proven to work.
That’s all.
But yeah group I’s aren’t common.
Like I said clean the PCV valve / oil separator out first.
Using an oil system cleaner or engine flush is more than likely to have fun with worn oil seals as well - instead just fill with the cheapest conventional oil that meets the spec and change oil after a few hundred miles, once or twice. Yes I know they all say they have seal protectant additives.
Using an oil system cleaner or engine flush is more than likely to have fun with worn oil seals as well - instead just fill with the cheapest conventional oil that meets the spec and change oil after a few hundred miles, once or twice. Yes I know they all say they have seal protectant additives.
I am going to remove the CCV next week while everything is apart (valve cover & intake plenum gaskets). Did an oil change two days ago, flushed the engine for 15 min with a liter of diesel, put 7 liters of fresh 15W40 in and a new filter and there's less blow-by now. Still some but 100% sure that either the flush or the 15W40 did something.
Without doing a leak down test how do you know what the blow-by is?
Just the old cap dance test. I know, it's just observation and i don't have numbers to back it up.
Valvoline premium blue RESTORE. Hard to find but works. You’ll need to go to a truck service center to find it.
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