Cheesy, what viscosity does the owner's manual recommend? I'm guessing a 40- or 50-weight.
Unless you're doing short OCIs (1,500 miles) you have to get some UOAs to determine how much blow-by your particular motor generates and how well your oil and air filtration systems work. Some bikes have great filtration systems that will support longer OCIs, but many don't, so it's best to remain conservative with your OCIs until you can determine how good your bike is.
Also recognize that your transmission will shear the heck out of almost every oil in very short order, so you want to find an oil that uses the fewest viscosity index (VI) improvers. These oils have the smallest spread between the "W" rating and the API weight. For example, a 5W-40 has a 35 point spread and probably has a fair amount of VI improvers. A 20W-40 has only a 20 point spread and probably has very few VI improvers. Also, synthetic oils need fewer VI improvers than conventional oils, so if you can afford synth it'll stay in grade longer than conventional oils.
So, to start out with short OCIs (1,500 miles) I'd use a 15W-40 conventional oil (any of the HDEOs like Rotella, Delo, etc.). Note that the Rotella 5W-40 that you're using isn't a true synthetic (Group IV or V); it's a highly refined conventional motor oil (Group III).
If you start doing UOAs on this oil you should be able to safely increase your OCIs to the maximum your particular bike can achieve. You'll likely find that you'll need to switch to synth to keep the oil in grade, though, and Redline 10W-40 seems to be highly resistant to shearing.
Lastly, LubeControl (LC) is a good additive that will help prevent oxidation and prolong your oil's useful life. If you're willing to tolerate mucking around with additives, it's a good one.