Best Gas & Diesel Oil????

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: daman
Has nothing to do with FE,cold start ups and no you didn't not much proof if you ask me.

I thought he was asking the relationship between engine wear and using incorrect viscosity. I posted dexos-related info, and similar info can be found on ACEA documents, Toyota documents, and at other places with a simple Google search.

So, I take it that you aren't backing your claim (5W-20 works just fine in my 5W-30-recommended engine) with a UOA.

 

[BobFout]

Amsoil AMO 10w40.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan


...Using lower hot viscosity than recommended results in engine damage, excessive oil consumption.In virtually all cases

...using xW-40 weight in a gasoline engine that specifies xW-30 won't hurt it though, as long as the xW-40 oil has the latest API gasoline specification (SM or SN).


Here since i'm loosing you i'll refresh your thoughts...

1-show me your damaged engine and oil usage?(you said it not me)

"In virtually all cases"

^^Really??? not in mine and others on the board running thinner then spec's lubes.

and last so if i run a API SL my engine will blow up?
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
So, I take it that you aren't backing your claim (5W-20 works just fine in my 5W-30-recommended engine) with a UOA.

lol...backing it up??? UOA?? i'm living my claims right out side in the shop where both tucks are sitting!...lol

 

[daman]

Last post it was fun G...lol

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: daman
lol...backing it up??? UOA?? i'm living my claims right out side in the shop where both tucks are sitting!...lol

Thanks, that answers all my questions.

 

[jetman]

So far I like BobFout suggestion, Amsoil AMO, the most.

Thoughts?

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: jetman
Thoughts?

Ams is a fine product!

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: jetman
So far I like BobFout suggestion, Amsoil AMO, the most.

Thoughts?

That viscosity (10W-40) will work in Texas and with diesel engines and that seems to be a very good oil. The only drawback is that it's not CJ-4 but CI-4 Plus and therefore it doesn't have the maximum protection against soot.

The other good choice would be the CJ-4 Amsoil 5W-40. The price is the same.

Make your decision based on what is recommended for your equipment in terms of service category (CJ-4 or CI-4 Plus).

 

[3311]

Rotella t5 10w40 would be an excellent choice, cost effective compared Amsoil or other full synthetic, and is capable of an extended oci. And it would work in the gassers as well.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: 3311
Rotella t5 10w40 would be an excellent choice, cost effective compared Amsoil or other full synthetic, and is capable of an extended oci. And it would work in the gassers as well.

That's also a CJ-4 oil, which is good.

I would be much more comfortable running a CJ-4 oil in a gasoline engine than a CI-4 Plus oil.

I don't think there is any reason to use a CI-4 oil instead of a CJ-4 oil even in pre-2007 diesel engines. CJ-4 exceeds CI-4 in all respects as far as I know. I wouldn't worry too much about the actual amount of ZDDP and the starting TBN, the reason why some people prefer CI-4, as CJ-4 is a more optimally designed oil and will provide better protection in general.

 

[Bambam]

Search AEHaas in the gasoline UOA section. He has been using thin oils in his exotic sports car for years. One car spec'ed a 10w60 and he is using 5w20. Now he doesn't have a long range or "lifetime" of data yet, but what he does have is proof that the thin oils will and are working just fine.

One article about a new to the market oil that happens to mention a claim you make is reason enough to believe it to be true and fact? I'd like to see some UOA's showing exactly what you said Gokhan.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: Bambam
Search AEHaas in the gasoline UOA section. He has been using thin oils in his exotic sports car for years. One car spec'ed a 10w60 and he is using 5w20. Now he doesn't have a long range or "lifetime" of data yet, but what he does have is proof that the thin oils will and are working just fine.

One article about a new to the market oil that happens to mention a claim you make is reason enough to believe it to be true and fact? I'd like to see some UOA's showing exactly what you said Gokhan.

He is using an unusual oil. Even though it's 0W-20, its HTHS viscosity, which is the most crucial viscosity, is like of an xW-30 oil.

It's also a new engine and AMG engines are obviously high-quality engines that won't wear that quick. He is seeing high levels of fuel dilution though, which might have to do with the xW-20 weight. It's also not clear what kind of oil consumption he is seeing.

HTHS viscosity is such a critical factor in choosing an oil that, unlike in the API categories, it's built into the ACEA categories.

 

[pair of Blazers]

Amsoil ACD. now while I don't know too much about the diesel side of things, this has been good all around oil for every thing I have.
specs
• API CI-4+/CH-4/SL, CF, CF-2
• Global DHD-1
• ACEA A3/B3, E3, E5
• JASO DH-1 • Mack EO-M+, EO-N Premium Plus ’03
• Detroit Diesel Power Guard 93K214
• Caterpillar ECF-1a, ECF-2
• Cummins CES 20076/20077/20078
• Volvo VDS-3/VDS-2
• Mercedes Benz 228.1/228.3/229.1
• MAN 271/3275
• MTU Type 2

 

[dnewton3]

Let's put a few things to bed first.

* The MOST important thing to equipment is sustained lubricant sump level. You can have the world's "best" oil, but if it is not at the correct level (too high or too low) it will lead to a nearly-immediate demise of the equipment, regardless if it's an engine, gearbox, tranny, etc. I would MUCH rather have the right amount of an oil that's on the low end of acceptable vis, as opposed to having too little oil of the preferred vis. The number one killer of lubricated things is not the vis, but the improper level of lube (too much or too little). If you've ever run a large maintenance program, you'd know this to be true.

* Vis is important; yes. But I suspect all those vehicles the OP has listed will have 10w-30 as an acceptable alternative. Perhaps it's not the "preferred" vis, but it's likely within an acceptable tolerance of lubes that are OK to use.

* We know nothing of his OCI plan, but we do know that he has a bypass filter systems on some of the equipment. If he OCIs frequently, the use of syns and bypass is a waste. If he extends his OCI, then either the syn or the bypass is of reasonable use. If he want's to GREATLY extend his OCIs, the use of syn and bypass together will get him there, with good service and good ROI.

I suspect that a good compromise (and after all, that's what he's seeking) would be a 10w-30 HDEO. The semi-syn T5 might be an excellent choice. After all, since he's intent upon ordering in bulk drum packaging, he's likely going to have to go someplace special to get it, so he can probably order his favorite flavor. There are also choices in 5w-30 HDEO PAOs (Amsoil and Castrol come to mind) but he's got to really extend the OCI (and use UOAs) to find the ROI.

I now return you to your regularly schedule mythology. Let the rhetoric rage on ...

 

[Bambam]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Bambam
Search AEHaas in the gasoline UOA section. He has been using thin oils in his exotic sports car for years. One car spec'ed a 10w60 and he is using 5w20. Now he doesn't have a long range or "lifetime" of data yet, but what he does have is proof that the thin oils will and are working just fine.

One article about a new to the market oil that happens to mention a claim you make is reason enough to believe it to be true and fact? I'd like to see some UOA's showing exactly what you said Gokhan.

He is using an unusual oil. Even though it's 0W-20, its HTHS viscosity, which is the most crucial viscosity, is like of an xW-30 oil.

It's also a new engine and AMG engines are obviously high-quality engines that won't wear that quick. He is seeing high levels of fuel dilution though, which might have to do with the xW-20 weight. It's also not clear what kind of oil consumption he is seeing.

HTHS viscosity is such a critical factor in choosing an oil that, unlike in the API categories, it's built into the ACEA categories.


Quite the techno mumbo jumbo you're linking too and pardon my simpleton mind but I did not see any reference to HTHS and the longevity of an engine in that 2004 European oil document ? Maybe it's too early for my comprehension skills??

 

[daman]

I agree with D oil level is key and yes so is vis somewhat,now going with a 10w30 in a OTRT putting down 1500+ ft,lbs to the crank and seeing up wards of 250-300deg oil temps on a hard summer pull probably not a good idea but that's not what were talking here i feel perfectly fine running T5 in my 6.5 that specs 15w40, 45psi warm crusing...

still waiting on some documented proof with shop tear down before and after pics/measurements showing a lower vis lube(with in reason) will rune an engine.

 

[Bambam]

Originally Posted By: daman
I agree with D oil level is key and yes so is vis somewhat,now going with a 10w30 in a OTRT putting down 1500+ ft,lbs to the crank and seeing up wards of 250-300deg oil temps on a hard summer pull probably not a good idea but that's not what were talking here i feel perfectly fine running T5 in my 6.5 that specs 15w40, 45psi warm crusing...

still waiting on some documented proof with shop tear down before and after pics/measurements showing a lower vis lube(with in reason) will rune an engine.


That would shut me up too.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Bambam
Originally Posted By: daman
I agree with D oil level is key and yes so is vis somewhat,now going with a 10w30 in a OTRT putting down 1500+ ft,lbs to the crank and seeing up wards of 250-300deg oil temps on a hard summer pull probably not a good idea but that's not what were talking here i feel perfectly fine running T5 in my 6.5 that specs 15w40, 45psi warm crusing...

still waiting on some documented proof with shop tear down before and after pics/measurements showing a lower vis lube(with in reason) will rune an engine.


That would shut me up too.

I would switch back to 15w40...

 

[Gokhan]

You can generally use the lowest viscosity recommended in your owner's manual if your engine is in top shape. But what is the advantage of going lower? Sure, you will see a slight gain in fuel economy and horsepower, but you will experience increased oil consumption, increased tailpipe emissions, lower oil pressure, more metal-to-metal contact because of thinner oil film, and less protection in HTHS (high-temperature, high-speed [shear]) conditions. Is it really worth it?

Also, as Dnewton3 mentioned, the most important thing always is the oil level. Why risk running out of oil due to increased consumption by using a lower viscosity than recommended?

I am not saying that you should use a thicker viscosity than recommended for your engine -- just stay with what is recommended. Engine manufacturers calculate the oil clearances for a specific viscosity and oil pressure and going to a lower viscosity than recommended is far riskier than going to a higher viscosity.

 

[Bambam]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
You can generally use the lowest viscosity recommended in your owner's manual if your engine is in top shape. But what is the advantage of going lower? Sure, you will see a slight gain in fuel economy and horsepower, but you will experience increased oil consumption, increased tailpipe emissions, lower oil pressure, more metal-to-metal contact because of thinner oil film, and less protection in HTHS (high-temperature, high-speed [shear]) conditions. Is it really worth it?
Also, as Dnewton3 mentioned, the most important thing always is the oil level. Why risk running out of oil due to increased consumption by using a lower viscosity than recommended?

I am not saying that you should use a thicker viscosity than recommended for your engine -- just stay with what is recommended. Engine manufacturers calculate the oil clearances for a specific viscosity and oil pressure and going to a lower viscosity than recommended is far riskier than going to a higher viscosity.


All we ask is for some proof of your statements.