Battery (?) trouble
- Thread starter weebl
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I've been tricked by many a bad battery that would feign decent voltage unloaded but couldn't even turn the engine over one compression stroke. That's a classic sign of plate sulfation, presuming those battery cables/connections are still able to carry big amps. Have been tricked by bad connections too.
Interesting results weebl. Yeah, definitely re-wire those corroded cables and let us know
Originally Posted By: Or
And these cars are made in Indiana, not Toyota City, Japan. I wouldn't presume the same alternators installed in Japan made Lexus end up in Indiana made Toyota models. Quality is not as uniform across the brand(s) as it used to be.
That's a good point.
Interesting results weebl. Yeah, definitely re-wire those corroded cables and let us know
Originally Posted By: Or
And these cars are made in Indiana, not Toyota City, Japan. I wouldn't presume the same alternators installed in Japan made Lexus end up in Indiana made Toyota models. Quality is not as uniform across the brand(s) as it used to be.
That's a good point.
Originally Posted By: weebl
Thank you, I will test the diodes using the multimeter in AC mode.
Some interesting observations when I got home last night and looked at the vehicle:
Battery charger was showing that it was maintaining the battery. The vehicle started just fine on the first try.
Ran voltage tests, vehicle running, not running, all voltages seem to be reading normally. After a drive to do a quick errand (the vehicle did not need help restarting), and returning home, I tested the battery after giving it a chance to rest, to determine the charge level (vehicle off, no charger connected): 12.73 volts exactly.
I disconnected the positive cable, and used the multimeter to measure if there was any sort of parasitic load. After keeping the leads connected for a few minutes, the vehicle went to sleep, and the readings fluctuated between 0.00 amps to 0.01 amps. So that seems normal.
I did notice where the insulation on the positive battery cable peeled back a bit, that there was some very mild evidence of oxidation. Nothing heavy, but possibly something inside the cable?
Reconnecting the positive cable, I restarted the vehicle. Except it didn't start, it went through the cranking, then fizzled out mid-crank. Going back to the battery and checking the charge still showed it was good.
Tried restarting again after checking that the cable was indeed tightly on (even snugged it up a bit), not really sure if that did anything or not, and this time, it cranked fine and started.
If the diode test checks out, then my feeling is I need to replace the battery cables, if they are showing signs of oxidation. They are not entirely OEM, the leads near the battery were replaced and spliced far from where that first Walmart battery badly corroded the OEM cable. I had found where the corrosion ended, then went several more inches to ensure the splice was where it was clean copper. This time around, I will do the entire length of cable (unless I find the diodes are the issue, and go down that path).
Get rid of the splice. Replace that whole cable. A splice acts like a resistor unless it is formed perfectly. Far simpler to replace that positive cable with a quality all-copper cable. Don't cheap out. Get at least the gauge of cable that's already there and don't use copper clad aluminum cable.
Thank you, I will test the diodes using the multimeter in AC mode.
Some interesting observations when I got home last night and looked at the vehicle:
Battery charger was showing that it was maintaining the battery. The vehicle started just fine on the first try.
Ran voltage tests, vehicle running, not running, all voltages seem to be reading normally. After a drive to do a quick errand (the vehicle did not need help restarting), and returning home, I tested the battery after giving it a chance to rest, to determine the charge level (vehicle off, no charger connected): 12.73 volts exactly.
I disconnected the positive cable, and used the multimeter to measure if there was any sort of parasitic load. After keeping the leads connected for a few minutes, the vehicle went to sleep, and the readings fluctuated between 0.00 amps to 0.01 amps. So that seems normal.
I did notice where the insulation on the positive battery cable peeled back a bit, that there was some very mild evidence of oxidation. Nothing heavy, but possibly something inside the cable?
Reconnecting the positive cable, I restarted the vehicle. Except it didn't start, it went through the cranking, then fizzled out mid-crank. Going back to the battery and checking the charge still showed it was good.
Tried restarting again after checking that the cable was indeed tightly on (even snugged it up a bit), not really sure if that did anything or not, and this time, it cranked fine and started.
If the diode test checks out, then my feeling is I need to replace the battery cables, if they are showing signs of oxidation. They are not entirely OEM, the leads near the battery were replaced and spliced far from where that first Walmart battery badly corroded the OEM cable. I had found where the corrosion ended, then went several more inches to ensure the splice was where it was clean copper. This time around, I will do the entire length of cable (unless I find the diodes are the issue, and go down that path).
Get rid of the splice. Replace that whole cable. A splice acts like a resistor unless it is formed perfectly. Far simpler to replace that positive cable with a quality all-copper cable. Don't cheap out. Get at least the gauge of cable that's already there and don't use copper clad aluminum cable.
Quote:
Except it didn't start, it went through the cranking, then fizzled out mid-crank.
What do you mean by "fizzled"? Did it gave up instantly or labored and then gave up? If former, then it is definitely the cable. If it became slow and stopped cranking, then it would be battery.
Figure out a way to hook up the multimeter constantly on the battery then you will know if battery is supplying the oomph or not.
Except it didn't start, it went through the cranking, then fizzled out mid-crank.
What do you mean by "fizzled"? Did it gave up instantly or labored and then gave up? If former, then it is definitely the cable. If it became slow and stopped cranking, then it would be battery.
Figure out a way to hook up the multimeter constantly on the battery then you will know if battery is supplying the oomph or not.
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Get rid of the splice. Replace that whole cable. A splice acts like a resistor unless it is formed perfectly. Far simpler to replace that positive cable with a quality all-copper cable. Don't cheap out. Get at least the gauge of cable that's already there and don't use copper clad aluminum cable.
Yeah this. It's bad enough to cut off a bad end and crimp a new end on, as you've lost at least an inch of cable doing that and they make the cables just long enough now.
You could wire up a relay for the trailer wires so they only work when the ignition's on.
You could shoot an infared heat gun at your stone cold alternator and see if it's warmer than ambient temp, from current going through the diodes.
Get rid of the splice. Replace that whole cable. A splice acts like a resistor unless it is formed perfectly. Far simpler to replace that positive cable with a quality all-copper cable. Don't cheap out. Get at least the gauge of cable that's already there and don't use copper clad aluminum cable.
Yeah this. It's bad enough to cut off a bad end and crimp a new end on, as you've lost at least an inch of cable doing that and they make the cables just long enough now.
You could wire up a relay for the trailer wires so they only work when the ignition's on.
You could shoot an infared heat gun at your stone cold alternator and see if it's warmer than ambient temp, from current going through the diodes.
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