That's the LV version, unlike the original formula you were hoping for. However, you won't have any issues using the variety that you ordered even in the PS system.
ATF for 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with A131L
- Thread starter kengrome
- Start date
Hopefully he's checking the oil consistently with that 1.8l. They usually start eating oil after 100k due to the rings. The "ultimate oil fix" on the forums will solve all that, but it's a bit of work. Zero oil consumption 30k miles after doing it here.
It actually got warm enough today so that I was able to jack up the front end of the car, drain the differential oil, and replace it with the Castrol Transmax.
I guesstimate about one and a quarter quarts of old oil removed. It was very dark red-brown to black in color, but at least the differential was still reasonably full, and there is no evidence of leaks or damage to the differential case, so that's a good thing.
There's a little magnet about a quarter inch diameter in the end of the drain plug. It had a tiny little bit of super-small metal particles attached to it which suggest to me that the differential is still in really good shape.
I managed to put 1/2 cup (or maybe a little bit more) ATF into the differential than I drained out. I just stuck the small end of a funnel into a 2 foot piece of clear vinyl hose I had laying around, and that worked great for filling it.
I did not buy or install new aluminum crush washers on either the fill plug or the drain plug, but I cleaned all the surfaces well with brake parts cleaner and I torqued the bolts down tightly enough so nothing is leaking. I will check again for leaks the next time I work on it (which should be in a few days) but I don't expect any leaks since I've always had good luck reusing these types of washers.
BTW, if anyone is interested, the fill bolt is 17mm which I removed from below with a flat ratcheting box-end wrench. But the drain plug requires a 10mm Allen wrench which I did not have, so I made a trip to Harbor Freight and picked up a set of six 3/8 inch drive metric Allen-head sockets on sale for six bucks. The 10mm was the largest in the set and it worked perfectly.
Also note that I removed the front driver side wheel/tire which made it easier for me to crawl under the car and reach around to where I could access the fill and drain bolts.
So far so good. My next task will probably be to drain and fill the power steering fluid, then when the transmission oil pan gasket arrives I can replace the transmission oil, too.
This car doesn't burn any engine oil, but it does leak a little bit at the valve cover gasket ... so replacing that gasket is another little project I'll be doing soon.
I guesstimate about one and a quarter quarts of old oil removed. It was very dark red-brown to black in color, but at least the differential was still reasonably full, and there is no evidence of leaks or damage to the differential case, so that's a good thing.
There's a little magnet about a quarter inch diameter in the end of the drain plug. It had a tiny little bit of super-small metal particles attached to it which suggest to me that the differential is still in really good shape.
I managed to put 1/2 cup (or maybe a little bit more) ATF into the differential than I drained out. I just stuck the small end of a funnel into a 2 foot piece of clear vinyl hose I had laying around, and that worked great for filling it.
I did not buy or install new aluminum crush washers on either the fill plug or the drain plug, but I cleaned all the surfaces well with brake parts cleaner and I torqued the bolts down tightly enough so nothing is leaking. I will check again for leaks the next time I work on it (which should be in a few days) but I don't expect any leaks since I've always had good luck reusing these types of washers.
BTW, if anyone is interested, the fill bolt is 17mm which I removed from below with a flat ratcheting box-end wrench. But the drain plug requires a 10mm Allen wrench which I did not have, so I made a trip to Harbor Freight and picked up a set of six 3/8 inch drive metric Allen-head sockets on sale for six bucks. The 10mm was the largest in the set and it worked perfectly.
Also note that I removed the front driver side wheel/tire which made it easier for me to crawl under the car and reach around to where I could access the fill and drain bolts.
So far so good. My next task will probably be to drain and fill the power steering fluid, then when the transmission oil pan gasket arrives I can replace the transmission oil, too.
This car doesn't burn any engine oil, but it does leak a little bit at the valve cover gasket ... so replacing that gasket is another little project I'll be doing soon.
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2023
- Messages
- 980
Check the timing chain tensioner, really common leak for that model.
You have a rarity then. I've never heard of one that didn't! I guess If you're posting on this forum you probably take care of it, so that might be the reason.
Good point. I have heard of these avoiding the inevitable oil burning, some somehow managed. If it was mine, 5k at most on an OCI, with synthetic, given the history of these early 1ZZ-FE's, although oil in general is much better, and some portion of the Toyota problem back then was from those who thought all service was optional.
Another tune up item on these cars is the numerous throttle cables and keeping them tight (just a tiny bit of slack.) IIRC the one from the pedal goes to a round thingie, below which another round thingie drives the throttle cable and a third goes down to the transmission.
You'll get quicker downshifts and better pedal response if you have all of these squared away properly. They stretch with use.
You'll get quicker downshifts and better pedal response if you have all of these squared away properly. They stretch with use.
I changed the valve cover gasket and ordered a new timing chain tensioner. I also drained and filled the transmission with the new Castrol Transmax ATF. During my test drive I did not experience any problems with the transmission shifting.
The valve cover gasket was leaking for a long time so I had a big mess to clean off the engine and valve cover, but after installing the new gasket it's not leaking any more.
It's probably still leaking around the O-ring at the time chain tensioner, but I should be able to get that leak stopped when I install the new tensioner next week.
When we bought this car it already had 150,000+ miles on it, and I have no information regarding its maintenance history. However, the fact that it doesn't burn any oil suggest that they probably changed the oil on a regular basis.
I didn't see any sludge when I removed the valve cover gasket, and the cam lobes looked good with no scarring, but there was enough varnish to encourage me to use full synthetic motor oil from now on.
The timing chain wasn't tight, but it wasn't as loose as some of the chains I've seen in some Youtube videos either. It's not loose enough to slap the valve cover yet, but I'm hoping that installing the new tensioner will tighten it up the way it should be.
I installed a new driver side CV axle and output shaft seal. It was a challenge trying to get the old axle to pop out of the transmission, but I eventually got it.
Now the car is up on jackstands waiting for good weather so I can replace the passenger side CV axle.
I will check the adjustment of all those cables too, thanks for mentioning it.
The valve cover gasket was leaking for a long time so I had a big mess to clean off the engine and valve cover, but after installing the new gasket it's not leaking any more.
It's probably still leaking around the O-ring at the time chain tensioner, but I should be able to get that leak stopped when I install the new tensioner next week.
When we bought this car it already had 150,000+ miles on it, and I have no information regarding its maintenance history. However, the fact that it doesn't burn any oil suggest that they probably changed the oil on a regular basis.
I didn't see any sludge when I removed the valve cover gasket, and the cam lobes looked good with no scarring, but there was enough varnish to encourage me to use full synthetic motor oil from now on.
The timing chain wasn't tight, but it wasn't as loose as some of the chains I've seen in some Youtube videos either. It's not loose enough to slap the valve cover yet, but I'm hoping that installing the new tensioner will tighten it up the way it should be.
I installed a new driver side CV axle and output shaft seal. It was a challenge trying to get the old axle to pop out of the transmission, but I eventually got it.
Now the car is up on jackstands waiting for good weather so I can replace the passenger side CV axle.
I will check the adjustment of all those cables too, thanks for mentioning it.
Dexron II, basically anything would work.
I was putting Valvoline Mercon V in it at one point and it works great.
I was putting Valvoline Mercon V in it at one point and it works great.
Pretty impressive to say the least if it's not using any oil. PO must've really taken good care of it. These cars are super easy on everything in true Toyota fashion, otherwise. I'll be selling mine come spring with the motor semi-rebuilt with the "ultimate oil burning fix", and two newish sets of Michelins and Blizzaks. I'm going to miss the not-so-needy maintenance of the car.
Sounds like it's ready for another 200k
The timing chain tensioners don't fail it's the O ring you replace every few years
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2023
- Messages
- 980
hows the shift feel?
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2023
- Messages
- 980
when you installed the chain tensioner back in, how many rotations of the motor did it require for the spring to release?
The hook on the cam chain tensioner released as soon as I turn the engine counterclockwise, but it was a very quiet release.
Then I turned the engine about 1/8 turn clockwise when I heard a much louder rapid clicking sound. I continued to turn the engine over in the same direction for a full turn -- but I only heard one single additional click.
Then I started the engine and noticed that the previous rattle was gone. So apparently the rattle was coming from the cam chain that was looser than it should've been, and now it's "tight enough" so no more rattle.
Then I turned the engine about 1/8 turn clockwise when I heard a much louder rapid clicking sound. I continued to turn the engine over in the same direction for a full turn -- but I only heard one single additional click.
Then I started the engine and noticed that the previous rattle was gone. So apparently the rattle was coming from the cam chain that was looser than it should've been, and now it's "tight enough" so no more rattle.
Similar threads
