dnewton3
Staff member
Knock off the personal jabs and stick to the topic, please.
Ravenol fluids for a `18 4Runner drivetrain (thoughts)
- Thread starter zfasts03
- Start date
As previously stated, I expressed a personal opinion. I don't understand which part of that is confusing to you. In an effort to avoid any misunderstanding, I included the definition of "personal opinion" from vocabulary.com:
Personal Opinion: A personal belief or judgment that is not founded on proof or certainty.
Will HPL sell me 2 qts. or do I need to buy a 6 pack?
Of course they will. But you need to pick up the phone and call them. They will put together whatever you like. Like I said in the post you quoted - call them.
I didn’t realize they had the same transfer case as a 1997 model. Very interesting.
I thought that the transfer case supplier changed from earlier models. The T-case on my Tundra is different than pre-2000 models.
It’s a Borg-Warner unit. My understanding is the changeover to Borg Warner happened about 2014 for the Tundra. Can’t speak to the Tacoma or 4Runner.
Also, I don’t know when Toyota went to a 75W fluid spec on the transfer case, but that’s what my 2016 lists.
Borg Warner patented the Morse type hy-vo chain. The Aisin Seiki VF2A in my TRD ORP is the same Aisin Seiki VF2A that was in my '97 Part-time SR5. They both use a Borg Warner patented Morse type hy-vo chain.
The spec for the Aisin Seiki VF2A in my '97, was for 75w90 gear oil. Since the design of the T-case hasn't changed at all, I could use 75w90 in my TRD ORP.
In this specific application, the Toyota LF 75w gear oil is just to eek out a small reduction in drag due to the lighter viscosity over the old 75w90 spec.
The SR5 uses a Part-Time Aisin Seiki T-case with electric shifting.
The 4Runner Limited has a Full-Time Aisin Seiki T-case.
The Tundra T-case is not the same as the T-cases in the 4Runner.
So, the cases are of different design, and manufacture, but specify the same oil?
If the Aisin Seiki case used to specify 75W90, but now specifies the 75W, I think I would make it simple and run a 75W90.
But since mine never did specify a 75W90, I think I’ll stick with the 75W. I’ve got 4 quarts of HPL 75W on the shelf for the next change (s).
I've used Ravenol quite a bit since I was turned on to them for my Audi.
I have a new SR5 4Runner and plan on using DGL 75w-85 (factory recommended weight) for the front diff as it's not as stressed, nor used as much, as the rear.
For the transfer case it is ok to use 75w-90 and I am currently using VSG as it is both GL5 and GL4 rated. In fact, it has the best ratings possible for both corrosion and foaming, and a pretty high flashpoint of 224 ℃. Will probably use it in the rear next too.
The engine is old-school, port injected and very kind on oils. But I still don't like using anything with a HTHS under 3.0, especially when I spin it up over 4k on long pulls in the mountain passes. So I've been going with HPL No VII 5w-30 PCMO and the engine is running smooth and quieter. I like this particular HPL model since it has a pretty high HTHS (3.4) for its 100 ℃ viscosity rating (10.54). I have yet to run the truck in the winter, but with this oil's relatively low CCS (5,869) and MRV (12,065) I suspect it will do just fine as a superior replacement for a 0w-20. I have not noticed any MPG decrease either.
When it comes time to do a drain/fill on the transmission I might try the HPL ATF Green CC. I have a soft spot for PAO...
Been using synthetics exclusively since 1996 and don't mind paying for the best fluids in my vehicles, even if it may not make much of a difference in the end with this application...
I have a new SR5 4Runner and plan on using DGL 75w-85 (factory recommended weight) for the front diff as it's not as stressed, nor used as much, as the rear.
For the transfer case it is ok to use 75w-90 and I am currently using VSG as it is both GL5 and GL4 rated. In fact, it has the best ratings possible for both corrosion and foaming, and a pretty high flashpoint of 224 ℃. Will probably use it in the rear next too.
The engine is old-school, port injected and very kind on oils. But I still don't like using anything with a HTHS under 3.0, especially when I spin it up over 4k on long pulls in the mountain passes. So I've been going with HPL No VII 5w-30 PCMO and the engine is running smooth and quieter. I like this particular HPL model since it has a pretty high HTHS (3.4) for its 100 ℃ viscosity rating (10.54). I have yet to run the truck in the winter, but with this oil's relatively low CCS (5,869) and MRV (12,065) I suspect it will do just fine as a superior replacement for a 0w-20. I have not noticed any MPG decrease either.
When it comes time to do a drain/fill on the transmission I might try the HPL ATF Green CC. I have a soft spot for PAO...
Been using synthetics exclusively since 1996 and don't mind paying for the best fluids in my vehicles, even if it may not make much of a difference in the end with this application...
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I am wondering about HPL ATF Green CC in the transmission as well, as far as how it effects shift quality.
My money is on it will shift crisp, quick and firm. How I like it. But what bother me the most from my understanding is that the fluid is actually green.
My money is on it will shift crisp, quick and firm. How I like it. But what bother me the most from my understanding is that the fluid is actually green.
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Well, we know Toyota is slow to make changes especially if something works. Tried and true, if it ain't broke...
Ironically, Toyota just said the 5th gen will continue into 2024. Lol.
I expected at least what Jeep did with the JK to JL transition. Can’t remember the year (2018?), but they had both gens the same year.
It is actually green.
The HPL blue ATF is actually blue.
They work well, so why does color matter?
I’ve used Amsoil for years in both of my Tacoma’s. 2002 4x4 and 15 Tacoma Prerunner. Severe Gear 75W90 in both and SS blue cap ATF in both as well.
I was very impressed today when changing the transfer case with Ravenol 75w. I did NOT know they had a hose integrated inside the bottle to make things VERY easy.
Also did the front diff (Valvoline bags 75w-90) and the ATF (Toyota WS). All I have left is the prop shaft with Valvoline red NLGI #2 and to put the cumbersome RCI Metalworx plates back on from front to back.
Also did the front diff (Valvoline bags 75w-90) and the ATF (Toyota WS). All I have left is the prop shaft with Valvoline red NLGI #2 and to put the cumbersome RCI Metalworx plates back on from front to back.
