Any Reason TO NOT USE A 0W-XX oil?????

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Just re-reading the Motor Oil tutorial ( aka Motor Oil University) on the main pages and it sounds like in every case a 0W-XX oil will always benefit an engine more than ANY 5W-XX oil or 10W-XX oil, as the 0W-XX oil is ALWAYS thinner at start up ,and therefore will get up to operating temps faster.

The oil lubricates better at operating temps. AND if it is thinner at room temp ( sop to speak) it will cause less wear and tear on the starter and battery .

Right?
 
For me and the vehicles I drive I see no reason to run a 0w-x oil.

If I can get 200k, 300k and more with normal oils (and a lot of those miles were on yesterdays oils which stink compaired to today's SL/SM/SN oils IMO) why spend the $$ for the 0w-x oils?

For ME I'll run what works and be happy. I've spent way too many miles blasting across 100+ degree and well below zero temps in quite a few rigs. And the engine was NOT what took them off the road.

They ran fine to the "end".

Take care, Bill
 
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Just re-reading the Motor Oil tutorial ( aka Motor Oil University) on the main pages and it sounds like in every case a 0W-XX oil will always benefit an engine more than ANY 5W-XX oil or 10W-XX oil, as the 0W-XX oil is ALWAYS thinner at start up ,and therefore will get up to operating temps faster.

The oil lubricates better at operating temps. AND if it is thinner at room temp ( sop to speak) it will cause less wear and tear on the starter and battery .

Right?


There are two instances now to use a 0W oil. 1) if your engine is under warranty and the manufacturer does not call for a 0W oil. 2) if you are in an area that is very hot (Texas, Arizona, Florida, etc.) a thicker oil might help with heat dissipation better until the oil is hot, and even when it is 0W30 probably won't dissipate heat as well as a 10w30.
 
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Just re-reading the Motor Oil tutorial ( aka Motor Oil University) on the main pages and it sounds like in every case a 0W-XX oil will always benefit an engine more than ANY 5W-XX oil or 10W-XX oil, as the 0W-XX oil is ALWAYS thinner at start up ,and therefore will get up to operating temps faster.

The oil lubricates better at operating temps. AND if it is thinner at room temp ( sop to speak) it will cause less wear and tear on the starter and battery .

Right?


There are two instances now to use a 0W oil. 1) if your engine is under warranty and the manufacturer does not call for a 0W oil. 2) if you are in an area that is very hot (Texas, Arizona, Florida, etc.) a thicker oil might help with heat dissipation better until the oil is hot, and even when it is 0W30 probably won't dissipate heat as well as a 10w30.



but at operating temps they all have the same viscosity


and

according to the motor oil university thinner oils cool better than thicker oils


it seems a lot of what people post here is contary to what is speeld out on the main page in MOTOR OIL UNIVERSITY, why is that?

0W-xx oils seem to cost the same where I shop


other than warranty I can see no reason TO NOT run a 0W-xx oil


anybody else got a good reason to not use one?
 
Any Reason to not use a 0W-XX oil ? Cost.

You can buy conventional 5W-xx and 10W-xx but most likely 0W-xx is available in synthetic only. If you plan to do 6-7k miles OCI, then conventional is more than adequate for most engines with normal driving conditions. If you are planning to use syn only, then 0W-xx is a better choice.
 
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Just re-reading the Motor Oil tutorial ( aka Motor Oil University) on the main pages and it sounds like in every case a 0W-XX oil will always benefit an engine more than ANY 5W-XX oil or 10W-XX oil, as the 0W-XX oil is ALWAYS thinner at start up ,and therefore will get up to operating temps faster.

The oil lubricates better at operating temps. AND if it is thinner at room temp ( sop to speak) it will cause less wear and tear on the starter and battery .

Right?


I've been wondering about this myself. Reading the PDS's on the Mobil 1 site, it looks like the numbers for the 40 C viscosity and 100 C viscosity are similar for the 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30. Those are fairly hot temperatures, and I'm more concerned about pumpability at temperatures from about 40 F to 70 F. These are typical ambient temps here in SoCal when I'm starting my vehicles. Does 0w-30 really lubricate my engine significantly faster in a "cold" start situation at 60 F than 10w-30? The reason I ask is that the Mobil 1 10w-30 will have considerably less VII's than 0w-30, and I'm assuming that this means it would be more shear-stable. Or maybe I don't need to worry that much about shear-stability, I don't know.
 
Originally Posted By: Stelth
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Just re-reading the Motor Oil tutorial ( aka Motor Oil University) on the main pages and it sounds like in every case a 0W-XX oil will always benefit an engine more than ANY 5W-XX oil or 10W-XX oil, as the 0W-XX oil is ALWAYS thinner at start up ,and therefore will get up to operating temps faster.

The oil lubricates better at operating temps. AND if it is thinner at room temp ( sop to speak) it will cause less wear and tear on the starter and battery .

Right?


I've been wondering about this myself. Reading the PDS's on the Mobil 1 site, it looks like the numbers for the 40 C viscosity and 100 C viscosity are similar for the 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30. Those are fairly hot temperatures, and I'm more concerned about pumpability at temperatures from about 40 F to 70 F. These are typical ambient temps here in SoCal when I'm starting my vehicles. Does 0w-30 really lubricate my engine significantly faster in a "cold" start situation at 60 F than 10w-30? The reason I ask is that the Mobil 1 10w-30 will have considerably less VII's than 0w-30, and I'm assuming that this means it would be more shear-stable. Or maybe I don't need to worry that much about shear-stability, I don't know.


At those warm temps [40F to 70F] it won't really make any meaningful difference.
 
Almost all the above posts make no sense. Look people it doesn't matter if it is below zero or 100 f when you start your " cold " engine, what matters is what oil will lube that "cold" engine the quickest. A 0w oil will lube your engine the quickest in all conditions therefore it will "always" protect your engine quicker than a non 0w oil. Case closed.
 
Originally Posted By: dlafoy
Almost all the above posts make no sense. Look people it doesn't matter if it is below zero or 100 f when you start your " cold " engine, what matters is what oil will lube that "cold" engine the quickest. A 0w oil will lube your engine the quickest in all conditions therefore it will "always" protect your engine quicker than a non 0w oil. Case closed.


Sounds like you read Motor Oil University too....

That is either not read or ignored in these forums. Everybody advises the opposite of science and objectivity here.

Like go up a weight in summer.... Makes no sense at all.

THINNER OIL COOLS AND PROTECTS THE ENGINE BETTER. At least that is the science stated in Motor Oil Universiy , but many cling to tradition and superstition and old wives tales.

What number is on the MSDS for each oil that compares room temperature viscosity. That is the number that needs to be looked at. Because at operating temps they all have the same viscosity.
 
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Originally Posted By: dlafoy
Almost all the above posts make no sense. Look people it doesn't matter if it is below zero or 100 f when you start your " cold " engine, what matters is what oil will lube that "cold" engine the quickest. A 0w oil will lube your engine the quickest in all conditions therefore it will "always" protect your engine quicker than a non 0w oil. Case closed.


Sounds like you read Motor Oil University too....

That is either not read or ignored in these forums. Everybody advises the opposite of science and objectivity here.

Like go up a weight in summer.... Makes no sense at all.

THINNER OIL COOLS AND PROTECTS THE ENGINE BETTER. At least that is the science stated in Motor Oil Universiy , but many cling to tradition and superstition and old wives tales.

What number is on the MSDS for each oil that compares room temperature viscosity. That is the number that needs to be looked at. Because at operating temps they all have the same viscosity.



By golly I think u get it. Just a little common sense is all it takes
 
Originally Posted By: dlafoy
Almost all the above posts make no sense. Look people it doesn't matter if it is below zero or 100 f when you start your " cold " engine, what matters is what oil will lube that "cold" engine the quickest. A 0w oil will lube your engine the quickest in all conditions therefore it will "always" protect your engine quicker than a non 0w oil. Case closed.


So where are all the engines that are being damaged from running a non 0w-x oil? (like MOST of the engines out there)

Since its "case closed" there must be millions of damaged engines not making very many miles.
 
Nobody said there were millions of damaged engines. That's not the point of the thread at all , the point is that 0w-xx oils protect BETTER so there is no reason not to use them.

The only valid reasons so far are : warranty and cost ( vs. conventional because the synthetics are all about the same).

You sound defensive , I guess when Columbus told the old timers the world was round they got defensive too.


Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: dlafoy
Almost all the above posts make no sense. Look people it doesn't matter if it is below zero or 100 f when you start your " cold " engine, what matters is what oil will lube that "cold" engine the quickest. A 0w oil will lube your engine the quickest in all conditions therefore it will "always" protect your engine quicker than a non 0w oil. Case closed.


So where are all the engines that are being damaged from running a non 0w-x oil? (like MOST of the engines out there)

Since its "case closed" there must be millions of damaged engines not making very many miles.
 
Most have commented on the success of 5W, 10W, etc. oils. Which is obvious. The question is" any reason not to use 0W oils". For most engines, no. Some of the most expensive engines in the world call for 0W oils. I recently switched to M1 0-20 from 5-20EP for a trial run. So far, great! The 5-20EP was very good as is the 0-20. I do seem to be gaining a 2-3% gain in MPG with the 0-20. Even if you gain 5 miles per tank of gas with 0W oils, that will pay for the price of the oil over the life of the oil change.
Others worried about the warranty. My Fords call for a wssm2c925-a or30-a spec. The M1 0-20 meets that warranty spec as others like PP will do.
 
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Nobody said there were millions of damaged engines. That's not the point of the thread at all , the point is that 0w-xx oils protect BETTER so there is no reason not to use them.

The only valid reasons so far are : warranty and cost ( vs. conventional because the synthetics are all about the same).

You sound defensive , I guess when Columbus told the old timers the world was round they got defensive too.



I did not insult you so I'd appreciate that you do the same.

Again, PLEASE show me where the "BETTER" protection comes into play? Engines have been protected just fine for decades without the 0 weight oils.

Bill
 
I'm kinda new at all this, but in a bout between 10w30 vs 0w30, if shear stability were something of utmost importance to a particular engine in a specific oci goal , than in theory wouldn't the 10w30 be the winner?
 
Originally Posted By: 660mag
I'm kinda new at all this, but in a bout between 10w30 vs 0w30, if shear stability were something of utmost importance to a particular engine in a specific oci goal , than in theory wouldn't the 10w30 be the winner?


Shear stability? That sounds like a valid good question. Not sure it was covered in Motor Oil University, anybody know?
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Nobody said there were millions of damaged engines. That's not the point of the thread at all , the point is that 0w-xx oils protect BETTER so there is no reason not to use them.

The only valid reasons so far are : warranty and cost ( vs. conventional because the synthetics are all about the same).

You sound defensive , I guess when Columbus told the old timers the world was round they got defensive too.



I did not insult you so I'd appreciate that you do the same.

Again, PLEASE show me where the "BETTER" protection comes into play? Engines have been protected just fine for decades without the 0 weight oils.

Bill


When one particular oil(0w) is able to flow quicker upon startup than another particular oil( 10w) and as a result of this quicker flow your engine's internals receive the protection of oil sooner than another oil could give it, hence the term "BeTTeR" .
 
Bill not sure where you were insulted.

The better protection , as stated in Moyor Oil University on this site, is that the ow-xx oils are more viscous at room temps, which allows them to get to work faster.


Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Nobody said there were millions of damaged engines. That's not the point of the thread at all , the point is that 0w-xx oils protect BETTER so there is no reason not to use them.


Decades ago 0w oils were not readily available so stop bringing that up -- it has nothing to do with this thread or the original question


The only valid reasons so far are : warranty and cost ( vs. conventional because the synthetics are all about the same).

You sound defensive , I guess when Columbus told the old timers the world was round they got defensive too.



I did not insult you so I'd appreciate that you do the same.

Again, PLEASE show me where the "BETTER" protection comes into play? Engines have been protected just fine for decades without the 0 weight oils.

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: RegDunlop
Originally Posted By: 660mag
I'm kinda new at all this, but in a bout between 10w30 vs 0w30, if shear stability were something of utmost importance to a particular engine in a specific oci goal , than in theory wouldn't the 10w30 be the winner?


Shear stability? That sounds like a valid good question. Not sure it was covered in Motor Oil University, anybody know?


When looking at UOA section there will be many examples of oil shearing out of grade and almost none of these examples will show unusually high wear numbers.
 
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