You weren't the only one. At a annual experimental airshow, fly -in in Arlington WA a few years ago, they provided pump premix for the twostroke guys. Someone got talked into mixing it up with amsoil 100:1. By the end of the weekend many engines had seized which was directly traced back to the oil coming out of mix in the premix tank. This created a big scare and (right or wrong) to this day many guys won't use synthetic or amsoil in their two stroke airplanes. Shortly after this incident amsoil added "miscibility" to their ad verbage, not sure the oil changed, but they most likely wanted to dampen any concerns.
Amsoil Saber Outboard 2 Stroke Oil Questions
- Thread starter LargeCarManX2
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You weren't the only one. At a annual experimental airshow, fly -in in Arlington WA a few years ago, they provided pump premix for the twostroke guys. Someone got talked into mixing it up with amsoil 100:1. By the end of the weekend many engines had seized which was directly traced back to the oil coming out of mix in the premix tank. This created a big scare and (right or wrong) to this day many guys won't use synthetic or amsoil in their two stroke airplanes. Shortly after this incident amsoil added "miscibility" to their ad verbage, not sure the oil changed, but they most likely wanted to dampen any concerns.
If someone doesn't physically mix their "premix" who's fault is that? The potshots at Amsoil are constant with some of you guys. Amsoil mixes as easy as any other 2-stroke oil and Amsoil, like other companies give specific mixing instructions.
That might be true for the 50:1 Amsoil, which I also tried and had no problems mixing with gas. But my original statment was about the 100:1 oil.
All 50:1 oil I have tried (even Alsoil 50:1) mixed up with just the turbulence from the gas pump nozzle going into the fuel tank or gas jug.
I am not making claims about the ability of Amsoils 100:1 oil to protect the motor when mixed properly. I am only claiming that in the year 2000 when I tried thier 100:1 oil, it would not mix completly, which could effect the life of the motor.
Why do so many Amsoil dealers get bent out of shape when someone has tried the product and doesn't like it.
And if you think I'm an Amsoil basher, I am not. I have their 75W-90 Severe gear lube in my 4x4 and think it's one of the best gear lubes on the market. I recomend it's use to other truck owners.
I didn't think you in particular were bad mouthing the product. If the old 100:1 didn't fit your usage, I have no problem with that, your expectation for mixing doesn't fit the product mix instructions, so be it. I don't get bent out of shape if someone doesn't like a product, I do however defend the products from particular claims from people who seem to have an axe to grind. If the airport example happened, some evidence would be nice. Even 50:1 should be well mixed. Properly mixing the oil is important - if someone doesn't follow this advice, then they are on their own.
I looked at the Amsiol website for "mixing" instructions for the 100:1 oil, but couldn't find any.
What is the proper way to mix 100:1 Amsoil?
I didn't mean to imply there is any special mixing instructions for Saber at 100:1.
The think the best way to mix any 2-stroke oil is to mix well the desired amount oil with some smaller quantity of gasoline (approx. 1:3 or 1:4, 1:5 etc) first then add to/add fuel up to the desired ratio and mix again. I'm sure someone has a fancier method but this works great for me and others.
The think the best way to mix any 2-stroke oil is to mix well the desired amount oil with some smaller quantity of gasoline (approx. 1:3 or 1:4, 1:5 etc) first then add to/add fuel up to the desired ratio and mix again. I'm sure someone has a fancier method but this works great for me and others.
Amsoil 100:1 product used to be miscibility rated a 2. Their 50:1 products were a 4. (4 being better as far as mixing and staying in solution). I say "used to be rated" because it doesn't look like they list it anymore.
IMHO, The 100:1 would be fine shaken in a can before each fill . In a large storage tank or fuel tank that can't be shaken each time I'd stay with amsoil 50:1 products. There is a reason the 50:1 products use solvents and blend the oil in steps using high shear, to make it mix better at low temps, mix complete, and resist separating out.
IMHO, The 100:1 would be fine shaken in a can before each fill . In a large storage tank or fuel tank that can't be shaken each time I'd stay with amsoil 50:1 products. There is a reason the 50:1 products use solvents and blend the oil in steps using high shear, to make it mix better at low temps, mix complete, and resist separating out.
Yes I have seen info from Amsoil on the 100:1 not having any solvents in it. This might have been 8 yrs ago.
RE: Amsoil injector oil. My brother in Alaska called me one day several years ago. He had a problem fouling plugs every outing with his V-4 Johnson outboard: he was using factory oil. Knowing there was an Amsoil in his hometown (Palmer) I set him up with my account to purchase the HP injector oil to try. Plug fouling is a thing of the past and he was so impressed he used the same oil in his snow machines (3 of them). Previously he had to rebuild the carbs on each of them to get them to start each winter, with the amsoil in them now, he reports that for the past several years he has not rebuilt a single carb and that they start up after only a couple pulls after sitting all summer long. Again, being impressed he now uses Amsoil exclusively in everything he owns.
I used Amsoil for 14 years, from 1995 till 2009. It is a remarkable product that saves downtime from monthly oil changes for high-mileage drivers like myself. The last 2 years, Amsoil DID NOT provide good service to me. 2007: I had the Series 0W30 35,000 mi. oil in for 6 months (about 20,000 miles). I took the cap off the oil fill tube to add about 4 oz. and it was FULL of a light brown sludge. It looked like someone had stuffed a spongue in the tube. I called my distributor, and he recommended I change to the 5W30 25,000 mil oil, after an Amsoil flush. I did that, and was ok until I had about 14,000 miles on it 5 mos. later. I opened it to add a few oz. and the inside of the tube was covered with sludge all the way around it and top to bottom, and the oil filler cap had about a 1/2" of sludge attached underneath it. I called Toyota (not the dealer, a technical rep) and he said that NO OIL can be used beyond 5,000 miles in ANY Toyota due to oil gelling. I was a believer, but it is not feasible for me to spend $650 a year for Amsoil oil changes every 5,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: spacemark
I used Amsoil for 14 years, from 1995 till 2009. It is a remarkable product that saves downtime from monthly oil changes for high-mileage drivers like myself. The last 2 years, Amsoil DID NOT provide good service to me. 2007: I had the Series 0W30 35,000 mi. oil in for 6 months (about 20,000 miles). I took the cap off the oil fill tube to add about 4 oz. and it was FULL of a light brown sludge. It looked like someone had stuffed a spongue in the tube. I called my distributor, and he recommended I change to the 5W30 25,000 mil oil, after an Amsoil flush. I did that, and was ok until I had about 14,000 miles on it 5 mos. later. I opened it to add a few oz. and the inside of the tube was covered with sludge all the way around it and top to bottom, and the oil filler cap had about a 1/2" of sludge attached underneath it. I called Toyota (not the dealer, a technical rep) and he said that NO OIL can be used beyond 5,000 miles in ANY Toyota due to oil gelling. I was a believer, but it is not feasible for me to spend $650 a year for Amsoil oil changes every 5,000 miles.
This is a problem with the Toyota sludge engines not the product used in them. Any oil would have done this. One must be knowledgeable with their equipment.
I used Amsoil for 14 years, from 1995 till 2009. It is a remarkable product that saves downtime from monthly oil changes for high-mileage drivers like myself. The last 2 years, Amsoil DID NOT provide good service to me. 2007: I had the Series 0W30 35,000 mi. oil in for 6 months (about 20,000 miles). I took the cap off the oil fill tube to add about 4 oz. and it was FULL of a light brown sludge. It looked like someone had stuffed a spongue in the tube. I called my distributor, and he recommended I change to the 5W30 25,000 mil oil, after an Amsoil flush. I did that, and was ok until I had about 14,000 miles on it 5 mos. later. I opened it to add a few oz. and the inside of the tube was covered with sludge all the way around it and top to bottom, and the oil filler cap had about a 1/2" of sludge attached underneath it. I called Toyota (not the dealer, a technical rep) and he said that NO OIL can be used beyond 5,000 miles in ANY Toyota due to oil gelling. I was a believer, but it is not feasible for me to spend $650 a year for Amsoil oil changes every 5,000 miles.
This is a problem with the Toyota sludge engines not the product used in them. Any oil would have done this. One must be knowledgeable with their equipment.
Your Toyota sludge engine is the problem not Amsoil. Also what does this have to do with Saber 2 stroke oil?
I have used the Amsoil Saber Synthetic at 100:1 in my 1988 Johnson 9.9 HP motor and it runs a lot smoother at slower trolling speeds, I troll between 1.7 MPH and 3 MPH.
When I started using this my outboard mechanic told me that this is the ONLY oil to use at 100:1 as my motor is rated at 50:1.
So far I have had no problems and I like it, I go out maybe 40 times a year for maybe 5-7 hours at a time, give or take a couple hours.
When I started using this my outboard mechanic told me that this is the ONLY oil to use at 100:1 as my motor is rated at 50:1.
So far I have had no problems and I like it, I go out maybe 40 times a year for maybe 5-7 hours at a time, give or take a couple hours.
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