6 point 1-1/16" Socket from Where?

[SuperDave456]

So, I am planning on changing out the anode in my hot water heater. It is a standardized 1-1/16" hex bolt, and I have checked mine with a 12 point socket.

However, I would like to get a 6 point socket in the 1-1/16" size.

Who do yall recommend?

 

[Roadkingnc]

northern tool

 

[MI_Roger]

You are planning to throw the old anode away aren't you? Why not use a pipe wrench? Your 12-point will likely be fine for installng the new anode.

 

[Chris142]

I've got a nice Matco 6 point 1 1/16 impact socket. I think I paid about $35 for it

 

[Trav]

Socket

 

[cassidy]

napa

 

[SuperDave456]

Went by Advanced Auto and Auto Zone didn't make it by Northern.

Of the two Advanced didn't have the 6 point socket. Auto Zone did, for 7 bucks. I also decided to pick up a 18" breaker bar for 1/2" sockets.

I have a Craftsman Breaker, but not for 1/2" sockets. I figure since AutoZone is closer it would be easier to return the $12 breaker if it was heat treated wrong and shatters on me.

I still need an anode. Will be shopping for one over the next few days. Might go by the local professional plumbing store and check out their prices. Might just order online.

Will keep you guys informed.

 

[chevys10]

Changed out my anode last year in a 9 year old water heater...it was completely gone except for the center wire. The craftsman all 6 point set that I have had the right socket in it. I just put a pipe over the ratchet and the anode came right out...cheaper than a breaker bar. Got the anode locally at a plumbing supply house. Next time will probably order it online.

Not a big fan of craftsman since they are getting stuff made in china now, but I guarantee they will have the socket you need.

 

[SuperDave456]

I got a breaker bar as my 1/2" ratchet was my Grandfather's. If I break the breaker bar no loss.

Just don't want to force the 40+ year old ratchet... want to have options.

As far as anodes go I'm thinking about ordering one of these off of Amazon. It seem that Magnesium is the way to go, works better than Aluminum as an anode.

Blue Lightning Magnesium Flexible Anode Rods, Nipple Fitting, 42"

 

[benjamming]

why not use a wrench? My combination wrench set has a 1-1/16" included.

 

[SuperDave456]

Due to insulation and it being kind of down in a "well", for lack of a better description, I need a socket. Due to limited overhead space I need it to be a shorter socket, not a deep impact socket. I plan on punching a hole in the drywall to get the old one out.

Here this might help explain what I am doing. Kind of a neat video.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047047,00.html

And another neat one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97ett_HNu4k

 

[Kestas]

I had a plumber show me a trick in removing (and installing) a solid anode with low overhead. He takes the rod and bends it just enough to get the clearance he needs. Same with the new rod. It's not a 90° bend, but just enough so he can twist it in or out without any interference inside the tank.

 

[bigmike]

I can put all the torque in the world on an anode rod, but unless the water heater doesn't spin around, it does no good. That's what I've run into. I'm not even sure someone could hold it in place.

 

[SuperDave456]

It is in a closet on a stand in the garage. I have like 18" above the heater before the flu goes through drywall at the top of the closet.
I'm just planning on going up through the drywall. It should come out in the attic not too far from where the attic ladder is, so that will make life easier.

I'm hoping that the weight of the 50 gallons of water will hold it down when I am trying to break the nut free.
I've been researching this for a couple weeks, as my Father's water heater went out a few weeks ago, and I have seen no other way to do it. No way to hold a heater, especially a heater in a small closet.

I just hope my 6 sided 1-1/16" socket, my 18" breaker bar, and the 4' of pipe I have is enough to break it free without damaging anything or rounding anything off. I haven't read any horror stories online about shattering a tank or the anode coming out with the threads. I just plan on taking my time and attempting to go slow.

 

[benjamming]

Why not use an impact to eliminate the need for breaker bar, cheater pipe, etc.?

 

[SuperDave456]

Cause my little 1/2 Horse power 3 gallon Air Compressor won't work a 1/2" drive impact driver (I least I don't think so), and I don't have a Impact Driver.

Last time I shopped around the electric ones were around $50, but that is for the ones that have questionable quality and lifespans.

Your recommendations are welcome though if you have one you'd prefer.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Cause my little 1/2 Horse power 3 gallon Air Compressor won't work a 1/2" drive impact driver (I least I don't think so), and I don't have a Impact Driver.


It will run an impact gun in short bursts. You'll need to give it time to recover between, but it will work. You could also gang on a second tank to give yourself more storage capacity, meaning longer bursts with the impact gun. It will take longer to refill the larger tank capacity, of course.

I've used a non-impact socket with an impact gun in a pinch. The gun doesn't care what socket is attached to it.

 

[SuperDave456]

Cool. Good to know.

Time to start shopping for an inexpensive impact gun!

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Cool. Good to know.

Time to start shopping for an inexpensive impact gun!


The cheap ones are trash. I have a CH from walmart that claims 270 ft lbs but in reality it delivers under 100 or at least won't break away a lug nut torqued to 100.

The HF "earthquake" gets good reviews and is on sale for $89 a lot of the time.

If you're going to put chrome sockets on an impact, at least wear your goggles-- they have a greater chance of shattering.