5w30 vs 10w30 synthetic

[veryHeavy]

Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Do you think there is much difference between a synthetic 5w30 vs 10w30


10W30 has fewer VIMs (sometimes none) so it less likely to degrade over time. I run 10W30 in my California cars, because the temp never goes below 30.

10W30 has +10F higher flash point. And lower NOACK 6.3% (versus 10% for 5W). And for some oils, like Amsoil Signature Series, the 10W-30 is cheaper (12.15 versus 11.70) because it has fewer VIMs.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: SR5

If you want a bit more HTHS, have you considered M1 10W30 HM, with HTHS = 3.5 cP
M1 5W30 HM = 3.3 HTHS
Regular M1 5W30 = 3.1 HTHS
Regular M1 10W30 = 3.0 HTHS.

The M1 HM oils, are performance oils in disguise.

M1 10w40 HM in particular.


Yeah !!! M1 10W-40 HTHS = 3.9 cP. Very nice.

Even better when the old stuff was API SL with high Zinc. I hear the HM 30 grades are now SN with regular zinc levels. Not sure about the 10W-40 as it's a non-ILSAC grade with no zinc limit.

Either way, great performance full synthetic oils.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Although Mobil typically is not really generous with the info on their websites, but it is interesting that the HTHS for the 10W30 is lower than the 5W30...

If you want a bit more HTHS, have you considered M1 10W30 HM, with HTHS = 3.5 cP
M1 5W30 HM = 3.3 HTHS
Regular M1 5W30 = 3.1 HTHS
Regular M1 10W30 = 3.0 HTHS.

The M1 HM oils, are performance oils in disguise.


My memory is that the M1 HM oils were high SAPS and I wasn't too crazy about that.
As you mentioned later, I think that may have changed with the SN blend and I'm not too sure what's going on with that HM line now.
I like to know a minimum of NOACK and calcium dosage before I commit to any oil and there are times where I just cannot find them. I want low calcium due to LSPI concerns and that has tended to push me to M1...some folks say LSPI is not worth worrying so much about, but my FXT was recalled for it and I am worried!! CCS is a must for a winter oil and I wish I could find MRV for more oils...

 

[Whimsey]

Originally Posted By: SR5
If you want a bit more HTHS, have you considered M1 10W30 HM, with HTHS = 3.5 cP
The M1 HM oils, are performance oils in disguise.


This is what I'm now running in my 1996 Ford Contour 2.0L Zetec with the 5 speed manual tranny. The engine loves to run at high rpms. I do however park the car in my garage for the dead of winter. No salt no rot.

Whimsey

 

[vitez]

Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: CT8
All things equal the 5W will be better choice at extreme low temperatures


I agree.
The thing is some BITOGers consider anything below freezing (32*F) to be extreme....while others consider 0*F not to be 'extreme low'. I would think a synthetic 10w30 would work well down to about 15* to 20*F....below that I'd want the 5w30.


Yesterday, 2008 Escalade 6.2L LS3, it's -30°C, vehicle is outside, block heater plugged in, battery is 2 days old (new): crank, crank, crank, pause, say a few choice words, crank, crank, fire! Rough running and belt squealing for 5-10 seconds but steadily smoothed out until normal. I let it warm up for a few minutes then drove off slowly.

I was expecting better extreme cold weather starting than this. I check the block heater later that day: it's burned out!! Arrrrgh.

But in any case it did start while stone cold at -30°C, so I can't complain too much.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: vitez
Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: CT8
All things equal the 5W will be better choice at extreme low temperatures


I agree.
The thing is some BITOGers consider anything below freezing (32*F) to be extreme....while others consider 0*F not to be 'extreme low'. I would think a synthetic 10w30 would work well down to about 15* to 20*F....below that I'd want the 5w30.


Yesterday, 2008 Escalade 6.2L LS3, it's -30°C, vehicle is outside, block heater plugged in, battery is 2 days old (new): crank, crank, crank, pause, say a few choice words, crank, crank, fire! Rough running and belt squealing for 5-10 seconds but steadily smoothed out until normal. I let it warm up for a few minutes then drove off slowly.

I was expecting better extreme cold weather starting than this. I check the block heater later that day: it's burned out!! Arrrrgh.

But in any case it did start while stone cold at -30°C, so I can't complain too much.


Good story.

Which oil were you using?

 

[BrocLuno]

If I was expecting 0*F much it would be 5W. And if I was expecting "-" Temps, it would be 0W. I like a 30 at op temp for most engines. A 40 for diesel and truck engines.

 

[veryHeavy]

Originally Posted By: vitez
Yesterday, 2008 Escalade 6.2L LS3, it's -30°C, vehicle is outside, block heater plugged in, battery is 2 days old (new): crank, crank, crank, pause, say a few choice words, crank, crank, fire! Rough running and belt squealing for 5-10 seconds but steadily smoothed out until normal.

What oil is in there?

I figure in freezing weather, you don't want molasses in your engine. Therefore thinner is better. 0W-xx is the way to go when overnight temps go below freezing. (Some car makers recommend 0W-xx year round!)

 

[vitez]

Sorry gents, I thought I wrote what oil I was using. It's Mobi 1 5W-30. I was using Amsoil SS 0W-30 since I bought the Escalade used 5 years ago but I got a good sale on M1 at Canadian Tire over the summer so I switched. M1 was FF AFAIR for the LS3 engine anyway.

Curiously, I do find M1 noisier than Amsoil SS, and SS did start a better in the extreme cold but that's to be expected with a 0W oil. With a functioning block heater the 5W-30 should be fine. Now if only I could park inside the garage........

 

[Barwich]

I just changed the oil in the RAV4 from max life semi blend to synpower 5w30 last week. Life is now much easier with -20c's. Have no problem with -30c without plugging in block heater.