5W-20 vs. 5W-30 vs 10W-30

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FarraFan!
quote:

If you were talking to me toocrazy2yoo then not exactly. We've been using America's Choice recycled/rerefined 5W30 for a long long time in our CVPI's.Right now we're using ProTec brand filters. OCI is 5K.

Yeah, I was talkin to yoo! I figured you weren't a J-L worker!
lol.gif

How many miles do they pile up on those cars of yours before they roll em out of your fleet? Curious, do they keep "beater" cars around for huge numbers of miles for "light duty" like transporting miscreants, etc? Or are they all considered front-line vehicles and buy/sell/maintain them all the same? I notice in a lot of the New England towns where I visit in Massachusetts where they don't do a lot of high-speed/interstate patrolling (not their jurisdiction, really), they put a lot of miles on them, 200K and climbing. The sheet metal and all is, I dunno, ok, but you can hear the suspensions rattling going down the road and the interiors are kinda beat in them, too.

My cousin has a friend who's town police officer with a landscaping company that does her lawn, and he checks in on her property while out of town, stops in to yakk on slow days, which is how I happened to here it. He says it's all routine keeping those cars in service with all those miles. He's not aware of what they put in them oil-wise, but they have to go to the townie's maintenance garage every 60 days in any case.

Speaking of Jiffy Lube, Massachusetts State Police, at least on the North Shore of the Boston area use..JIFFY LUBE!!!

Go figure.

[ May 23, 2006, 08:32 AM: Message edited by: toocrazy2yoo ]
 
It's a job's program for the rabble. Besides that, if you thieve from the police/government in NuWingland (Maine excluded) ..you will get TWO WEEKS ..no ifs ..no ands ..no buts ...TWO WEEKS (but only if you're armed).
 
Toocrazy they replace our cars at about 125,000 or so depending on how they're running at the time. Our cars are assigned to us individually and can be used off duty for personal stuff.Having the car assigned to you is a little bit of an incentive to keep the maintenance up to date and it's a little easier on the cars only being used 1 shift at a time and not 24 hours straight like some depts. do. Each post keeps 3 or 4 pool cars to be used when your car is in for service or is down for some reason.My current car is an 04 with 62K.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Buford T. Justice:
My car, a 1998 Ford Mustang GT, has the 4.6L engine that is qualified to run 5W-20 according to Ford. But would I want to? I don't know. It would seem to me the engine would make more noises and oil would start burning.

Ford designed the engine to run on 5w30. Later, the penny pinchers started recommending 5w20 so they could up the gas mileage for CAFE. If you want to run what your engine was designed for, run 5w30.

quote:

Originally posted by Rodbuckler:
You should try it. It really woke up the 4.6L in my 1996 GT. Previous owners used 30 weight dino in my engine, so rings were coked up and I think ring/bore wear was much higher than necessary (1qt/500mi consumption at first).

My best oil so far (among many tried) is Motorcraft 5W-20 spiked with Delo 400 SAE30 (1qt/2500mi consumption). Next best is Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20/5W-30 mix, but the oil consumption is higher (1qt/1000mi). WOT is the norm, so judge the oil consumption on that basis.


My 96 uses less than 0.25 quarts every 3000 miles, and it's gotten nothing but 5w30. I've seen blocks with 200K+ miles on them with the factory crosshatching still intact. Again, 5w30.
 
There is no way I would run straight 5W-30 in my '96 4.6L ever again. The engine runs much better under all operating conditions with the oil in the 5W-20 range.

I know my bores or rings are damaged because the Cheveron 10W-30 used by the previous owners wasn't getting the job done (I95 commuter car). Nevertheless, my engine has well over 200K on it and it runs like new on 5W-20. Also, the Lucas UCL must have cleaned up one heck of a mess in the fuel system.
 
As far as the gauge readings- Ford gauges are non linear. This applies as well to the temp gauge. Engineers figured out it was easier on the customers psyche if the gauges read at the same spot in the "normal range" over a set sensor input range. This would keep obsessive-compulsive customers from having heart failure if the oil pressure needle dropped to the "O" in normal vs the "R" after a drive on a hot day.

Temp is the same thing, there is about a 15 degree F sweet spot where the temp reads at the same spot on the gauge. Once again if the gauge fluctuates too much, customers worry and bothered us at the dealerships over non existant problems.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rodbuckler:
There is no way I would run straight 5W-30 in my '96 4.6L ever again. The engine runs much better under all operating conditions with the oil in the 5W-20 range.

I know my bores or rings are damaged because the Cheveron 10W-30 used by the previous owners wasn't getting the job done (I95 commuter car). Nevertheless, my engine has well over 200K on it and it runs like new on 5W-20. Also, the Lucas UCL must have cleaned up one heck of a mess in the fuel system.


10w30 will NOT damage the rings like that.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rodbuckler:

quote:

Originally posted by BlazerLT:
10w30 will NOT damage the rings like that.

I blame it on the oil selection, the OCI and the operating conditions, not the fact that it was a 10W-30.


Ah, ok, sure as **** sounded like that.
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Ok, then... I've read through the entire thing and still have a question...if that's ok with everyone? ;-)

If you live in a climate that does not get below freezing, why would you use a 5wXX (or 10wXX) oil at all? Why not just use a straight 20w in winter (what's the lowest temp it can pour at?) and a 30 or 40 or 50w in summer?
 
It would depend on your driving habits. If you're a highway driver (primarily), with events over a certain duration, then there is not nearly as much benefit of a multivisc or lower visc oil over a straight weight or higher visc oil.

Look at the various visc below:

Exxon Superflo


SAE Grade 20W-50 30 40
API Service SL SL SL
Viscosity
cSt at 40°C 162 100 140
cSt at 100°C 18.1 11.5 15.0
CCS, cP 8200 @ -15 °C - -
Viscosity Index 124 107 105
Flash Point, °C (°F), ASTM D 92 240 (464) 234 (453) 245 (473)
Pour Point, °C (°F ) -21 (-6) -21 (-6) -18 (0)
Gravity, API 27.4 27.0 27.8
Energy Conserving No No No

Now compare the 100C viscs ..then compare the 40C viscs (104F - probably the hottest you might see for a few days). Note the spread as it widens at the lower temp. This gets worse the colder you go.

Now look at this:

Exxon Superflo



SAE Grade 5W-20 5W-30 10W-30 10W-40
API Service SM SM SM SL
Viscosity
cSt at 40°C 47.0 62 71 94
cSt at 100°C 8.3 10.5 10.6 14.1
CCS, cP 5180@ -30 °C 5500@ -30 °C 6300@ -25 °C 6400 @ -25 °C
Viscosity Index 153 159 137 147
Flash Point, °C (°F), ASTM D 92 200 (392) 200 (392) 200 (392) 226 (439)
Pour Point, °C (°F ) -39(-38) --39(-38) -36 (-33) -33 (-27)
Gravity, API 33.6 33 29.2 30.0
Energy Conserving Yes Yes Yes No

See the likeness of the high end visc spec with the straight weights. Note the differences in the 40C visc.

Do you see any reason to pump anything higher then the 100C spec oil at any time in your engine? If you see this ..then would it make any sense to pump anything heavier then you had to under any circumstances??
 
I lived in Singapore - humid & hot climate and been running schaeffer 5w-20 oil on my vtec engine with no problems at all. Can feel the sommothness of engine and quietness.
 
I have a 1990 M5 with the s38b36 engine. It has always (as far as my records can tell) used and been recommended to use synthetic. Previous owners have used 15w50 m1, 15w40 syntec and other. Went to my inde to get oil changed and they put in the standard BMW recommended 5w30 syn. I understand it's a think 30 (almost 40), but was wondering if there would be any harm in adding 15w40 Royal Purple when topping off. I've only had the car a few weeks and just 2 since the oil changed and haven't checked yet to see what get used. Daily driver 25 mi each way to work. Not sure if singapore has same climate as me, but sounds like it...
 
You won't suffer any harm, Andy.

You might want to post your own "What works with the s38b36 BMW M5 engine?" thread. You'll get a mix of "use what the manual says" rhetorical responses (not to necessarily be under rated) and, maybe, a few that own one.
dunno.gif
 
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