5w-20 in an engine that specs 5w-30

[oggb]

So, I bought a beater car and it specs 5w-30. Trouble is, it gets driven on very short trips (less than 3 miles) and the coolant rarely gets to operating temp - much less the oil.

I went to Wally World, bought Mobil Super 5000 5w-20, and plan to change the oil in this car to that oil tomorrow. I figure since the oil isn't getting up to operating temp I might as well give it the thinnest economically feasible oil I can.

Then again, there's really very little difference between 5w-30 and 5w-20 when cold, especially at summertime temps. Who knows - maybe I'll see a magical MPG increase or something. I doubt it, but I've never even thought of using 5w-20 in anything else (hate the stuff) but figured I'd give it a shot in this situation.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Use xW20 without worrying, I'm using xW20 in my '00 E430, for 3 years, that specs M1 0W40 or at least ACEA A3/B3 with HTHS 3.5 or higher. I even went to Vegas in summer with xW20 in the engine when ambient temp was more than 120F at Death Valley.

 

[oggb]

I figure thinner oil makes sense for this particular application - whether or not it makes a difference is another story.

What made you decide to use Xw-20 in that car? Personal experiment? Have you noticed any benefits to the thinner oil?

 

[chubbs1]

It is a good idea but it will still need to be changed on a fairly regular (time interval) basis. You don't want to get "cold" sludge!

 

[Oregoonian]

I would suggest that you do a 30 to 50 mile (highway) round trip twice a month....to get the oil up to operating temps. This would benifit your oil and your vehicle.

Mobil Super 5000 (5w20) should work great (if you do the above)....with an OCI of 3000 miles or 6 months.
____________________________________________
03' Ford Focus (2.3 Duratec PZEV) / 98 K
PP 5w20 / Purolator PureOne / OCI: 7500 +/-

 

[tommygunn]

Why not the Mobil Super 5W-30....? Or was it out of stock?

Seems that way at my local WM too....usually hella abundance of 5W-20.....and I been "pondering" the same thought, if there's really any detrimental affects running a 5W-20 vs. a 5W-30......

 

[HTSS_TR]

I had 2 cases of PP 5W20 laying around in the garage for a couple years, the E430 engine was making ticking noise at all RPM's and was fairly loud at idle since mid-late 2007, I decided to try PP 5W20 in it in early 2008, especially after reading Dr Hass using 2 grades thinner in his exotics. Within few hundred miles the engine was quiet down and keep improve as the mile pile up. Before PP 5W20 I didn't know the fan was running when I was at red-light even the fan was set at 3 out of 6-7 speed, With xW20 I can hear the fan running even when it was set at lowest speed at 1.

That summer I went to Vegas and not only the engine was much quieter at all RPM's but the engine rev'ed much more smooth and the bonus was MPG increased by about 6-8% for the trip. I went to Vegas few times a year, with M1 0W40 the MPG was 23-24.5 MPG at average speed of 85-90 MPH, with PP 5W20 the MPG was 26.5 with similar speed. The EPA is 17 City and 24 Highway.

As far as I know, there is no negative with xW20 in my particular E430 engine, not even any oil consumption with thinner oil. I didn't do any UOA with either M1 0W40 or PP 5W20, M1 0W20 and Synpower 5W20 that had been used in this car. I have 2 cases PU 5W20 and 0W20 + 5W20 of other brands. I truly believe xW20 SM and SN is very stout oil and can be used in most engines.

 

[badnews]

Don't do it.
Just because some can get by for some time doesn't mean you should do it.
More than a few folks that are using 5w20 are reporting oil burning issues in Jeep Wranglers .

Most vehicles in the US that spec a 20 weight oil aren't spec'd for a 20 weight oil in Europe- they require a 30 weight oil.

Only a few here on this board seem enthralled with a 20 weight oil .
They use all kinds of not valid reasons
Small oil passages ( like US vehicles have smaller passages than the same vehicle sold in Europe)

better mileage - lets be real
For long engine life stay with a 30 weight oil

 

[MonumentOiler]

Beater = 5w-30 Supertech changed when it suits you at close to a reasonable interval.

 

[Trav]

Quote:
Most vehicles in the US that spec a 20 weight oil aren't spec'd for a 20 weight oil in Europe- they require a 30 weight oil.

Only a few here on this board seem enthralled with a 20 weight oil .
They use all kinds of not valid reasons
Small oil passages ( like US vehicles have smaller passages than the same vehicle sold in Europe)



That's a fact! Some even spec 5w-40, 15w-40 and 10w-40 for some engines in Europe that are spec'd for 5w-20 or 5w-30 in the U.S.
Smaller drain back holes for 5w-20 spec engines is as you say totally false.

IMO 0w-20 and 5w-20 are 100% CAFE driven specs and nothing more or less.

Check out RX8 forums about running OEM spec 5w-20, lots of owners want a class action suit against Mazda because the stuff just doesn't protect the engine and the engines are suffering from some sort of lubrication failure.
In the rest of the world (not sure about Canada) 10w-40 is spec and failures of this nature are not common at all.

 

[Darkfire]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Check out RX8 forums about running OEM spec 5w-20, lots of owners want a class action suit against Mazda because the stuff just doesn't protect the engine and the engines are suffering from some sort of lubrication failure.

Here's the link in case anyone can't find it:

http://forums.automotive.com/70/6210886/mazda/mazda-rx-8s-engine-failure-problem/index.html

 

[hate2work]

You won't see any mileage difference with the 20 weight oil. I would take it back and exchange it for some 30 weight oil.

 

[D189379]

Originally Posted By: badnews
Most vehicles in the US that spec a 20 weight oil aren't spec'd for a 20 weight oil in Europe- they require a 30 weight oil.



What makes you so sure that Europe isn't using the wrong oil grades?

 

[D189379]

Originally Posted By: Darkfire
Originally Posted By: Trav
Check out RX8 forums about running OEM spec 5w-20, lots of owners want a class action suit against Mazda because the stuff just doesn't protect the engine and the engines are suffering from some sort of lubrication failure.

Here's the link in case anyone can't find it:

http://forums.automotive.com/70/6210886/mazda/mazda-rx-8s-engine-failure-problem/index.html


Mazdas rotary engines have always been oil-burning pieces of garbage. They weren't any better in the 80's with thicker oil. That's a terrible conclusion to draw.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: badnews
Don't do it.
Just because some can get by for some time doesn't mean you should do it.
More than a few folks that are using 5w20 are reporting oil burning issues in Jeep Wranglers .

Most vehicles in the US that spec a 20 weight oil aren't spec'd for a 20 weight oil in Europe- they require a 30 weight oil.

Only a few here on this board seem enthralled with a 20 weight oil .
They use all kinds of not valid reasons
Small oil passages ( like US vehicles have smaller passages than the same vehicle sold in Europe)

better mileage - lets be real
For long engine life stay with a 30 weight oil


6th thread of the day I've read and finally some common sense. Thank you badnews!

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: D189379
Originally Posted By: badnews
Most vehicles in the US that spec a 20 weight oil aren't spec'd for a 20 weight oil in Europe- they require a 30 weight oil.



What makes you so sure that Europe isn't using the wrong oil grades?


Cause it's listed in their manuals.

 

[JOD]

Obviously, a lot of responders on this thread really struggle with reading comprehension. A 30W oil is not going to 'protect your engine better'?? You oil is 'too thick' as it is, even if you're using a 10W oil... People seem to be completely ignoring the relationship between viscosity and temperature. If you're never getting the oil up to temperature, you're to be best off using the thinnest oil possible. It will at least be closer to the correct operating viscosity, and it'll get closer to operating temps than a thicker oil (since it heats up more quickly).

I do agree with the suggestion to try and actually take it for a drive every now and then.

As far as the mention of the RX8, what on earth does a oil weight for a rotary engine have to do with a guy with a regular engine who drives it 3 miles at a time?

 

[D189379]

Originally Posted By: JOD
Obviously, a lot of responders on this thread really struggle with reading comprehension. A 30W oil is not going to 'protect your engine better'?? You oil is 'too thick' as it is, even if you're using a 10W oil... People seem to be completely ignoring the relationship between viscosity and temperature. If you're never getting the oil up to temperature, you're to be best off using the thinnest oil possible. It will at least be closer to the correct operating viscosity, and it'll get closer to operating temps than a thicker oil (since it heats up more quickly).



People don't read anything on this site anymore. Facts? Get that garbage out of here!!

I had this car once that ran 30 weight oil and it ran fine so 30 weight for all, I say!!

 

[D189379]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: D189379
Originally Posted By: badnews
Most vehicles in the US that spec a 20 weight oil aren't spec'd for a 20 weight oil in Europe- they require a 30 weight oil.



What makes you so sure that Europe isn't using the wrong oil grades?


Cause it's listed in their manuals.


But my manual says 20 weight!!!!

 

[oggb]

Originally Posted By: JOD
People seem to be completely ignoring the relationship between viscosity and temperature...


That was what I was wondering - and hope to find out (since I changed the oil this evening to Mobil Super 5w-20). Since the oil rarely if EVER reaches operating temp (I have a car I can drive long distances if I need to) I figure I may as well just go with the thinnest oil I possibly can. Guess we'll find out if it's worth it or not.