30W is 30W for a generator right....

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Originally Posted By: chefwong
The correct experiment would have to be ambient temperatures of at least 80F +.....


The reality is I don't get power outage. Maybe a 4 hr brownout a year.
This is more for power outages during *water* issues. Did not get power put last year during Irene. We still was pumping water for hrs....but we had electricity so I was using sump pumps and utility pumps.

We lost power during Sandy. I was carry 5 gallon buckets of water (filled to about 4 1/2 gallons) manually moving out for almost 6-7 hrs nonstop. I thought I was going to have a heart attack at the rapid pace in which we could not stop...

I think I gensets might see more usage just due to me using it to get it magnetized...that me needing to use it.


According to the available ligature for my Generac ix2000 the armature consist of 16 permanent magnets.

I interpit this to mean that there is no need to run this inverter gen-set on a regular basis to maintain residual magnetism within the armature.

While I have not seen equal ligature for inverter gen-sets from other manufacturers, since these seem to be clones of the gen-sets made by Honda and Yamaha, it is highly likely that inverter gen-sets made by others than Generac in general also have permanent magnets in the armature and therefore do not require regular running to maintain the residual magnetism. Of course to be sure you should consult ligature for you particular unit.

Also, after running my inverter gen-set with sta-bil in the gas, and running the carb dry, I drained the carb bowl, and then sprayed WD-40 on the air passageways of the carb including the small hole for the idle air.

I also changed the oil and put a good oil in it, and covered it in a clear plastic bag to keep dust out.

I figure with the permanent magnets in the armature, fresh good quality oil in he crank, drained carb with WD-40 sprayed on the air passageways, a plastic bag covering it to keep out dust, and stored in a cellar room that does not get below freezing in the winter, I should be able to let it sit for a couple of years if not needed, and still have it be reliable.
 
Jim -

I don't have any issues with storage of OPE sofar...last run of use get's a mix of Startron in the gas mix....drain the tank, and carb. Come season time, check oil, gas it up, and she fires back up on the 1st pull.

With that said, I am reading similar * storage procedures* of other users with the EU2K and they have pesky carb issues.

I've yet to gas mine up yet. Got one in December, picked up another one last week. One standard, one companion..

And yes Jim, even it's not generaing power, one could just re-engergize the generator. With the frequency of storms we've gotten over the last 2 years, while the thought of similar storage procedure crossed my mind, I would rather errrrr on the proactive side and just fire it up more often than not just to make sure she's running right.

After Irene, I did all the homework. Decided on the pair of EU and then nixed the idea....did not want the space it would take up, and figured how often would it happen again. Well.....fast forward to this seasons storm, where literally at times I felt I may get a heart attack....imagine scooping and carrying 4.5 gallon buckets of water for 6-7 hrs straight, with maybe a 10 minute break every 2 hrs.
 
Along with treating the carburetor (and I really think spraying liberally with WD-40 is a good way to prevent problems, especially if you get it down the idle air hole) I also spray Sta-Bil spray foaming oil treatment into the sparkplug hole and pull the rope a few times with a clean rag over the sparkplug hole. Put the sparkplug back in and pull the rope a few times and stop pulling on a compression stroke so the valves are closed. Closed valves are easier on the valve springs, and closed valves will not allow moisture from air to condense in the cylinder.

The down side is that the oil treatment of the cylinder will build up on the sparkplug and after burning off several treatments the sparkplug may have to be replaced.

If I did not have the Sta-Bil spray foaming oil for treating the cylinder, I would spray some of the WD-40 into the cylinder.

I have never seen any metal with a coating of WD-40 rust.


As for oil in my generators, I chose GC because in the winter it flows easy allowing easy pull starts with the engine turning fast when the rope is pulled. And in the summer GC holds up well in hot temperatures. Rotella T6, and Mobil TDT, would also be a good choice. And Mobil 15W-50 would probably be one of the best oils for very hot days like 95 F or greater.
 
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