Which oil is good for my Commercial Kohler Command 23hp engine? I have API specs

OK, Thanks everyone. So..... I can stick with what I am using. This mower runs for about 250 hours per year. I change the oil at 90-100 hrs of use. Would I be better of using the Rotella 10w30 than the Walmart 10w30 synthetic? I am looking to do the best I can for these engines without getting into the exotic oils for $8+ per quart. Thanks again. BTW, I too have plenty of T6 5w40 on hand for a truck, but that is not the 10w30 the manual calls for.
 
I have a 16HP Kohler Command single-hole from 2001 that ran 10w-30 for the first 850 hours of its life. I now run Rotella T5 15w-40 in it, along with a power washer and walk-behind mower. Currently has ~910 hours on it and doesn't leak a drop, oil changes every other season.

With OPE, type of oil is really not the issue, keeping it clean and full is. Run whatever gives you the warm fuzzies.
 
OK, Thanks everyone. So..... I can stick with what I am using. This mower runs for about 250 hours per year. I change the oil at 90-100 hrs of use. Would I be better of using the Rotella 10w30 than the Walmart 10w30 synthetic? I am looking to do the best I can for these engines without getting into the exotic oils for $8+ per quart. Thanks again. BTW, I too have plenty of T6 5w40 on hand for a truck, but that is not the 10w30 the manual calls for.
Rotella 15-40 or 10-30 will both be fine. Have 1600 hours on a 2000 model Kawasaki FH500V and it spent most of that time on Rotella 15-40, I have ran M1 15-50 in it once(I think) and M1 Euro 0-40 in it a couple of times, but it mostly get 15-40.
 
The Kohler manual calls for "SG, SH, SJ or higher" 10w30
The oil I was using is a Walmart synthetic 10w30 with API service SP. But......it sounds like some people on the lawn equipment site do not think that this type of oil is ok. I get plenty of people saying I need something else with more zinc in it. Some people even use zinc additives. I also have a diesel truck and some people say to use Rotella. Can someone help clear this up for me? Thanks.

For ease of use sake why not run the same oil you run in your truck? I run 5w40 HDEO in my riding mower because I blow snow in the winter with it. Otherwise I would be using 15w40, the same oil I use in my Cummins. The 5w40 just makes it easier for starting in the winter.

FWIW, you can use the 10w30 you mentioned, it won't hurt anything either...

Just my $0.02
 
OK, I feel much better about the 750 hours I have put on this engine with 10w30 from Wally World. The previous engine went 3300 hours. So, now please don't get mad at this next "beating a dead horse" question. What is my better choice, the Rotella 10w30 or the Wally World 10w30 car synthetic? I only am pushing this because when I had spoken with Exmark about something unrelated, they hydros, they also mentioned that I should not be running "automobile" oil in the engine and should be using an air cooled small engine oil. Thanks again folks.
 
OK, I feel much better about the 750 hours I have put on this engine with 10w30 from Wally World. The previous engine went 3300 hours. So, now please don't get mad at this next "beating a dead horse" question. What is my better choice, the Rotella 10w30 or the Wally World 10w30 car synthetic? I only am pushing this because when I had spoken with Exmark about something unrelated, they hydros, they also mentioned that I should not be running "automobile" oil in the engine and should be using an air cooled small engine oil. Thanks again folks.
Auto oil or no, you'll be fine. Rule number one for long ope life - have oil in it. Rule number 2 - keep it clean. To be fair, there are benefits to running a heavier oil (40 or 50 grades) but typically those who realize the benefits are putting mega hours and/or run in extreme conditions - for example there's a member here who burned several water pump engines up in Florida heat before wising up and going to a heavier oil. Myself, I would prefer an HDEO to an auto oil, but only because I prefer a higher HT/HS..

Side note - some manufacturers are starting to recommend 40 or 50 grade oils (like Kawasaki) as it tends to reduce oil consumption in their engines and I believe reduce some failures.
 
Auto oil or no, you'll be fine. Rule number one for long ope life - have oil in it. Rule number 2 - keep it clean. To be fair, there are benefits to running a heavier oil (40 or 50 grades) but typically those who realize the benefits are putting mega hours and/or run in extreme conditions - for example there's a member here who burned several water pump engines up in Florida heat before wising up and going to a heavier oil. Myself, I would prefer an HDEO to an auto oil, but only because I prefer a higher HT/HS..

Side note - some manufacturers are starting to recommend 40 or 50 grade oils (like Kawasaki) as it tends to reduce oil consumption in their engines and I believe reduce some failures.
100%. A lot of the newer Kawasakis, although great engines otherwise, tend to burn a decent amount of oil, and the recommendations were changed to curb consumption and failures within warranty.
 
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