20w-50 in 2010 Outback 2.5

[The Critic]

20W50 seems excessive, especially with the upcoming winter.

 

[The Critic]

Anything above freezing is fine for a 20W winter rating.

But it doesn't make it ideal.

 

[kschachn]

Like I said, anywhere above freezing is fine for an oil with a 20W winter rating. “Ideal” is quite subjective.

 

[The Critic]

Like I said, anywhere above freezing is fine for an oil with a 20W winter rating. “Ideal” is quite subjective.

Ideal from a fuel economy standpoint.

I'm not sure that there's much to gain from using a 20W50 over say, a 5W30 in this application. Seems to be a big waste of fuel, IMO.

 

[kschachn]

Yeah well considering the OP’s stated concern was his engine exploding, that’s not going to happen unless the starting temperature is below the pumpability limit of the oil. It’s not going to explode due to using a 50-grade oil.

 

[wyo_00_]

Yeah well considering the OP’s stated concern was his engine exploding, that’s not going to happen unless the starting temperature is below the pumpability limit of the oil. It’s not going to explode due to using a 50-grade oil.

The other concern is the wear and tear from the oil not properly lubricating the engine fast enough. A few of the other mechanics I talked to said that the 20w50 on cold startups will cause damage.

 

[kschachn]

The other concern is the wear and tear from the oil not properly lubricating the engine fast enough. A few of the other mechanics I talked to said that the 20w50 on cold startups will cause damage.

No. No concern there at all. Cold start performance is dictated by the winter rating, and as noted above freezing is fine. All those “other mechanics” that are frequently quoted here don’t understand how lubrication happens in an engine.

Film thickness prevents wear and tear, not causes it.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

Since you are potentially paranoid about it, just drain it out and refill with 5w30 and be done with it. Or go back to the mechanic and have him do it

 

[SubLGT]

.... I have used synthetic 5w-30 forever and just now started to notice that the oil was burning a bit.

The 20w-50 seemed like overkill to me.

Split the difference and use M1 0w-40 year round.

 

[Accent Abuser]

My guess is you will be getting a check engine light with variable valve timing codes very soon.

Doubtful. Variable valve timing does not work like that and when correctly designed all it needs is oil to act as a hydraulic fluid, the ECU can see what the camshaft position is and open and close the VVT solenoid to get it where it wants to be. I've checked my Accent on the snap on scan tool we have at work and all of the values are what would be expected even running 15w50.

To answer OPs original question there is no reason 20w50 would be unsuitable in that engine during the summer months unless you're trying to squeeze every last fraction of a percentage out of your gas mileage.

 

[Brian123]

Yes, I'm in Wyoming. I really do not drive very far at all, maybe 50 miles a week with the occasional trip to Colorado on the weekends.

I honestly do not know if a thicker oil is needed. I have used synthetic 5w-30 forever and just now started to notice that the oil was burning a bit.

The 20w-50 seemed like overkill to me.

Time to do your own oil changes!

 

[aquariuscsm]

Did you get a 20W50 dino or synth?

 

[wyo_00_]

Is this a trustworthy local guy? If so, it might be worth accepting what he says.
Is 20w50 "allowed" in the manual?
Feel very free to ask him questions. The jump from 5w30 to 20w50 is a bit wide with a lot of common grades in between..

Did you get a 20W50 dino or synth?

conventional

 

[FZ1]

You don't want slow drainback from the head(s) on a horizontally opposed engine that is known for flooding its spark plug tubes.

Plus - less oil cooling as another deficit to a 20w50.

OP will be OK till late Fall. It's right around the corner.

This^^^^^^^^^^^^. + It's just, too, thick. Change it out when the temp starts dropping this Fall.

 

[Vermess]

Been running n/a ej's for the past 7 years. Never needed to run anything but 5-30 9n them. Some have over 300k miles.

Step 1: throw the whole "mechanic" in the thrash bin.

Step 2: pick up a 14mm or 17mm wrench, oil drain pan, filter wrench at your local WalMart. While you're there get a 7317 oil filter and 5-30 oil and do your own oil changes.

Step 3: repeat step 1.

 

[Silver]

I think your mechanic is a moron, but the engine will be fine based on the manual's allowance of it. Although that sure is a wide range.

 

[kschachn]

I think your mechanic is a moron, but the engine will be fine based on the manual's allowance of it. Although that sure is a wide range.

It will also be fine based upon the fact that no engine is damaged by a higher grade oil than what’s listed in the owners manual. You can damage it with a lower grade however. The only way the mechanic is a moron is if he uses an oil with a winter rating that is inappropriate for the expected starting conditions.

 

[kschachn]

Been running n/a ej's for the past 7 years. Never needed to run anything but 5-30 9n them. Some have over 300k miles.

Step 1: throw the whole "mechanic" in the thrash bin.

Step 2: pick up a 14mm or 17mm wrench, oil drain pan, filter wrench at your local WalMart. While you're there get a 7317 oil filter and 5-30 oil and do your own oil changes.

Step 3: repeat step 1.

This is a waste. Again, as long as the winter rating is appropriate for the expected starting conditions there is no reason on earth to change that oil unless your only concern is a slight reduction in fuel economy.

 

[Vermess]

This is a waste. Again, as long as the winter rating is appropriate for the expected starting conditions there is no reason on earth to change that oil unless your only concern is a slight reduction in fuel economy.

I'll agree to disagree. If this was a regular V or inline engine, I'd have the same view as you.

Let's not forget this is a boxer, worse a boobaru. Oil drain back sucks as it is. When his plug tubes get full of oil....that's another thread.

Third, he has had his head gaskets replaced and this is a high mileage engine. That block moves like crazy. Unless you have built a few of these, torqued everything down, measure, torque the heads down, measure bearing clearance, then see that block move like crazy.....don't be so sure about that 20-50.

Fact of the matter is, I run a few of these things in NH for the past 7 years. I've built some DOHC engines to over 1k hp. Once again, these engines move....and they move bad....even worse with his fully open deck vs a semi closed deck.

T/S....this is simple. Run the oil in there ignoring the warnings that most people are sayingand take a chance, save that 50 bucks......because they read a manual....

Or have a piece of mind and run the 5-30 in there that has served you well for the last 200k.

Good thread, curious on how this turns out.

 

[Silver]

It will also be fine based upon the fact that no engine is damaged by a higher grade oil than what’s listed in the owners manual. You can damage it with a lower grade however. The only way the mechanic is a moron is if he uses an oil with a winter rating that is inappropriate for the expected starting conditions.

Hypothetically, what if a 75w oil was used? 150W?