2023 cbr1000rr

Also another thing is. I live in Florida where it's always hot.
I think your bike has an oil-coolant heat exchanger for oil cooling. Keep an eye on your coolant temperatures. If they become elevated, your oil temperature will be getting up there as well. Adding an aftermarket oil-air cooler would help keep the oil from getting too hot and thin, but it's probably not necessary if you use a good 10W-40. Mobil 1 4T or Amsoil 10W-40 are some nice thick shear-stable oils.

I'm running the factory filter. Shouldn't that be good enough? Or should I go aftermarket?
The filter is not the issue unless there's a fitment/sealing problem with it. OEM is usually the safest bet for efficiency and fitment.

A less restrictive filter like a K&N could result in less unfiltered air leaking in through the airbox since it would result in a lot less vacuum pressure in the airbox, but it would best to stick with the higher-efficiency OEM filter if you can fix the airbox leak.
 
I think your bike has an oil-coolant heat exchanger for oil cooling. Keep an eye on your coolant temperatures. If they become elevated, your oil temperature will be getting up there as well. Adding an aftermarket oil-air cooler would help keep the oil from getting too hot and thin, but it's probably not necessary if you use a good 10W-40. Mobil 1 4T or Amsoil 10W-40 are some nice thick shear-stable oils.


The filter is not the issue unless there's a fitment/sealing problem with it. OEM is usually the safest bet for efficiency and fitment.

A less restrictive filter like a K&N could result in less unfiltered air leaking in through the airbox since it would result in a lot less vacuum pressure in the airbox, but it would best to stick with the higher-efficiency OEM filter if you can fix the airbox leak.
Would the honda HP4 synthetic blend be sufficient? Or should I go with amsoil or another brand?
 
Would the honda HP4 synthetic blend be sufficient? Or should I go with amsoil or another brand?
The Honda oil you've been using has sheared a lot. In the absence of spec sheets or UOA data, I'd assume that the Honda 10W-40 would end up pretty thin as well.

I'd go with an oil that has a spec sheet available that shows a fairly high viscosity and HTHS for a 10W-40, and one that has low viscosity index which usually indicates a more shear stable oil. The two oils I mentioned would both fit the bill, but I'm sure you could find others.
 
The Honda oil you've been using has sheared a lot. In the absence of spec sheets or UOA data, I'd assume that the Honda 10W-40 would end up pretty thin as well.

I'd go with an oil that has a spec sheet available that shows a fairly high viscosity and HTHS for a 10W-40, and one that has low viscosity index which usually indicates a more shear stable oil. The two oils I mentioned would both fit the bill, but I'm sure you could find others.
Ok. Thank you so much for the info. I've definitely learned a lot on this forum.
 
The oil in a shared sump bike will shear (almost to the maximum), within about 500-700 miles. It shears very little after that. So changing the oil every 1500 miles has limited value. I am a believer in running oil that is the grade the engineers (they are pretty smart), designed it to run on. They also know the oil will shear a grade quickly. That being said, and because we know the oil will shear a grade I am a fan of using any of the synthetic 5W40 ( Rotella Mobil 1 turbo diesel etc. ),oils. The 5 weight provides EXCELLENT start up protection and will be a 30 weight very quickly.
 
Yes I am running HP4S 10w30. Good read on those quotes. Thank you

You're welcome...

Honda specifies 30 over a 40 because it will:

1)increase HP at the rear wheel
2)quicken the throttle response coming out of the corners...
3)decrease over all operating temps...
4)increase the oil flow at the critical bearings...

Any one of 30 grade 100% synthetic motorcycle specific oils will meet
and exceed both your racing and mileage expectations...

22_977e708d-0716-400d-8da3-251f4aa7ceca_800x.jpg

10W30_motorcycle.jpg

shell-advance-ax7-4t-10w-30-api-sm-synthetic-technology-motorbike-engine-oil.jpg

61NYVRk2QNL.jpg


Quote Gmtech94 about the riggers of endurance racing...

"When I raced we were sponsored by an oil company and helped with the
research of their product .The thought at the time was to run 20w50
race oil to provide for the best lubrication under racing conditions
hence no oil related failures . After many races and a lot of real
data research the conclusion was in this case to run a 10w30 oil as it
provided better lubrication and less engine wear over a long period of
time ,remember endurance racing in 24 and 30 hour races . Although we
never had an engine failure due to oil properties we did have a lot of
feedback on engine wear as well as transmission and clutch wear . I
have to say we did abuse these bikes on occasion with spinning the
back wheel to turn the bike as well as the occasional fall .The
ignition was a weak link but I could change out the pulsers in about
17 seconds once the bike was in the pits . In conclusion 10w30 ran
cooler and did not break down as much as the thicker oils did."

Aluminum most commonly presents as a wear metal in used oil analysis
results, but in some instances it could also be a contaminant or
additive. In this video Mr.LE looks at the possible sources of Aluminum in
your used oil analysis results to assist you with troubleshooting.

 
This was in Germany in 1993, I only saw it posted in the dealer service dept. I had the bike and the blown engine along with many others so there was something to it.
 
As you can see 10w30 was at the bottom of the list.

Granted I do see but Honda's oil recommendations are not listed in anyway shape or form of their importance because the list only serves as a guide given the out side air temperature...
 
What is the name of the dealer???
That was Bikers Point, they and a couple of others in the area went out of business more than 20 years ago. This was a Germany only thing.
Granted I do see but Honda's oil recommendations are not listed in anyway shape or form of their importance because the list only serves as a guide given the out side air temperature...
Right but it was only good for 90f max, we even have temps that high in Germany in the summer, the OP is in Florida. It could be argued that oil back then was not as good but it was still SG rated, the oil he posted the UOA of is looking like a xw20 at 100c (6.9 to gear box unit.
 
That was Bikers Point, they and a couple of others in the area went out of business more than 20 years ago. This was a Germany only thing.

Right but it was only good for 90f max, we even have temps that high in Germany in the summer, the OP is in Florida. It could be argued that oil back then was not as good but it was still SG rated, the oil he posted the UOA of is looking like a xw20 at 100c (6.9 to gear box unit.
Yeah, that Honda oil is pathetic. It looks more like an oil that would go in a Civic.
 
Mobil 1 have a FS 10w40 in the US.

I have never used (& stayed away from) 10w30. Full synthetic 10w50 has been the one in my RR8 since new; other than once flirting with motul 300v 10w40 which I didn't like.
What you need to take into account is the viscocity after 2,4 or even 8000 miles.
BTW my OCI on my honda is 4k
 
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