2019 Nissan Sentra Manual Transmission issue

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Jan 16, 2021
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I have a 2019 Nissan Sentra S 6spd manual I have owned since 29 miles and it now has 146k.
I have maintained the car per the book in terms of preventative maintenance. Besides
I changed the manual transmission fluid about every 50k or so miles with a nissan MTF TL/JR like the manual says.
I have used redline MTL, Motul 75w80 Motylgear, triax 75w80, and now Nissan MTF 75w85.

I noticed that it was getting towards the end of what I was toward the end of needing to change the triax and towards the end of my 1hr 15 min commute it would grind second no matter what I did. So I tried changing the oil to the Nissan MTF because I found it cheap on amazon and it helped, but did not get any better. So I took my car to AAMCO and they inspected/test drove my car and said that I needed a clutch. So a few days later they showed me my old clutch that I was a hair above the rivet and my throw out bearing was wore out. Shifting in my car is a lot better since the original clutch had like 145k miles and some change on it, but I still have the same problem.

If I am driving for an hour or so and in traffic no matter what I do 2nd gear begins to grind. But, before that everything else is normal and I have no issue driving in any other gear or reverse. The clutch is much smoother and I don't feel like the clutch is the issue, but I have driven a car with bad synchros before. It has usually been every time in the gear or causes it to pop out unless you double clutch it. But, I have never seen a problem like this before. I tried going a little thicker with the nissan fluid from the Motyl gear 75w80. Its just weird that it takes so long to act up, but when you talk to the trans place they say there is no problems.
 
I’ve owned several manual transmission vehicles including my current ECHO and I’ve never seen a grinding problem that was caused by a worn clutch. That’s always resulted in slipping under high load. Also if you’ve tried several fluids and that hasn’t helped them it’s not the fluid.

At that low of miles I’d be surprised if the synchros were worn. You need to take the vehicle to a shop that knows what they are doing and get a proper diagnosis.
 
worn piston seals on the slave cylinder...as it warms, the fluid leaks more and more. Here is a couple tests you can run.

Get it nice and warm so that it "grinds" - push in the clutch for a long time, try to shift and see if it gets worse the longer you hold it. Or same thing, but keep it in gear on level ground and see if it starts to creep after a while.
 
worn piston seals on the slave cylinder...as it warms, the fluid leaks more and more. Here is a couple tests you can run.

Get it nice and warm so that it "grinds" - push in the clutch for a long time, try to shift and see if it gets worse the longer you hold it. Or same thing, but keep it in gear on level ground and see if it starts to creep after a while.
Bingo.

Or "double" clutch. Press the clutch, take it out of gear, release the clutch. Press the clutch, put it in gear, release the clutch.
 
worn piston seals on the slave cylinder...as it warms, the fluid leaks more and more. Here is a couple tests you can run.

Get it nice and warm so that it "grinds" - push in the clutch for a long time, try to shift and see if it gets worse the longer you hold it. Or same thing, but keep it in gear on level ground and see if it starts to creep after a while.
The clutch kit they installed includes the slave cylinder as its part of an assembly directly attached to the throwout bearing. So the clutch slave cylinder was replaced and they bled the system with fresh fluid.
 
That’s all I can think of

They did show my my original clutch after 146k I was about to start having the rivet against my flywheel
 
If you can shift without the clutch and problem isn't there then look at the input shift (highly unlikely) bearing. If problem is still there then synctros bad for 2nd. You can run high enough rpm that you can always skip 2nd or find someone that can replace that one synchro.
 
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