2016 Pentastar V6 fuel injector removal
- Thread starter i6pwr
- Start date
No it does not, can remove in truck. Would be easier if it was on the bench however
Ok, this I believe is not the new or updated engine, the upper intake overhangs the LH valve cover.
So from what I gather, once the upper is out, then it's the fuel rail on each side holding the injectors?
I searched YT but didn't find a vid that had in-depth removal for this motor.
So from what I gather, once the upper is out, then it's the fuel rail on each side holding the injectors?
I searched YT but didn't find a vid that had in-depth removal for this motor.
If it’s like the Promasters, upper intake comes off then they’re right there. The problem is that the fuel rail screws are big self tapping screws into plastic, and they hold water around them and snap very often when you’re removing them. If that’s the case you can remove the fuel rail / injectors with the lower intake. There’s not much you can do to avoid the fuel rail screws snapping, the damage is already done before you’re there and before you’ve touched anything.
I did see all those silver "timber bolt" looking fasteners and even the upper intake when I had it off for the gasket gave me sweaty palms.
If the screws still look new am I safe or will the heads look new with rusted threads? Last time I was in there all looked very clean but who knows.
I had mine out at least once (in a Wrangler) and didn't have any problem removing the screws
Just did one last week, just the upper manifold comes off and you shouldn't need more than an hour to do it all. Replace the intake gaskets while in there and spark plugs if due or near time to do and check the oil cooler for leaks in the engine valley.
The head on the one I broke looked brand new still, so I’ve yet to touch another injector rail. When I do oil coolers I don’t remove the injectors or fuel rail anymore. I only did it before because the rear 3 injector connectors are not visible on a promaster so unlocking them and disconnecting was a little hassle. Now I don’t remove the connectors or the rail. Guess that’s a benefit of working on them on an almost daily basis. But I’ve never needed to replace injectors for any reason yet.
I also always order 2 upper intake screws. There’s 2 on promasters that hold water around the heads so they round off. If I don’t need them then they go in storage for the next truck. But it’s my understanding that promasters are the only 3.6 that don’t have an engine cover, so water is able to get to the upper intake and pool up where it isn’t on any other 3.6 model? Could be false, that’s just what I heard
Coincidentally this one is a Promaster and does have a cover over the intake. Not the newer 2 piece where there's a square hole in the center, this is a solid cover.
The upper intake looks new on this motor, we had the upper off before and all the screws for the upper intake were silver all the way down.
The injector was reading 230 ohms and threw a code, now it's down to 30-40 with some cleaning, still won't seat correctly if I'm diagnosing it correctly...code is popping up again so we are going to replace it.
OE for sure on these
My only problem I’ve experienced with the upper screws is rusted heads. I’ve always been able to hammer a socket onto them and get them out, I’ve seen guys online say they have to dremel the heads off then extract the screw once the intake is off.
The fuel rail screws are the ones that look fine till you touch them. Just happened to another tech in our shop who was trying to remove them since he doesn’t know how the red locks work on Chryslers. He thought it’d be easier to remove the rail and he snapped a couple of the rail screws.
Thanks, I'll probably pick a few spares up just in case.
I don’t think new ones will fix it if they break. If I remember right, you can drill out the broken piece, but since it’s a large self tapper, a new screw isn’t going to grab and do anything for you. There was room (with the intake on a bench) to use a long m8 or small bolt, with a nut underneath. You’ll just have to know that any fuel rail removal will require working on it on the bench from now on.
I’ve seen other guys put the trucks down for weeks and special order entire lower intake manifolds instead of what I did.
Maybe my way is a bit hack-ish, but I don’t work on customers cars…this is a fleet, so I just want to get them done.
Yeah, I guess I would hope there's enough to grab with vise grips...but I see what you're saying.
Go to Rock Auto and buy the Bosch 62410 (0280158233) for $44. This is the exact same injector as the OE Mopar that cost $100.
I have had these side by side, same flow and spray pattern, the nozzle is the same. This is a very common injector, replace all 6.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5628540&cc=3351805&pt=6224&jsn=480
Similar threads
