2013 Honda CBR250RA

[rincode]

Hey guys, so I've been reading the forums a lot today as well as doing a lot of research via google. I've seen countless "what's the best oil (for xxxx bike)" and as much as I'd hate to post yet another thread similar to those, I'm having a lot of difficulty understanding/following these threads.

As opposed to asking what the best oil is, I have an oil in mind and would just like to confirm that it won't do any damage to my bike. I've seen a lot of hype regarding Shell's Rotella T6 and was wondering if it's ok to use it on the 2013 Honda CBR250RA that I will be getting this spring.

Regardless of why I've chosen Shell's Rotella T6, I've seen a lot of discussion regarding ZDDP, zinc, and phosphorus, and from what I understand, it's bad for cars(?) because it damages the catalytic converter, but it's supposedly good for motorcycles because it reduces wear(?). But afaik, I believe most motorcycles now come with catalytic converters now, don't they? Then there was a discussion regarding roller lifters vs flat tappets. From what I understand, roller lifters have lower pressure metal to metal contact and thus don't require as much additive. So, I guess the real question is: does my 2013 Honda CBR250RA have roller lifters or flat tappets? If it has roller lifters, then I guess I wouldn't need the extra ZDDP? But if it has flat tappets, then I'd need the extra ZDDP, but then it'd conflict with my catalytic converter, right?

Is everything I've stated correct? I have next to no knowledge regarding this stuff, but I'd like to learn as much as I can before I get my bike in April. If you guys could correct/guide/explain/teach me, I'd really appreciate it!

Sorry for the lengthy post! Hope to hear from you all soon!

 

[eddy21]

T6 is 5W-40 is that recommended in your manual?

 

[skyactiv]

I think Honda recommends 10W30 in their newer water cooled motorcycles. A 5W40 can detract some power over a 10W30. That Honda 250 is a very modern engine with roller tappets and a cat.

This Honda press article includes a note to the CBR which shares the same engine with a different tune: http://www.honda.com/newsandviews/article.aspx?id=6898-en

 

[Phishin]

First off, if you are new to bikes and changing oil I have one piece of advice for you....

Get used to changing the oil in your bikes and do it frequently. Your water-cooled Honda bike will love you for it.

Does this bike have an oil filter? What is the oil capacity?

If it was my bike, I'd run basically whatever oil you want (that is 30 or 40 weight oil) but change it OFTEN. On a bike like yours, I'd change the oil every 1000 miles. No more than that. Forget what Honda tells you to run. No way!!

And for the first 1000k miles, I'd change the oil at 50 miles, 200, 500, and then 1000 miles. Then 1000 miles after that...forever.

I have bikes I change every 500 miles....because they are 4 stroke engines that RARELY see rev's lower than 10,000 RPM's.

Since you live in Canada and IF you change your oil every 800-1000 miles, I'd run nearly any oil you want. My first choice would be M1 0w40. And after that, I'd run any 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40, 5w40, or 15w40 you want.

Here would be my personal list of oils to run...kinda in order (I assume you don't want to spend $12-$20/quart for oil). If you don't mind, this list DRASTICALLY changes:

1.) M1 0w40
2.) Rotella T6
3.) PU or PP 5w30/10w30
4.) Any name brand (Delo, Mobil, etc.) 15w40

Also, can you Canadians get some kind of cool 0w30 HDEO as well? Maybe it's Delvac? That would be a GREAT choice as well.

 

[dernp]

I don't live too far from Toronto so I will pass on what I use. I own an /06 Honda Sabre 1100CC. The difference between bikes and cars is that in bikes, the oil serves 3 purposes (also known as shared sump). The oil lubes the engine and transmission, and cools the clutch. It is the transmission that is murder on the oil because it causes the oil to shear. Now I'm not saying that you have to use what I use but I have had huge success using Rotella products. That is Shell Rotella T 15w40 and the synthetic version T6 5w40. Both oils are rated JASO MA which is what is recommended by Honda. You should be easily able to go 5000km between changes on either of above oils.
So my answer is that T6 is an excellent choice and it will serve you well. If you travel to the states, you can buy it in gallon jugs at Walmart for about $21.
I am currently using Amsoil 10w40 but I got this stuff cheap and thought I would try that. Hope this helps.

 

[Analyzer]

Originally Posted By: rincode
Hey guys, so I've been reading the forums a lot today as well as doing a lot of research via google. I've seen countless "what's the best oil (for xxxx bike)" and as much as I'd hate to post yet another thread similar to those, I'm having a lot of difficulty understanding/following these threads.

As opposed to asking what the best oil is, I have an oil in mind and would just like to confirm that it won't do any damage to my bike. I've seen a lot of hype regarding Shell's Rotella T6 and was wondering if it's ok to use it on the 2013 Honda CBR250RA that I will be getting this spring.

Regardless of why I've chosen Shell's Rotella T6, I've seen a lot of discussion regarding ZDDP, zinc, and phosphorus, and from what I understand, it's bad for cars(?) because it damages the catalytic converter, but it's supposedly good for motorcycles because it reduces wear(?). But afaik, I believe most motorcycles now come with catalytic converters now, don't they? Then there was a discussion regarding roller lifters vs flat tappets. From what I understand, roller lifters have lower pressure metal to metal contact and thus don't require as much additive. So, I guess the real question is: does my 2013 Honda CBR250RA have roller lifters or flat tappets? If it has roller lifters, then I guess I wouldn't need the extra ZDDP? But if it has flat tappets, then I'd need the extra ZDDP, but then it'd conflict with my catalytic converter, right?

Is everything I've stated correct? I have next to no knowledge regarding this stuff, but I'd like to learn as much as I can before I get my bike in April. If you guys could correct/guide/explain/teach me, I'd really appreciate it!

Sorry for the lengthy post! Hope to hear from you all soon!


First off, don't worry about the length of the post and welcome to the forums!

The zinc and the phosphorus that you speak of is called in short ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates) which is made by combining phosphoric acid and binding it to zinc (simply put). Car manufacturers have noted that phosphorus has been found attaching to catalytic converters and thus reducing their efficiency at reducing emissions. As a result, starting in 2006 the API decreased the amount of phosphorus allowed in oils in the hopes of increasing the efficiency of the CAT. The drawback to this is that ZDDP is an effective anti-wear compound on metal surfaces, especially with flat tappet cams that receive more friction than roller cams.
Even though your 2013 CBR250 does have a CAT, it's not something you should be generally worried about as the current amount of ZDDP that's allowed in JASO MA rated oils (wet clutch motorcycle specific oils) is higher than the current API ratings of thinner weight oils. Basically, just make sure whatever oil you use is JASO MA rated (which includes both the Rotella 15W40 and Rotella T6 5W40.

If you're buying your CBR new from Honda I would recommend not using the Rotella T6. Your manual states the use of either a 10W30/10W40 oil rated API SG or higher non-energy conserving oil/ a JASO MA rated oil. Given the Rotella T6 is a great oil and is JASO MA rated your manual only states the use of the 10W30/10W40 oil which they say is compatible with a -10 degree C or 15F ambient temperature (with no other oil recommended for colder/hotter conditions). Since T6 is a 5W and not a 10W, you run the risk of having them void the factory warranty for not using the recommended oil. Unless you can get verbal/written approval of the use of the 5W from the dealership/service adviser, I would stick with either the 10W30/40 oil of your choice.

 

[ammolab]

I have used T6 in the Wife's Ninja 250 for about 8 years now. I change annually at about 2000 miles. I like the 5w as half her rides are very short and in cool weather ...seems to hold up to 9000RPM days on the highway as well.

 

[beanoil]

Nice looking small displacement bike. With a 12 month unlimited mileage warranty, I think I'd be inclined to run whatever Ma Honda recommends for the first year, (if your dealer is picky about warranty issues... some are, some aren't) then the oil of your choice based on what the manual recommends. If it's 10w40, Rotella T 15w40 will be fine, if they want a 10w30, Rotella, Valvoline, and Delo all come in 10w30 flavors. Try them and see which one feels good to you. You'll find a wealth of UOA from Sunruh, that may help you make your choice.

 

[Robenstein]

Run what Honda wants you to during the warranty. Afterwards you can deviate and not risk having a factory issue be blamed on you for using "improper oil".

Your choice will work well. Yes its a bit thicker than the OEM specified viscosity, but you have a shared sump bike and it will shear that Rotella down to a 30 weight quickly.

High ZDDP additives are bad for cats, but that is if you are burning oil. A new bike should not be burning oil, so you are fine there.

Another alternative here in the states is "German Castrol", which is SL rated, has good anti wear additives, is not "enery/resource conserving" and hence okay for shared sump applitcations. It can be picked up occasionally on sale at chain stores when Syntec is on sale.

I had a Virago 250 and ran Rotella T in mine and changed it every 2k or when it got hot(mine was air cooled) and went with a 50 weight oil. Worked well. I would run yours 2k miles max since yours is a higher RPM 250 than mine which saw about 7k RPM at highway speeds.

 

[Cujet]

By the way, Honda is coming out with a 300cc version of the CBR250. I suspect it will have a nice bump in power.

Check out the roller rockers! Very nice setup.