Originally Posted By: nickolas84
To put it simply, think why you shouldn't thrash your engine cold. Missmatch of cold engine components may be a small part of it, but the main reason is you don't have enough oil flow. Viscosity is super high, oil pressure jumps to max right of idle, but flow is little to none and this can brake your engine.
Thicker is no match to the extreme forces in the parts that matter like the bearings, so by itself has nothing to offer to lubrication.
Modern oils, even 0W-20 hold up very well in high temperatures and propably can do at least 285F all day.
You don't want to cook your oil to the point of destroying it, but modern oils give you lots of headroom temperature wise.
By the way, all factory oil coolers have a thermostat.
Another point of 'incorrectness' if I might add---not all factory oil coolers have tstats--take my 08 Z06 8.5 qt sump, an oil cooler the size of Nebraska, and NO TSTAT--big mistake on the engineers part---cruising oil temps in all but summer are about 150 degrees
To put it simply, think why you shouldn't thrash your engine cold. Missmatch of cold engine components may be a small part of it, but the main reason is you don't have enough oil flow. Viscosity is super high, oil pressure jumps to max right of idle, but flow is little to none and this can brake your engine.
Thicker is no match to the extreme forces in the parts that matter like the bearings, so by itself has nothing to offer to lubrication.
Modern oils, even 0W-20 hold up very well in high temperatures and propably can do at least 285F all day.
You don't want to cook your oil to the point of destroying it, but modern oils give you lots of headroom temperature wise.
By the way, all factory oil coolers have a thermostat.
Another point of 'incorrectness' if I might add---not all factory oil coolers have tstats--take my 08 Z06 8.5 qt sump, an oil cooler the size of Nebraska, and NO TSTAT--big mistake on the engineers part---cruising oil temps in all but summer are about 150 degrees